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The connector you want is an MS3476(x)14-4S. The original is an MS3475W14-4s that has extra grounding contacts that aren't necessary but will run the cost up. The (x) will be either an L,A, or W. L is a nickel finish, A is a black finish, and W is an OD finish. Search around a bit and you...
If you want an accurate matching plug you should post a picture with your request, preferably one with a ruler alongside the connector. This will eliminate a lot of guesswork.
When I repaired the body ground stud behind the heater controls I opted to use a 1.5" threaded rod rather than a bolt and then put start washers and nuts on both sides rather than just on one side. This means you don't have to take everything apart if your working from either side of the...
Early on I had lots of problems with leaks in this area on my 998. Things that I found were the O ring on the dipstick tube was dry and cracked. The flared ridge on the metal tube had cracked at the ridge, the O ring on the modulator valve was leaking and the bolts on the front of the trans pan...
When you bolt everything into place make sure you use star washers between the metal chassis to insure good electrical bonding. You can put a dab of silicon sealer on them to inhibit rust from forming, the tabs on the washers will bite through any paint and make sure things are well connected.
Your fine with the 6707 grounded to the vehicle as long as the MT-1029 is tied to the same point electrically. The PRC-25/77s are really 12 volt radios deriving their power from the AM-2060 and it's only (other than audio amplification) function is to reduce the input 24v from a military...
I just did this job on a friends HMMWV and there's no good way to push the fuel pump actuator pin back up into the block without removing the mounting plate. The gaskets are readily available and fit 1955 thru 1995 GM engines and only cost a few bucks so bite the bullet and remove the plate. I...
I'm running an ambulance body on my 998 now and never changed the shocks when I dropped the body on. What I found is that the original springs liked a little bit of pre-load and the 1500# body did that just fine. I've had this thing on and offroad and it feels just fine to me.
Just take the truck out and drive it around until it gets hot. If it feels like an elephant just landed in the bed when the fan kicks in it's working! LOL
The coolant filter mounts on the airlift bracket in the right front corner of the engine compartment. It's not difficult to do but I'd suggest you change your fuel pump before doing it because afterwards it's a real PITA.
If your familiar with following electrical schematics and have a multimeter you can trace the circuits through the switch but other than that there's no good way that I know of to test it. Luckily it's not one of the electronic switches.
Mark, be careful with your terminology.
The sensor in the right rear of the block is called the "cold advance sensor" and advanced the IP when the block is cold. You can test it when the block is cold by disconnecting it. You should hear the advance solenoid in the top of the injector pump...
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