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Yeah it's been fun dealing with that. I actually ditched one of the nuts to get things to line up better. Granted, I can't adjust the position of the wedge right now but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. I might just tap the wedge for a larger diameter all thread rod so I can just run...

Already got both :) Mine is in the delco box as well, pricey but gorgeous and perfect for these trucks. I spoke with the ebay guy that makes the converters and they are coming out with a new one that will work with the 6.5 engine speed sensor. Looking forward to using that in the future but for...

It does, thank you. I have the 15 tooth, I remember the color and the math checks out for my speedo readings. Looks like someone swapped a 44 tooth driven gear in, and I ordered a 43 but its still a bit off, so going for a 42 now and that should nail it. Speedometer rebuild locally is about $300...

I got a rebuild kit for my NP208 from torque king but it did not come with the correct input shaft seal. A youtube video directed me to a timken seal number 710928 which was a perfect fit. Searching that number brings up all kinds of options that I was having difficulty finding before.

Some math I did when looking into the nv4500 swap for my truck showed me that swapping to 3.73's will get you an overall ratio in second gear that is essentially the same as first gear in the th400 with 4.56's. This means second is like the old automatic first gear, and you still have the granny...

4.10s with OD would get you close to the same engine speed as 3.08 without OD like the m1009. 2000 RPM for 65mph. Even with 4.56 gears you're only looking at 2200rpm for 65 mph in OD.

Can anyone confirm the number of teeth in the np208 drive gear for a 1008? I'm pretty sure it's 15 and it's the same for a 1008 and 1009 but I want to make sure. Edit: did some more math, pretty certain its a 15 tooth drive gear. I pulled a 44 tooth driven gear out. Looks like the math checks...

I agree with it being backlash rattle, that's the same thing I've been thinking. The input shaft bearing I heated up and cooled the shaft and dropped it on, then I took it out to my shop press and made sure it was snug. The countershaft I just used the shop press.

Mine does it too! It's really noticeable with no shift boot on. Doing some research it seems that's normal for these transmissions. Or we both messed up our rebuild in the same way!

This one couldn't reach behind the bearing, it would hit the raised portion of the crankshaft and not get deep enough: This one broke, bending the horizontal arm, and I had to grind the teeth on the legs down to get them small enough to fit in: Truth be told, I think I just had some...

I still have the stock bellhousing for my 93 trans if needed

Not sure how a 6.2 clutch will work with the AA bellhousing. I know @erasedhammer used a 6.5 clutch with the 6.2 flywheel and AA bellhousing.

That would probably be a better way to go about it, I measured and drilled my holes in the middle of the spacer but the new trans setup is a bit longer. Slotting the cross member holes worked though and eventually I'll get the right cross member so no spacer is needed. I also got new bolts that...

I always get gates barricade fuel hose. Rated for 100% biodiesel and seems to hold up well over time

The frame rails being close are a problem too, but I'm slotting the holes in the cross member to allow it to slide back a half inch. I think the nv4500 setup is just a bit longer than the stock stuff, so I can't get the cross member and trans mounts to all align at the same time.

Fighting to get the crossmember on the frame now, going to slot the holes a bit to help with alignment.

Clutch is sorted, mostly. I had to chop down the pushrod in the kit probably half an inch or so, maybe even more. Since the clutch is hydraulic there is of course no freeplay between the face of the throw out bearing and the pressure plate fingers because the slave cylinder takes up any slack...

This pilot bearing was putting up quite the fight. Tried the grease/bread trick, no go. Tried a 2 jaw puller, no go. Ground down my cheap 3 jaw to puller to fit in there, it bent and broke. Got a 3 lb slide hammer, it just laughed. Started to cut into it but the shell is so thick I'd go bankrupt...

Fighting removing the pilot bearing... I got a new one to install bit leave out 3/16 of an inch. Just got back from harbor freight with a slide hammer since a pilot bearing puller can't reach down into the crank

Correct, 6.5 on the right. Everything you listed is all the same as far as I'm aware, they only seem to differ in weight and thickness. In the case of using am advance adapters bellhousing with a clutch setup designed for a 1 inch thick flywheel, I 5hink using the 6.2 flywheel is a key detail. I...