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it's not the stress, it's the heat buildup. The GM blocks are notorious for having block failures at the back cylinders because there isn't enough cooling back there, and the metallurgy isn't good enough to deal with the heat buildup. Just because it CAN do 65 mph doesn't mean it's a good idea.

https://www.nsncenter.com/Library/PSMAG/PS_688?PageNumber=9 talks a little about cage bolts for the MTV trucks, there are 2 different lengths. https://www.wbparts.com/rfq/5306-01-479-1492.html gives the bolt specifications you should need to figure it out. I'm not 100% sure as I haven't checked...

That's the same reason I'm installing aircon into mine right now. Just waiting on a bracket to install a condenser into the fender (stock location for the newer trucks) so I can still change the top on the truck when I want without worrying about hoses and stuff. Buying from auction is a...

Looks like New Jersey is somewhat friendly on titling these, though they do have some restrictions on them.

If 4 speed and aircon are must haves, then there isn't really a "cheap" option. Many of the M1123s will come with the red dot system (the add on aircon system, it's bulky and a little unsightly, but it works). It won't be hooked up and charged, but it will at least be there, and bringing it...

Naval jelly works pretty good on rust, so does OSPHO (phosphoric acid). I use the OSPHO in a spray bottle (wear gloves) and go over it a few times. Either way, you have to wire brush or scrape off the existing rust for it to work properly. As for the top, not sure. That's pretty rough looking.

Getting your hands a little dirty now when you are prepared for it is a lot less stressful than having to get them really dirty later on when you are somewhere that you aren't prepared for it.

When the trucks were built for the most part they have things to help minimize the corrosion, but once it's out of the factory you get whatever the person thought would be a good idea at the time. I know for mine I primarily do zinc plated rivnuts for everything, then it doesn't matter so much...

not allowed HMMWVs that are legally licensed for road use in other states to have their titles transferred into those two.

That sounds like a diesel all right. I don't hear anything unusual on my end, but my speakers aren't necessarily the best.

The attachment is in google drive, and requires permissions we don't have in order to view.

That channel strip is much too flimsy to do this with, you'd have to add a lot of reinforcement to make it not self destruct as soon as the wind started flapping the top. Also, you don't want to use stainless steel rivets into the aluminum of the windshield frame, or body for that matter...

On Facebook there is a 1025A2 GMV truck listed at $14k in Davidson NC, it has the Rod Hall suspension in it, missing a few things but would also be a good place to start a build. The differences between an A1 and A2 truck are definitely worth the price difference. My truck with a 6.5NA and...

I haven't torn into my truck much. Is that area where it mounts aluminum? If it is did you make sure to put some type of barrier between the stainless plate and the aluminum? The two metals definitely don't play nice together and putting them directly against each other is asking to corrode...

$11k is less than a lot of side by side ATVs, and they just don't project the same type of image as the HMMWV does.

if you plan to go on highways with it, or serious off roading, then yes. The 1025 shouldn't have better ground clearance than the 998, but it's probably newer so the springs aren't sagging as badly. The A2 will have the 12k drivetrain, so much stronger. Downside is more expensive if you do...

if you are seeing any sparks, then there is a bad connection, usually just a loose wire. Typically the only time you'll get sparks is when the electricity is trying to jump a gap. The shunt should just be a bunch of metal bars going from one point to another point. The burns in your picture...

Batteries during charging = 28-29V Batteries after shutdown = 26-28V Batteries after resting, 100% charge = 25.2V (minimum) or higher, usually above 26V for several days if properly charged. A fully charged 12V battery will read 12.6V At 12.2V it is considered to be fully discharged, trying...

As was said, different configurations or versions. The models that are just a 3 or 4 digit number without A1 or A2 at the end are usually the early ones (not counting the 11XX series trucks). Then came the A1 version. The standard and A1 versions are almost always 6.2L 3 speed trucks unless...

I was once told the HMMWV width had to do with being support vehicles for tanks and the like, with the wider wheel track it could drive in the ruts left by the tank, with only slight contact due to the suspension/hubs the way they are. As for fitting in Chinooks, I never once saw or heard of...