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The pto would be different. It took a flange kit too. The pto is same as an m925 or 929 but turns a little slower on the Allison 1545/Cat..

I had a weld shop about a block from the power plant and the strength (as well as deliverable short circuit rms) was way up there. I put in a rare 240 delta 3 phase with a 240 single pulled from 2 poles. Man that was nice to have the 3 and single in one service. Now it's all Y 120/208 or...

Can you provide the reference ? I thought maybe 10% up to around 440, which is in the range to operate most 115 duty cycle motors, unless fusing or heaters are tight.

Wes.....really....is that the 395 MVT rated to 81 ?

Putting in gauges is a good thing. You will probably need to go to the 3000 governor springs. I think the OEM max out approaching 2100. I've read a lot about the 8.3t going higher, but I want mine set at 2300. Road speed then depends on the tires, I'm running 395s, so slower road speed...

I use WD40 or penetrating oil on a lot of electric with laminations and to lube. Rust and eddy currunts don't get along well.

Not so much never done as finishing one item being entirely overshadowed by 5 new.

I didn't come up with it in an SS search but a good SS thread was found by google search. It's from around 2006 and seems to have what you need. Google Search title "PTO for a NP205, need info." And see if the SS thread comes up. I can't seem to link things with my tablet.

Thanks...there was not a corner that hadn't been beat up. It did clean up nice. top and sides get steel. I don't know the make of the actuator, Titan may be right.

The brakes will function normally when I remove the bolt that I installed. I have not remade the brake line yet and I don't want the movement with a dry MC. So no brakes. But it's my weldtrailer and not complete to dot.....yet.

If you make a change like mine, the heat from welding on one side will cause it to make a C shape, not stay straight. This affects putting in a ball or ring unit. I cut one bolt hole off and is not so obvious like 6 hole was. I used a 4 1/2" cut off wheel to cut the ring off the plunger. Take...

I lengthened mine out and use a ball. Also put a bolt in to stop the plunger and lock out the brakes. The plunger is cast steel, so can be welded.

Slate, here is the bag mount on top of the spring. It worked well with the square U bolts. Second photo is gooseneck ball, in frame, mount.

Most like "original" but there are a couple of tire and wheel combinations that work too. While you can dual up the budd originals with 9.00, it puts the width 2" beyond the legal 8'6". Bolster wheels like the M1061 has can work, using 12.5 x 16.5" tire or a hummer tire ( my favorite). Or...

I'm an m105 fan.....lots of good parts. Really....it matches your m35 so go for it.

Seems like the weight of the valve stem would offset the materials removed, thus no need for a second whole.

Happy, happy......me. I've fought air problems on the 929 for years. Beginning, I blew out the line from the regulator to the head and got lots of debris and some water. I used air tool oil in the line, but didn't take the head off. Long story short...I paid some sharp guys to work on my...

Mullaney, I do have hydraulics but not the tools...nor do I have the air tools. Probably air for big tires will be a main use. So you think we need more air storage for the power assist? Good point. Yea, have a pressure compensated pump. Thanks Wes....have you tried one ? ....not real...

I'm rethinking my air system on my my M35A3 4x4 project and just got the old Haldex DRYest back from puttiing a new one on the 929. I could rebuild it......or buy a new one, maybe less capacity. I want to add some reserve for using air tools, so need an ASME tank. There is brake assist...

So was your rotor hitting? Have you replaced the points and condenser? It's only been 45years since I was doing that regularly. Now I would go electronic.