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You can adjust the pressure with the governor but 120 is about right. If it climbs above 130 and is still climbing without the pop off releasing the pressure then you have a problem.
I have done it but I can’t remember if I wrote much about it. The only part that is difficult and I recommend soaking it a few days in ATF or kroil is getting the star shaped bolt out from the side of the head. It can crack if your not careful.
I had to rebuild mine because it was a g pump...
There is a clip that holds the button on that can wear out causing the button to come off and also a truck that has been sitting a while will get gummed up and can cause the button to come off due to sludge.
A lot of times it won’t come off unless the hydraulic head is removed though.
You can take it apart and clean it but don’t use anything abrasive. The tolerances inside the hydraulic head are very tight and it will leak if those aren’t kept.
It never hurts to at least try banging on the PCB box a few times with a light hammer first before you try jumping anything. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t.
Just run a fuel line to the inlet on the bottom of the injection pump. I used a boat fuel line with a pump. It at least eliminates a large portion of the fuel system and help narrow it down a bit. When mine didn’t start it ended up being the bowtie shaped piece in the hydraulic head. It was...
Learn the starting and turning off switch sequence so you don’t fry your PCB and I’d print up the schematics for the brake and electrical system before you go.
Check the fluid in the transmission, transfer case and axles also.
Extra brake chamber diagrams are a good idea also.
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