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One day EUC turnaround? Tells me no paperwork went to DLA. Tells me your truck is a flip. You did see the chewed up driveshaft yoke right? And the battery box mess?

What is going on with the transmission controller at this point? All lit up and no codes?

This is the good one. Picture from Rapco's ebay listing. Oh and make sure you disconnect the batteries before you mate the connectors!

Hmm, do you have a selenium rectifier (in the grille) or one with discrete diodes? The selenium looks like a stack of sheet metal plates. They tend to fail due to age. Suggest you replace it with one of the newer types with diodes.

If the alternator is properly grounded, and the little excite wire has 24 volts going to it with the ignition on, and the heavy gauge wire has 24 volts as well, the alternator needs overhaul or replacement.

My regulator makes a very audible "clunk" when field power is applied. Is your regulator a simple box or does it have a cylindrical finned top? It's possible your system is shot.

According to DA Pamphlet 750-33, pin F needs to go hot +24 volts when the ignition switch is turned on.

Well there’s your problem, needs to be 24 volts.

First thing to check is if the small wire at the alternator is getting excite voltage when the ignition is turned on.

I would say just under the ring. Btw, I base this JB Weld recommendation based on repairs I did on the bottom of a M715 gas tank long ago.

I would use JB Weld.

Looks like he was helping out with the 40th Anti-Aircraft Artillery Brigade as well (40AAA on the truck bumper in the picture). Picture has to be after 1952 because the M38A1 Jeep in the pic wasn't produced before then. Any other pics in the album with trucks that could provide clues? Any...

Recall that the 100 amp system was a kit installed at depot level. The kit would have had an instruction sheet inside the crate. Nobody I know has a copy. Here is what changed with the 100 amp kit on a M38A1 to the best of my recollection: Ammeter is replaced with voltmeter. Ammeter wires...

Welcome. At that short distance, call around to wrecker outfits that have Landoll recovery trailers, the price might be manageable. These FMTVs need THOROUGH debugging before putting them on the highway.

More alternator info.

Meter needle should be steady on the white tic at idle and above. You are correct that something is not right.

The transmission keypad needs to be fully functioning with no start inhibit codes to allow the start circuit to operate.

One leg of the spider plugs into the volt meter. The gauge is grounded through the case.

Last time I checked that feature was to allow the TOW reloader to hand a round to the gunner without dismounting the truck.

3M Scotch Super 33 is the best you can get. Used by electricians everywhere.