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I used duct tape, it worked but eventually turned to dust. Next time I'll try Scotch 88.

All that is available and probably cheaper than redoing both diff's. I'm not familiar with most tranny's mentioned but I do know about the 700R4 I swapped one in and left the 4.56 gears and easily cruised at 65-70 . The problems would start when I hit a hill, it doesn't take much of a hill or...

A lot of this gear ratio talk is lost on me, but knowing that the 6.2 is such a power house and torque monster why would you want any tranny that has a double over drive? A M1010 is heavy to start with, get it loaded for camping or whatever and it's not going to go very fast except downhill!

Odd that you "need" both at the same time, almost like he's throwing parts at it while not knowing why.

That's it, just the one seal.

Time to slow down a bit, I had a similar wake up call 2 years back. Went to dinner with my wife and woke up with EMS doing CPR, had a second episode a couple hours later in the hospital, bright and early next morning I got a pace maker installed. It changed my way of thinking and my outlook on...

I was hoping to come in here today and see that it was up and running, might have a bad cell in a battery or justa bad connection. Could be like I did had the charger on a car in my driveway and when I was cleaning up that night I dutifully unplugged everything, including the extension cord...

Boy o boy, I see guy's have been jumping all over this thread! I did a little (meaning very little) lead work back around 1975 or 76 and IIRC that's what I used. Not sure what alloy I used or what alloy yours is. I do used oak paddles with beeswax on them to smooth the lead, I remember quite...

Parts on the way, should be there on Wed. or Thursday. Good luck. Never had to use any Teflon plumbers tape to seal IP lines. Whatever you do, do not get any in where it will end up in the injectors!

Going once!

Nice to have spare parts like that! I didn't mean to sound like I was degrading your truck and apologize for coming off that way. Glad to hear about just the cab, hopefully the PO didn't sand the paint very well before bed lining it.

If you want to pay the shipping I have the line you need. Do not make your own those lines are a specific inside diameter and length.

I could live with the bumpers and the roll bar, those stacks would go, but why the heck would did the dumb PO spray it with bed liner? With me that would have to go or maybe a deal killer.

I remember using wire ties that come on loaves of bread, not sure if it was on a CUCV or not but what works on works on others, I do know I just tightened up the bolts with that thin wire in there.

I used a new set of mounts AND the steel spacer plates that have a removeable bar that goes down to the bellhousing, the plates and mounts give lots of room but I couldn't get the bars to fit. Maybe someday I'll try again.

It reads the resistance from the height of the float and the float doesn't care if it's in gas, water or diesel.

Easy way to see if that core is leaking, place it on a flat level surface and carefully look for any wet spots. If that place on the bottom is a leak then it will show up. Have you tried changing the rad-cap?

Harbor Freight may be your best friend! They have a folding aluminum step stool that has locking legs, I keep one in the back of my Silverado so I can climb in the bed. I've looked for steps for square body trucks and never came up with any decent ones other than running boards. I have had good...

Get a new set of head bolts too, sucks but they are single use only.

Hope for the best but prepare for the worst. I envision some bent rods and maybe a bent/twisted or broken crank. On the good side no valves should be damaged unless they ate some debris. I know, I'm not helping. Truely are sorry this happened.