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That's a good bit of info I will squirrel away for later.

Great job on the radiator flap! That looks really good.

There is a MEP-1041 for sale in Iowa for cheap. Guessing someone didn't know what they were buying.

Taking rounds, that's some damage I haven't seen before.

I would almost guarantee there is a functional equivalent for that oil pressure sender for less money. If you are searching by NSN number, you are probably getting results for parts that meet every section of MIL-STD-810 and than some. There are pretty extreme temperature, vibration, dust...

I decided to go for it and ended up being the only bidder, so I picked up the 803 for cheap. I pulled the top cover and muffler and didn't see any signs of water intrusion. Looking inside the crankcase, the exposed steel parts were free of rust. The engine turned over by hand easily, so there...

Yeah, it's a real shame, but that is the stage we are in. I wish the -1030s and -1040s were cheaper. They look nice, but a service hassle.

Thank's for the replies, you validated my gut feeling. I was kinda hoping that these units might trap a limited amount of moisture in the muffler before it flowed to the engine. This yard is in Colorado where it's dry most of the time, but I have no reason to believe its always lived here...

I know there are a few guys few who have bought multiple generators from auction. When looking at a non-running unit with a missing exhaust flap / cover, what is the likelyhood that it has engine damage from water intrusion?

Thanks for clarifying

No, it had a 20 amp in there and I stupidly put another 20A in without thinking. 30A is already on order. So I'm reading the TM to diagnose the frequency meter issue, and step g. says "Multimeter indication should be 0.096 to 0.104 DC milliamps." Is that really ~0.100 milliamps or should that...

Success! I didn't nail down exactly the root of the problem, but I pulled apart the rear injector and verified no junk internally and plunger moved freely. I reset the injector positions and verified rack function, fuel return flow, and re-bled the injector lines. Hit the starter and it took...

We use PEI Genesis to source Mil-Spec connectors at work. They have technical guides that should help ID your missing connectors. Just be warned, they are expensive. Solution Guides

Yes, I did that first before attempting to start the engine. There was good flow at the injectors and purge vents on the canister filter. The old filters still looked really good. Based on hrs and date written on the filters, this engine has sat a long time without being run.

A step forward, a step back. My new gasket showed up, so I got back to work today. First thing was tearing apart the pressure relief. It was definitely stuck. After removing the retainer and spring, the plunger would not come out. I flipped it over and had to tap it out with a hammer and...

Thanks Ray, I was surfing around for the best deal on those.

Removing the side cover was no issue, but the gasket got destroyed. Removing the pressure relief was easy. I love how servicable the engine is. Once open, I think I understand what might have happened. Though there was no water when I changed oil, it is clear there was at least some moisture...

Ray, you nailed it. Holy moly that's a lot of pressure!

It's been in the garage. Outside air temp has been 40°F That's an interesting thought! The oil pressure gauge doesn't work, so I'll rig up something manual. I had a little more success tonight. Through several starting attempts, the engine would run progressively longer each time. One...

The fuel system is primed and I'm getting squirts when I crack the line nuts at the injectors. I followed the TM, opening the lines at the IPs first and loosening the IP nuts, then the injectors nuts. I have not checked the fuel return to the tank yet.