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@AveRageJoe001, when do you pick your unit up?

One of the things I do with a machine from auction (once I know it runs) is to change all the rubber components in the fuel system. Jet fuel is super hard on rubber parts. Its a virtual certainly that if they don't leak right away that they will start leaking when you least expect it leaving you...

The transmitter and switch are near each other. Page 133 of TM 56115-545-12 ]

Did you check the low oil pressure switch? The low oil pressure light doesn't get its signal from the sending unit but from a separate switch.

If you decide to give it a try be sure to report back on how it went.

I'm struggling to figure out an application where a 5kw generator would be useful. Most of your 480v equipment won't even get out of bed for 5kw. That aside, sure. You could wire the head for that. As you said, it would required a good bit of mods for the controls.

Great. The PDFs that I have are horrible and unreadable.

David is getting a GREAT education in the inner workings of the 831. Does anyone have a decent scan of the schematics? I need to work to restore them like what we did on the 802/803 ones.

I wish I could buy a 1040 for a reasonable price. :(

Would it be an option to have a local fab shot to build one out of steel or aluminum? Maybe not the lowest cost option but a sure thing to get exactly what you want.

We were spared the worst of latest cold wave here in NC. Low temp was ~20F last night. I'm heading out to do the final radiator flush on the unit with the gelled/crystallized coolant.

The compression is going to be pretty high if everything is OK. It may be more than you can do with a push-in style compression gauge. Those engines are dead simple and parts are readily available.

Yea, those engines are really easy starting when everything is working correctly. Sounds like you may not have quite enough compression. Any way to pull the injector and do a compression test?

Yep, if you can't inspect one of those in person then its a parts machine that will sell way above its value.

With tap therapy its always best to start off easy. :)

Those switches are a common failure point. It is possible the contacts are frozen. If you search around the forum you'll see how people have gotten them to free up. Most of the time it involves a bit of tappy-tap-tap on the stem of the switch. If I remember correctly there is at least one...

Good luck and be sure to let us know how the repair goes.

Understood. As Kurt said, its a bad diode. If there is any kind of electronics shop around you the part should be readily available. It isn't anything special. Very common. If you can't find it locally an online retailer like Mouser can have one to you in a few days.

Also to add, here is a diagram of the diagnostic port on the generator. If you look at the schematic you'll see little triangles with letters. Those correspond to the diagnostic port pin. I personally find this helpful to trace problems quickly...

CR1 is either in backwards or damaged. Can you take a photo?