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All for the low, low price of $25! https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bussmann-Eaton/F03A125V30A?qs=TNh9aA0PEuKq0dy0fzwSmA%3D%3D :sick:

You can also unplug the AUX pump, as well as the double float in the rear tank (and the rear fender switch... but thats almost NEVER the culprit). Just unplug one at a time and see if you can find the problem. If none of those give you the AH-HA, then you need to start verifying wire numbers...

If that's with new batteries, they are not fully charged. Battery quality has been piss poor since COVID... Much like the world. Let that machine run and see if the gauge ends up zeroing out (or put the batteries on a charger to make certain). Ive had bad batteries off the shelf new more than...

If the fuse was bad or missing, it would be showing a discharge state.

Does your battery gauge read at zero or charging while running? Have you checked the fuse in FU1?

If its running strong, you are probably right that there was air in the system.

Have you put a new water fuel separator and fuel filter in? Does your primary pump have an inline filter on the inlet side? Could take that off and clean out. Also just disconnect the hard line that goes from the pump and put an empty milk jug, coffee can, etc there and with the dead crank at...

It is not... same price is shown on Mouser, Amazon, etc.. all the normal electrical suppliers. Its an obsolete part now, most just shown as discontinued.

Look at what the damn fuse holder goes for these days... and out of stock almost everywhere: https://us.rs-online.com/product/bussmann-by-eaton/fhn26g1/70149872/ I've been whittling away my parts stash over the last 6-8 months helping other SS users in a bind with availability now... but I...

Most of the running noise on those machines is created by the genhead, not the engine. Good luck getting it operational.

The SS member who first answered, can get you both missing items (sorry can't seem to tag Kurt by my phones browser).

No thats the quad fuse modification, that looks to be installed correctly. Its the FU1 shown in your original photo, very top left. It should have a pop breaker above it too.

You also need to find a cap for that fuse upper right of the photo, without that buttoned up your alternator isn't going to be charging anything.

I've also seen wire numbers (and their respective wiring diagrams) vary between models too... Don't recall if they were in the move over from Libby to Fermont, but I've had equivalent sized machines be side by side and there be slight differences between the two (but match what's on the supplied...

In theory you are correct, but I have seen a random wire change or two over the years, that don't match up between the two. I think they were on items like the oil pressure switch (where the wire wasn't so important, as it was just completing a circuit). But a good rule of thumb is that they are...

You should be able to install the bulkhead fitting on an 803 without any issue, in the machine. If the tank opening is off center at all, you could just loosen the hold down bracket on the top of the tank and bump it slightly from the backside (or pull it forward), but Ive never had an issue...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-002a-003a-004a-005a-drop-in-spin-on-fuel-filter-adapter.201506/

I would think that for the duty cycle of a typical MEP, so long as you have a properly functioning thermostat... even if its oversized for the LPW2, the system should still perform properly. It will just more efficiently cool the LPW2.

802 and 803 are specified with the same radiator, so if it works for one it should work for the other. I've been in talks with a few OEM manufacturers to get drop in replacements made, but the price points are about where you were quoted for a refurb. I know these are going to be an issue as...

Or to make sure its still there in once piece!