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Uhh, because he can???? Besides, there is no guarantee the power will come back on when they say, especially during a severe wind storm... I don't know his situation, but I'm on a well, so I will kick mine up for even a half-hour outage, just so I can flush my toilets and be comfortable...

Are you sure this wasn't the other way around? Not that I don't believe it could not happen, but that's quite a bit of work to swap t-case, driveshaft, pull the bed, etc... to make a M1031 out of a an M1028. Check your NSN against what GM72K10 posted...

The resistor for the starting glow plug.

Not if you have a helper with long skinny arms...

I'm pretty sure those criteria apply to almost EVERYONE in the hobby! :) I know I'd own at least one if that were the case!

Orange Wire Kit Instructions And, here are the "Orange Wire Kit" instructions, including correct battery hookup sequence.

DUVAC user guide Here is an old DUVAC user guide, which is pretty good reading for anyone curious about the system. It's not the exact vintage of the CUCV stuff, but the concept is the same.

Yes, that is right. But, to get the 200 amps of 24V power they wanted, and to be able to provide 12V power to run the rest of the truck, they decided to run it with the dual alternator setup and use one of them, along with the DUVAC, to balance the system. Or so they thought... :)

Some DUVAC info I just converted my old write-up to PDF. Hopefully, it helps. Can't believe it has been 14 years since I wrote this...

Try my old "fix" of swapping the front and rear (red and orange) wires of the DUVAC and see what you get. It is probably not posted here, but I do have a lot of documentation on this system from back when I had one and dealt with this issue that I will post up, if it helps.

I concur, something else is wrong. A 6.2 in the pickup versions, with stock gears and stock tires, governed at somewhere between 3600-4200 should run 72-82 maxed out. Now, if you don't have 3rd gear, that'll change to right around 50...

I remember a friend telling me that he spoke to someone who swore it worked as advertised when he had a heavy 24V load, which most hobbyists would not be able to replicate. I have no confirmation of this behavior, but it was what I heard second hand.

But a HEMTT is a) not over-width, b) not running tires probably from the 60s, c) not built in the 50s, and d) has a top speed of more than about 43mph... It would be a LONG trip from PA to FL...

I know what you mean. They are kind of M911-esque with the sheer size and the drop axle, but I like the hood and cab lines better. More traditional tractor. I was not able to go look at the two when they came up years ago, so I don't know anything about the engine nor transmission/transfer...

Does anyone know the model and/or use for these Autocar tractors? Crismon doesn't seem to mention them. The first pic is of two that sold out of APG years ago on GL, and the second is a pic I found somewhere online.

Yup, that is definitely a newer style tach.

One closest to the radiator appears to be supplying the 12V for you.

You won't harm it by running at lower loads, but it causes problems mentioned above. This is from the TM: NOTE The generator set can be operated continuously at any load from no load up to andincluding rated load; However, at light loads (less than 25% of set rating) and oily residue(unburned...

Sounds like (from his 2 posts) it is a 6CTA? His posts do not appear to have been edited. While I can't possibly add to some of the helpful information provided in some other posts :roll:, I'll ask the same as post #7: Which valves (locations)?

And, from those pics, no black-out lighting, slave receptacle, nor rear lifting shackles. The camo pattern is clearly non-issue, and is like a strange combination of MERDC and early NATO. Given that my M1009 was manufactured in Jan, 1983 and is wearing true MERDC-scheme camo, with all of the...