Search results

I don't have a 6.5 (yet) but that's the eventual plan. There is a definite difference in flywheel thickness and weight despite what people say

93 NV4500 into an M1008. I went with the bell housing, hydraulic linkage bracket, clutch, pressure plate, and slave cylinder as recommended from Advance Adapters here: https://www.advanceadapters.com/products/712577--chevy-v8--v6-engine-to-the-1993-95-gm-nv4500-5-speed-adapter-bellhousing-kit/...

Reverse should be synchronized in your trans. Mine isn't, originally, but you can swap in the synchro bits and do that, which is what I did. I also ditched the 1-2 interlock that was only found in the early trans as well.

I think you'll be ok. I think I'm having issues because I went the the AA recommended centerforce clutch setup. Luckily I have all the 6.5 clutch bits from the truck the trans came out of, so I'm going to take some measurements. I'm also headed out to pickup a 6.2 flywheel and the 6.2 clutch...

I was thinking about that, and Novak has a great reference page with throw out bearing measurements and part numbers, but if i put a longer bearing on then it would move the at-rest position of the fork even closer to the slave cylinder, and its already too far forward. I have the adjusters all...

Ordered a 6.2 flywheel to compare to a stock 6.5, since the 6.2 is heavier I'm wondering if it's thicker.. In the meantime I'm going to bleed my clutch and see if the current setup can actually release the clutch or not. How did you go about bleeding the slave seeing as how the bleeder screw is...

I have a LUK LFW126.. Looks like the 126 is for the 6.5 and the 201 is for the 6.2. I am under the impression both are intergangeable.

I have the Centerforce 165552 pressure plate and the 383735 disc, ordered off of the products suggested on https://www.advanceadapters.com/products/712577--chevy-v8--v6-engine-to-the-1993-95-gm-nv4500-5-speed-adapter-bellhousing-kit/ tech vault.

Here you go

Here's a shot from underneath, you can see how much clearance there is behind the arm and the bell housing. This is with the throwout bearing installed and resting on the pressure plate, with the slave cylinder rod adjustments all the way towards the slave cylinder. Without grinding, I can get...

Yeah I got the 715535 slave cylinder mount from AA and the slave cylinder I snagged from rock auto for an 85 chevy, pretty sure its the same. I can probably adjust the wedge to about the same position and apply some pressure to the plate. About how much throw do you have on the slave cylinder...

Question.. I'm wrapping up my swap now, but I have the 712577 bell housing because I have a 93 transmission. I think everything else is the same as yours though. As it sits, with the bell housing bolted on, the slave cylinder is adjusted so the wedge is as close to the cylinder as possible...

It also helps get rid of air in the lines. If it recirculated to the pump things would get bad....

3d printers are great. I was rebuilding the np208 in my CUCV yesterday and noticed I was missing some part hay would keep the o ring on the shift lever in place. Printed one up and now that seal isn't going anywhere. No clue what the original part was like but it couldn't have been much different.

That's where I figured it came from but why isn't it on the wiring diagram and where does it go 🤔

I have a loosey-goosey wiring dangling right around where the driver side alternator was that I can't locate on the wiring diagram. It's a small wire with a small ring terminal on it, black with white stripe. It's not the tach sense wire, too small to be the ground wire, not part of the two wire...

You replaced all the rubber fuel lines, including the one feeding the IP from the filter? Had that one loosen itself up before... When I had air leak issues I put a clear tube on the short fuel return line from the IP so I can see the bubbles. I noticed parking uphill made it worse.

Based on the photos at http://www.hillbillywizard.com/cucv-and-k30-parts/cucv-diagnostic-port-with-wiring-harness/ you can just unplug it from the engine compartment and remove it easy peasy.

Oof that's a tough question these days.... I know you weren't asking me but I figured I'd chime in, I paid $300 for a set of hydroboost pedals. Cleaned and painted them and managed to find some new bushings on ebay as well. I also had an almost 1/4 inch deep slot worn in the clutch pedal pin, so...

Im going to try fabbing a tcase shifter that bolts to the top cover of the transmission. Should eliminate some of the funkyness you get when the truck twists offroad and messes with the alignment of the tcase and shifter. It will also give me a chance to bring the tcase shifter further forward...