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The rear can be removed and replaced with a floor jack and a piece of chain and assorted hooks. Having said that I DON'T RECOMMEND IT FOR AMATEURS , IT'S DANGEROUS, LIKE LIFE ENDING DANGEROUS IF YOU SCREW UP.

Blow it out from the inside out with compressed air, reversed vacuum won't do it. Not so hard as to tear the element. You will see when the fluid is gone. A red shen on it won't hurt. My 2 cents.

There's a pinion gear in a hub??????????? Too much time on the beach is my guess.

FYI... don't know about the situation presently but Mile Marker used to be pretty uppity about any part with a government part number . Some have had good luck others not so much. My 2 cents.

Is that all you have??? I have the "near" complete kit and although I have not looked at the thing in a while I'm pretty sure there are a couple of brackets, a hand full of grade 8 bolts, the plug that is mounted in the dash with the wiring to the solenoid valves on the winch and a controler...

THANK YOU, I usually don't like changing much on the truck but I think you have found an item to improve on THANKS again.

A red one???

OR............ 2 very clean 5 gallon pails and several feet of fuel line........ one pail with CLEAN FUEL and a line to the back of the pump..... the other pail with a line from the filter into the pail........ crank it up and wait........... runs ok needs a complete fuel system clean up, tank...

A little splanin on the custom made thing please. Who, What pieces, Where......... Thanks

If he does lock rings he probably will do anything!!!

The "grease" they are talking about is to hold the push rod in place while the pump is installed. I personally leave the plate on the block if there is no oil leakage and use a strip of flexible plastic to allow the pump arm to slide under the push rod . Works for me. The grease method works...

No No No .......... Getting the tire shop to change them!

Bu cutting your strap off so there is just enough to complete the loop and "lock" itself when it is ratcheted it gives you more room on the ratchet to pull it up further. Just my 2 cents.

Let us know how that goes.........................................

After reading through this I think a small step has been omitted. I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong! You need to get the pump "push rod" in a fully retracted position, maybe you saw that in your read through of the info available here? A wrench on the back of the crank balancer can rotate...

As ACTION pointed out to me recently the later trucks actually do something to this effect. I plan to cheat the process a little and rout my 9 and 11 series trucks vents up behind the air intake where the system is currently vented. It's my humble opinion that is one of the few improvements...

YUP, the mechanical pump can do it by itself if the diaphragm leaks. Guess how I know!

Time to drop the oil pan and have a lookie see.

Removing the small cover at the nose of the starter I think will provide all the bad news you seek. Starter spins but doesn't engage, starter comes out. Missing teeth on the flywheel, flywheel comes out. Flex plate actually, before someone corrects me.

If the truck is "new to you" I would replace it initially then wash it out, not "brush" it out as long as it looks ok or for a couple more changes, Its the water seperator. Fuel will pass thru and the water should accumulate in the bottom of the filter. Drain it regularly into a clear container...