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My understanding is, the 6.2 and 454 used the same mounts and the SBC used a different one.

4WD use the bottom style as they mount to the trans/transfer case adapter. Top one is 2WD model. You can get the stock rubber style at NAPA, AutoZone, etc. If you really want urethane mounts, make sure you do the engine mounts too. If not, you risk cracking the trans as the front and rear...

Not sure if this should be done as well but I know in the hot rod world, if you change you motor mounts to urethane, you need to do the transmission mount as well. This keeps everything moving together equally. If having urethane motor mounts and rubber trans mounts, the rubber one will flex...

That would be the proportioning valve and to my knowledge, there are no parts available for them. They are sold as a unit.

I think those are the fuel heater. I think the WIF wires are at the bottom.

First thing I would check is the fuel shut off solenoid. If that is not opening, no fuel will get through the IP. Mine went bad, where I could hear a "click" but it wasn't moving enough to open the valve. I replaced it with a new one that went "CLICK" and it started right up. If you have...

Wow, that rack definitely got a little massaging. LOL Looks like fun!

At this point, Vintage Air is likely your best bet. Nostalgic Air had a CUCV specific kit but the company who was making their housings went out of business so they are not offering them anymore. Other than the compressor mount/style and likely hose routing to it, everything else would be the...

Tire size is also a factor you have to consider. If you are keeping the tire size 33" or under (stock was about 31") then leave the 3.73's. If you are going to 35" or taller, then I would swap back the 4.56's.

So very sorry for your loss. It is never easy to see them go over the Rainbow Bridge. I still miss our Ellie girl and that was 6 years ago she made the journey.

I used a diesel tach from Speedhut Gauges for my build. It runs off the tach output on the alternator. I used a cheap Amazon RPM checker to establish the idle RPM's and then adjusted the tach to match. Works great. RPM checker https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q8L894 Speedhut Gauges -...

I know my M1010 stops way better than my Dodge Ram 2500 (past '97 and current '00)

Rides very well but don't have many miles. Keep in mind ii do have a M1010 so weight and center of gravity are different.

I actually put on a set of Blistein 5165, using the stock compression/extension lengths to guide my choices. They are not 100% the same but within 1/4" to 1/2" This was on my M1010 but they should be the same for a M1008 (not sure about M1009). Front 25-187878 Rear 25-187717 Ordered off Amazon.

The larger one is actually the glow plug control board.

Personally, if you want to keep the 24/12v hybrid system, dump that upper alt for another 12v one like the lower alt in your pic. Then you can wire it up like this, which will charge the batteries correctly, give you 24v for the starting system and 12v for everything else. This is how my M1010...

Yeah, that's about what mine looked like. Took it to a local radiator shop to have the boil and clean it but when they inspected it, they showed me how thin the tube are getting and cleaning it would result in lots of little pinholes. I had them re-core it and haven't looked back. Wasn't...

I think what I liked about the Nostalgic Air unit was it was it's own self contained A/C only unit and did not mess with the factory heater system. As much as it would suck, I can live without A/C but if the heater doesn't work to defrost the windshield, that becomes a PITA. The Vintage Air is...

Congrats!!! You by chance the person who contacted me over on ExPo? Looks like a good starting point.

That might be the case on the brackets but this kit https://nostalgicac.com/c-k-series-military-m1008-m1009-truck-blazer-a-c-system.html the under dash housing is the part not being made anymore. It's the plastic part that holds all of the under dash parts. That company went out of business.