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If it's not your daily driver I like to order from Rock Auto, they have parts listed from the cheap and scrolling down they get better and more$ but it's tough beating their prices. The only issue is if you get the wrong part, I did have that happen ONCE but that was just an A/C line. It's nice...

In over two million miles I've driven the only time I ever used chains (other than towing) was twice and then I just tossed them down on the ice and kicked them under the drives and eased out the clutch, once I was away from the dock on a better surface I went and retrieved them. I know that's...

Welcome aboard but I think he's already done or should be as he started in 06!

Turbo 400 has it's own flex plate and needs proper T/C, TH350 and 700R4 share one flex plate and cannot use the same T/C as TH400. Did you make sure the flex plate is from an 84? They changed tooth count in 85! Both bolt up the same and look the same UNTIL you lay them one on top of the other...

The one in pic #2 (with round hole) I believe is for an EGR California engine with the top piece (whatever it is) missing. Use the other one with the straight divider front to back, supposedly it flows air better.

Look for used, I've picked them up for $50. Clean rust free ones.

Are you sure the chain laws effect your truck? It's been years since I've been out that way but in the past I thought the laws were for commercial trucks like tractor trailers. Every fall we'd get a message from the terminal telling us about the chain laws and to stop and pick up a set, I'd pick...

That's some good pricing! I remember paying around $100 15-20 years ago for a tank and used was half that.

Check the brake light switch, did a PO change it? If so it could be the wrong switch or hooked up wrong. Some switches brake contact to shut off a lock up torque converter or cruise control.

Or a very long screwdriver, works great. BTW I think the squeal is belt adjustment, just my .02

First thing I'd do is check that ground on the tank. Instead of unbolting the bed just unbolt the four bolts holding the tank mounting brackets in place, have a floor jack under it and then lower it to where you can get in there and work. I've been known to cheat a little and replaced all the...

Yeah KISS= Keep It Simple Silly

No relay unless the PO put it in, first thing I'd look at is make sure it's really the T/L and not the brake light switch out of adjustment or the pedal just hanging to low.

You could tap into the top of the metal filler neck and braze or weld a fitting in there, after removing it of course! That way the fuel just runs down into the tank from the highest point, the pump should stop any siphon effect and if you use a momentary type of push button switch you don't...

NICE! Now go back to sleep , grouch.

A doner truck could be a source of the wiring harness for the switch and gauge. From the pic you seem to have just the end.

On one of my first trucks, I replace the starter with one that a lifetime warranty and that was the worst ever! Every year I had to get in replaced, after a while I extended the wires to it so replacing was much easier. I believe that was on a civvie 2wd with a 6.2 and there was no leaf spring...

LMC has just about everything, they aren't the cheapest but then again you do get what you pay for.

Well I was going to say go to the local junkyard and find a doner truck, but the I saw your in ICELAND! So much for that idea. I think your going to have to do a lot of research online for the wiring and fuel routing. sorry I'm no help.

It's just a little sleepy, check the belt tension on that alt.