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Find a Chevy donor pickup and put the Duramax with axles and drive train under it. No way a brick with a 150 HP is going 75 mph.

Put the multimeter leads on the batteries and read the voltage there. If the battery voltage really is 11 volts each, I have a hard time believing it would start.

This is not hard, there is a sticky at the top of the CUCV forum on how to test the alternator on the vehicle. If you can't figure out to test it, take it and get it tested. If it's doa, send it back. We absolutely will disagree. Most if not all of the units (not limited to alternators) my...

Having watched many of the CN alternators in acceptance testing, much to my surprise the CN units were as good or better than many of the OE unit's. Certainly better than the Mexican and other third world units I've seen. Maybe it's because they have been doing it longer.

Click the Amazon link. https://www.amazon.com/Alternator-27SI-100-Military-90-01-4277/dp/B07ZHN8YS4 This is the isolated ground version.

It's a capacitor for radio noise suppression. It doesn't affect alternator function. Take the alternator and get it tested or do the test sticky at the top of the CUCV forum.

When diagnosing a charging problem, test each alternator/battery combination separately. Each alternator/battery combination is it's own system as far as charging goes. That's the reason for the isolated ground. With the engine running they should have about 14.8 volts.

Both alternators should be isolated ground if they are original to the vehicle. If you are not sure if the alternator works, take it to be tested or follow the testing sticky at the top of the CUCV forum and just connect the alternator directly to the appropriate battery as described in the test.

I suggest you start your own thread to deal with your specific problem.

Regitar USA is the company name. They are a distributor and are owned by Mobiletron. Mobiletron is the manufacturer with plants in Taiwan and China.

What's the manufacturer or vendor?

All of the parts are made in China. You don't say if the alternator is an original isolated ground. Assuming it is, do this. Click Here. If it still doesn't charge correctly while testing, disassemble the alternator and check the regulator mounting screws. All three should have a insulating...

Money well spent.

Looks like a fender washer to me.

Call and talk with them. You might find they are flexible depending on the circumstance.

The "big red wire" you are referring to and have highlighted in the diagram is the B+ lead for the alternator. I would think a 20 amp fuse is going to be a little small for a 100 amp alternator. 13.87 volts from an operating alternator is low. The regulator set point is 14.8 volts. If the...

Do this first. Take the wire(s) off alternator #2's negative terminal and tape them up. Run a test wire from alternator #2's negative terminal to the negative post on the rear battery. Verify the large wire connected to the positive terminal on alternator #2 goes to the rear battery positive...

I think I may see your problem. The ground terminal on alternator #2 does not connect to the chassis ground, only to the negative battery post of the rear battery. Since the positive post on the front battery and the negative post on the rear battery are connected (the front and rear batteries...

If this is an isolated ground alternator and there is no connection to the isolated ground terminal (I don't see one in the picture), the alternator will not work. If you were to connect the positive post from the front battery directly to this terminal and it's isolated from ground, it cannot...

Why don't you take a picture of what you have now so maybe we can help you?