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Is the C-Clamp an 8", 10", or 12"? I'd like to just get one prepped. 10" will do it. An eight might be too close for comfort, depending how deep your socket is.

Not sure where I got them but found them for $15 a few years ago. I also seem to remember a place called Race Mart having them a long time ago.

Here's the socket and clamp. As you can see, it was a used and abused old clamp that I had already cut and extended ( and bent ) for another side project, but it was the perfect size for this task!

Definitely not coolant, it behaves totally different when you drip it on the paint. ;)

Yup, they work on exactly the same principle are a pair of valve spring retainer, just 20X smaller and 100X harder to grab with ANYTHING! The trick I found was to pick them out with something magnetized, like a small pick etc. just don't drop one and loose it in the mess on and around the...

I could take a picture when I get home from work tonight. Essentially it works on the same idea as a valve spring compressor, only with a screw clamp rather than a squeeze clamp. In the Ambac service manual they basically show a tube with a hole cut in the side being used in an arbor press to do...

Great news that you can fabricate things. I will send info to your email, but for others here, the most helpful tool I made was to take a 5/8" deep socket and cut out about 1/3 of it, essentially creating a slot all the way down 1 side ( looks like an oxygen sensor removal socket ) then welded...

Because I'm ignorant on casting porosity, I did some googling on it and at some point GM had a recall for some blocks with porosity. One of the solutions was they coated the area with RTV. If, by chance, the dye doesn't find my leak, I may give the underside of the block a coating of it and...

With casting porosity it can take a while to emerge. My brother had a jeep wrangler 4.0L back in like 93', bought it brand new and had it for a couple years before a strange oil leak developed at like 20K miles. They eventually replaced the motor under warranty saying it was a porous casting...

Yup, Exactly! I was in agreement with you ;) and I also need to rephrase... that's the rear of the engine not the front ( I was still brewing daily coffee #1 at that time ) so I'd suspect a leak up top on a return line, pooling up on top of the head and dripping down, not the return line...

In my mind I thought it looks more like fuel than oil as well, but hard to say from a distance. Perhaps give the foam pad under the engine a squeeze with a paper towel and see if you can get any liquid out of it. Are you using road diesel or dyed fuel? check the color and smell, if you can get...

I know several others mentioned they would shy away from the IP until 100% sure, but me personally I have seen so many issues with the garbage fuel these days causing IP problems after sitting for a few months, I would just bite the bullet and take it off and go through it, paying close...

Either your gage or your sensor might be bad. The thermostat should stay closed until the engine gets up to about 180, regardless of load or ambient temp, allowing the engine to come up to operating temp. Only other possibility would be if the thermostat is stuck open and the engine isn't...

Well, at this point I'd say the fuel delivery system should be all set. The smoke thing has bothered me from the beginning and it is now seeming more and more like an injection pump or injector issue as CB mentioned. A skipped plunger guide in the pump would have a similar effect, but typically...

Either I'm misunderstanding you, or something isn't adding up. It sounds like you're saying the gage is reading correctly, but the resistance you measured isn't up to spec.? That would indicate either an incorrect reading or an intermittent "dead spot" in the sending unit ( which is usually the...

Yes, you will also see red paint on the outside of the block because the engines usually have red primer under the green paint, so anywhere the paint has come off will often show the red primer. I think the coating on the inside is a different material, but a similar reddish color. it would not...

If it was a porous casting I would suspect you would have noticed it long ago, however, the inside of the block is painted with red Glyptal, so perhaps the paint was sealing it up until recently?? One idea might be to try using a UV dye leak detector, clean everything good, add the dye to the...

You would still see the fuel solenoid banging up and down on the IP lever.... rapidly! The only thing the Oil pressure switch and temp switch do is break the circuit to the Fuel solenoid, if that circuit is broken, even for a millisecond, it's only course of action is to disengage the fuel...

My thoughts on the Oil pressure sensor: If the oil pressure or temp sensor are on their way out the failure mode won't be a stumble or slow-down / bog down then die condition. it will be an intermittent Shut Off condition where you will see the fuel solenoid disengage and push the IP linkage...