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That's the way it came with 1,500 hours on it. Doesn't look to have been overseas in a desert and full of the usual desert dust caked everywhere.

It's S6 & S8 for that issue. Need to pop the top off the AC compartment to get to the back of S8. Along the sides of S6 and S8 are small openings by each terminal screw to spray the Deoxit in. Below is a pic with arrows pointing to two of the many openings in S8.

OK, that's indicating either the battery(s) are not charged/bad OR something in the path of getting battery voltage to S19A2 is failing. Measure the DC voltage at the following points with your meters Negative lead on TP31 (chassis ground), E-STOP pulled out and S1 in START 1) Voltage at S19-A2...

What's the voltage across those two points with the switch in STOP?

It has both input and output protection by way of a pair of fuses. It does not utilize the power from the Quad winding so it's not affected by Quad winding voltage spikes. Also the VR is switched out of the circuit during Flashing.

My understanding is that during cranking the Quad winding in the gen head can output some voltage spikes that exceed the PRV rating of the diodes in the VR causing them to short out. Exactly how I don't know. The flashing circuit is voltage limited by R14 and this only supplies voltage to the...

According to my notes... Murray Ultra 15358 and the gasket is a 2138

Which Diode(s) are you referring to? The MOV does not have a "polarity" so it can be installed either way.

Link ----> Door and Latch

:LOL:

Voltage at the slave port should be about 28.3 volts once the batteries are topped off after starting.

When in single phase mode only CT1-C is used to drive the %Current Meter. The path highlighted in GREEN shows the paths from CT1-C to M4. The last leg of the connection are the RED and BLUE lines. These are the connections made internal to S8 depending on if S8 is in 1 Phase L3-L1 or 1 Phase...

You could add some appropriate outlets to the 803 to connect your "load bank" heaters to. The output lugs on the 803 have lots of room for conductors. There should be no need to disconnect the wiring from the 803 to the transfer switch during load testing.

It's AC current "in" by way of the wires passing through each CT opening. They created a magnetic field that the coils inside the CT detect creating an AC current output. The AC output current is proportional to the current in the leads passing through the CT openings. The Percent Load Meter...

Also be sure Battle Short switch is turned off. See if the contacts inside of Relay K16 move as S1 is moved from Stop to Prime/Run. They should. *edit K16 is the Crank Disconnect relay. If S14 is bad/missing K16 will not move internally causing a no crank from S1 situation. If the set has a...

You could certainly try it. If needed, I have a test setup that can test them per the TM. If it fails I can troubleshoot and most likely repair it. Just finished up troubleshooting and repairing 7 of them last week. Failures I encountered were bad Q3 transistors, some bad Q1 and Q2...

Typically, the failure of the arm not lifting off the magnet is due to the magnet strength being set to high. Yes, it's adjustable. To adjust for less strength loosen the nut securing the magnet to the bracket. Screw the magnet inside the circular collar a bit deeper into the collar...

As Guy said no. The OP usually shots up to about 125 PSI quickly after starting. Way more than the 15 PSI LOP cutoff.

Shutdown comes from the A2 Fault Monitor. When a fault is reported to it A2 turns the K12 FAULT relay on. K12 is the leftmost relay behind the gauge panel. When tripped K12 will have an LED on it in. When that happens K12 removes power from the Governor Controller module causing the engine...

The OP switch's fail fairly often in the 831's. Hopefully you actually do have oil pressure! You can disconnect one of the wires to the switch to prevent it from reporting/falsely reporting that fault. ** If there is a real OP issue it won't shut down!