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I don't think any have the capacitor on the outside...that's strictly military for radio interference. Not needed, but you can get an extra one from the rebuild kit and put one on it if you want. Unless you're running radios you won't need it.
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Does that mean your gonna get that saw out of the box? Don't tell me you haven't charged the batteries for that lawn mower yet!! Rain should be done by 1!
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Pop in the tm and find an nos original. There's a bunch out there. I think eastern surplus has them. I've got 2 but my own stash. Stay away from parts stores they'll sell the wrong stuff or junk plenty of original stuff out there.
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I rebuild all mine. Not expensive and easy to do. Things I look for is the lower bolt bushing is loose and greased...the front housing sometimes is hard to get out of the bearing.
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Out of curiosity are you going to pull the 700 apart to see if a sun gear, planetary or sprag gave out? They are known for that. Tough to test a torque converter but the input shaft could have stripped out but you can see that if you pull the converter off.
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If you can't find fusible link local, you can order some online plus some extra for the next one. If they have an assortment that works best. Could be the old connection from that alternator hit ground and cooked.
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It varies big time...I have one that's pulling 45 to 50 hg and one that just hits 15. I've added 2mm hose to the ip studs to increase throw on that one to raise the shift point.
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No there's the spindle that has to come off first. There's 6 nuts that hold it on if I remember right. I've used several methods of getting it off after they're taken off. A big dead blow hammer has worked on non rusty ones and a nice sharp cold chisel for the sticky ones going around the...
If you still have your cover off do you have a led flashing at the bottom of your board? Mine just had the inside fans not turning on and the compressor not kicking on. I get 5 flashes out of it. Not sure where the magnetic pickup for the hood is that let's it know the lid is shut but I think...
That vacuum will work fine. Ac is very easy if you know the basics...I play with the charge and see what the system runs best at, not a certain weight of charge. Compressor temp and temp inside the cooler are things I watch. If you have the original paperwork for these, they have full schematic...
That repair looks great. You know more than letting on...most people wouldn't try that fix let alone know what or spend the money on staybright. I've done hundreds of both repairs but usually save the stay bright for compressor replacement due to cost. Did you get a good vacuum on that setup...
I'd use the 12 volt block up by the glow plug relay...stick the dvom in there and see what volt draw you have. Unplug the alternator.
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