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I've been having a tough time getting the nuts loose and off one of the rims on my M35A3. I don't think the rim was ever apart, and the nuts were possibly overtightened at the factory.
I've been using a borrowed torque multiplier to get them loose, but even halfway up the stud, my torque meter...
I think it helps that the wheel and rim lug nuts have a range of torque that's acceptable, that way someone can use a torque multiplier to get close enough. I'm an engineer at heart and want as much accuracy as I can get, though. So I was able to find a torque wrench that I could afford and do...
I feel like I get more utility out of a torque wrench. I can use it for multiple torque values instead of just topping out at one with a torque stick.
I recently bought a 3/4" drive Armstrong dial torque meter from a suspension shop for about $200, calibrated as of last year too. It goes up...
1) I think Shell Rotella T would be okay for the truck. That's what my dad and I use in our trucks.
2) I don't have a multifuel, but I can't see why road diesel without additives would be a problem.
Nice truck!
It sounds like an issue with either the switch itself or something on the parking brake lever pressing on the switch in a way that it works backwards, as in making contact when the lever is released. Other than checking the parking brake lever for something out of place that would be making the...
I agree, it does look foolproof. Obvious grounding eye is obvious, for one :p
I've never messed with the parking brake light switch and I hope I don't have to for awhile! What happens when you press the brake pedal while the light is on? I'm wondering if something else is backwards with the...
Are you sure you got the right switch? I'm not sure if similar parking brake levers on other trucks, such as the HMMWV, have a switch that's backwards from the M44 family of vehicles.
I'm assuming it's this part here which should be the same as those USAF deuces that were built with...
The parking brake light is supposed to be off when the parking brake is released. If it's on or flashing and the parking brake is released, it means there's a problem with the brake system, probably a leaky hydraulic circuit. In your case, maybe you have the wires reversed somewhere?
I can't see why not. Run flats go the same place in tires as beadlocks do, so I imagine they'd press the tire bead against the rim too. I'm not speaking from experience - never messed with run flat inserts before.
Unless you want your tires losing air and falling off the rim when they're run at lower pressures, yes :)
I believe the way beadlock inserts work is that they keep the tire bead pressed and seated against the rim regardless of tire pressure, keeping the rest of the air in the tire from escaping...
Unless you're using a CTIS, I don't think so. I want to keep beadlock inserts installed on my tires with the thought that if I have a fast leak or blowout while driving that the tire won't separate from the rim, assuming the whole tire isn't destroyed.
Ohhhh so this is for actually mounting the whole wheel back onto the truck! Making a chain handle attached to the rim to pull the wheel back toward the hub while tightening the lug nuts. Got it now (y) I'll keep that in mind in case I have any trouble with that part!
I need to get a few...
I didn't realize the 5-ton super single rims were narrower than the A3 rims. But they're a wider diameter?
EDIT: Nevermind, I see the 5-ton bead locks are the same diameter as the A3. Just curious if they're lighter or they just use thicker steel.