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I took care of a couple of things yesterday with my slantback. While the headlights, marker lights and brake lights worked, the blinkers, dash lights and horn did not. So I swapped my light switch with a known good unit and voila - everything is working again as it should.
I also installed a...
I would budget $5-600 for a nice set of soft doors. By diligently watching the various websites, you'll likely come in just under that. A set of used (faded or needs stitching) will likely be $75-100 per door.
I find it funny with everyone complaining about or questioning the price of X-doors...
I'm glad to hear that there were other circumstances involved other than a mechanical failure being the root cause. I still hate it for all of those involved though, especially the young soldier who is now maimed for life as a result of this.
Granted, in the northeast it can be hard to get...
I posted this a while back in another post, but it's still relevant.
- Generally speaking, the 6.5's tend to be a little more attractive than the 6.2's. Why? Because the 6.2 is the original engine and the 6.5 isn't a unit level change out, so the truck likely went through some sort of depot...
I Google'd this and it appears that the data plate is the only place where you should find a serial number time after time. Occasionally you'll find the serial number on a tag wired inside the end of one of the frame rails, but these are usually missing. If it went through depot rebuild, or if...
I finally broke down and dropped the pan on the transmission today. No metal but there was some dirt granules and what appeared to be water droplets. The fluid was burned black and the filter was plugged pretty bad too - no wonder it wouldn't shift.
I replaced the fluid/filter and added a...
Curious where you came up with the "53mph" part? Even the data plate says 55mph is max in high range. I top mine out at 60mph because I've heard that once you get above that you start running close to redline.
Now as far as everything else, it sounds lIke you have some investigating to do. It...
Now is the opportunity for you to do what a lot of folks don't seem to do - read the tech manuals. Bone up or familiarize yourself with some of the work that you know you're going to have to do.
It's really not that hard to mess up - download the TM's from here on the website and follow them.
Unless you don't want to work on it, I'd say see what you have first. If you run into problems, ask questions. If it's not something you feel comfortable with, then consult a shop.
I would also suggest buying the obvious parts you'll be needing now, so you can spread the cost out instead of a mass cash dump at once.......
Where is the truck located?
The Fort Bragg DRMO guys always seem to take themselves a little too seriously and that guy was way too full of himself.
The army disposed of the equipment via DLA, so it'll be DLA who makes an effort for recovery, I'd like too see them try that - recover thousands or tens of thousands of...
That's impossible to know without knowing the true condition of the vehicle and to what extent you want to restore it. It's currently a non-running vehicle, this could mean that you need to replace a few minor parts - or it could be a blown engine.
You take a risk in buying a non-running truck...
Looks like that's the supplemental armored door - these are appropriate for M998 series trucks. I'm surprised to see that they stopped all that. My understanding is that they're only supposed to stop small shrapnel.
Implementation of armor kits like that will require extensive mods to the vehicle - suspension and drivetrain especially and a turbo would be a great start. Otherwise you're just going to break stuff. Humvee's are no speed demons anyway and adding armor like that will only make it worse.
Get...
I actually had a response done up that basically explained this, but deleted it without posting because I'm sure it would only have been taken the wrong way by some readers.
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