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It's just a bed, not a trailer. Thanks. Keep us posted on your progress. Just the part from ND to here, N Indiana, is long way. I'm at about the half way point for the NY part. Do you have a chase vehicle?

I've hauled several truck beds using bales of straw in the tracks on those trailers. There is no way that a 1028 should be hauled on one.

I hope you have a flashing light/strobe or something big marking you as a slow vehicle, on both sides up and up high. Cars traveling 80 mph come up on you extremely fast and with something in front of them, may not see you until they pass what they are behind. I wish I could have worked out...

I have a set of A3 wheels and 14.5 tires in the classified. I see another member with $350/rim and mine are ready to go with new oring and Haltek big bore valve stem for $400 x 2.

Got it. My mistake. I had bigger truck in mind also. It looks like a hard job without a torch and even then, fixing the broken off screws, drilling, easy out or ???, is going to be tough. Finish braking the other strap bolts and that yoke will give up it's u-joint. The other end will slip...

Had an international 345 do something similar. I worked the crank by hand with a file and stone to get it smooth (or close) after peeling the bearing off. I reassembled with new bearing to see if everything else was okay (rings, tranny) and that it would be worth rebuilding. About 15 minutes...

"Went to take out the rear driveshaft to do my flywheel replacement.... I am in a parking lot with only a Cresent toolkit." Why would you start a flywheel replacement in a parking lot (not your own I assume) with only a Crescent tool kit?

Or take the u-joint apart. Take off the safety tabs with a sharp chisel and get a wrench or ratchet to take the cup retainers off. Then beat the shaft from one side until the cup (nearly) comes off and then finish it with a pry-tool. Then do the same for the other side and you can free the...

No problem. If I had the horsepower I would use them. I especially like them with a 4x4 809 series....but that is another MV dream. Darn it sucks to be cash poor.

I have drooled over that 818 ever since seeing it. I like the older style body. You could put a fifth wheel camper at the end of the frame and save the bed space.

Did you sell yours?

CNC2013, we have very different needs because I have a dump truck and the A2, with some turbo lag and low settings for fuel and rpm. I'm sure the 250 can be a good candidate for the larger tires, maybe even better than the 8.3T. Now a bobbed 5 ton with 53" and a rear air locker....I'm...

I know what you are saying about it being a mechanical thing because you are not part of it's circuit, you are not the negative aka "ground" of the vehicle. But you could have become part of the circuit if you had the clippers in the right and have your left hand on the vehicle steel. That is...

I was finishing a demo job and until that time, all the electric had been dead. I was in a bucket about 30' up with one hand on a steel truss and the other on my cutters. I got all three phases at once + neutral in one hand and out the other. I've had electricians licence for (edit)45...

Having just built the driveshaft for my deuce, I was told anything more than 2 degree difference of the TC and the differential is too much. Does the rear differential face down to match the engine/tranny/TC angle? I'm glad the M35A3 is parallel to the frame...I used a 2.8 degree block to...

The 208 was my only time taking a real shock in many years doing heavy electrical. The idea of cutting a "run away" starters wire brought the thought back to me. I'm probably way off base...maybe it would be like a pulling a welding ark and not have the explosive effect that I envisioned.

Good luck cutting it under what is next to a fault condition that could be hundreds of amps. It reminds me of cutting a 3 phase 208 all at the same time live. I would consider a second solenoid in series myself, switch activated.

Tin AND silver plated...4 gauge. Does it have 600v embossed into the jacket or say 600v? Works for single or 3 phase, around 80 amps. Some scrap yards take money off for the plated wire. Is around $4/ft to buy new (not plated). Wire a generator.

All of the components are readily available for the 1610 u-joints including flange yokes, weld yokes, male and female slip yokes and tube. Tube seems to have different thickness, 3.5" dia.

Why don't you buy the components and build it with the help of a machine shop? Did Wes say a 1610 u-joint?