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I just installed ECO hubs on a 30k lb C7 MTV with 3.07's this last weekend. That makes 5 trucks I've installed or assisted installing ECO hubs on. He does have the 370 HP M-ATV engine swap. Zero complaints - definitely made his top three of best modifications. Climbs hills the same as before...

No lakes or tar pits nearby? I guess if all else fails you can go on a walkabout and try to throw them off the end of the Earth so they can no longer hurt anyone else.

Yes you best correct the driveshaft phasing before you wreck the transmission, differential yokes, and possibly a lot more. I wouldn't move the truck till the driveshafts are pulled and rebuilt/balanced.

PCU is the pneumatic unit on the passenger floor. The CTIS Controller with the button pad is what does the coms. Separate modules.

Army wheeled vehicle mechanics are definitely not professional HVAC technicians and while they do get some training on vehicle AC systems it's sometimes a struggle for them to isolate the exact cause of a malfunction so Red Dot integrated a basic self-diagnostic computer that helps to direct...

If it's just a jumper - cut the wires off the connector and crimp them. No need to make this more complex.

It's all fundamentally web based - hover over the schematic link and the path to the image file pops up in the lower left of the window. ;)

Sadly what you are now beginning to realize is that you actually wanted an A1R truck (2004+) with a 370 HP Cat C7 and electronic throttle, cruise control, and all the other nice-to-haves. Best thing to do - find someone that wants what you have and then find an A1R. Trust me - it's the dream...

You are fundamentally correct. It's not a protector - it's literally controlling the whole system and has direct control over the compressor clutch so unless you get the transducers it's expecting and put them where it expects them - expect it to not function.

That's gonna be fun to figure out! The computer uses transducers and controls the clutch itself. Lovely. I would rip that off and rewire it as a trinary switch system. Otherwise call Red Dot and bend over till you can kiss the ground.

MME pulling the fuse to shut off a cranky ABS warning lamp....... Naw they would never do that. :rolleyes: Yeah we need to get you hooked up with WABCO software.....

Yes I can pull the diagram for that system. That's a later Gen II with the intelligent monitoring computer. I haven't installed one of those but it shouldn't be a huge deal.

Correct - just divide by two for the reduction delete.

But at what duty cycle? Also they are over $1k. Not really much cheaper per-amp than the Niehoff 260A in the surplus channels. Which tend to be about $2,500 on a Wednesday. And can find them a little cheaper if you look around and message some forum members, etc.

That is the pressure protection valve that limits the CTIS and radiator fan to only receive air when the wet tank is above 95 psi. Probably best to just replace it.

All of the Haldex RNT26 kits I have bought came with an instruction sheet.

Nope. There's an instruction sheet in the kit. You will have to make your own tool for removing the valve cages.

Agreed. Power study suggests you could get away with a 100A alternator that is at times pretty close to running at capacity..... On the other hand, the 260A in the same circumstances, will only be running at 1/3 to 1/2 it's rated capacity. Meaning it will run cooler and easily tolerate sending...

As a contrary to Ronmar - no disrespect intended or implied because there's plenty of ways to skin this cat and it's down to what you are personally comfortable with - I would point out that the 260A is the standard alternator used on all A1P2 trucks and I have no reason to believe it's any...