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The spacer is to prevent the float from binding on the step as it goes up and down with the fuel level

Guyfang you must be mellowing. I can remember when you would say "read the _____ manuals". Are you OK???

Having gone through the process of replacing the well nut a couple of times I would advise you to throw the new nitrile well nut in the nearest garbage can and read the "ultimate well nut". I have a torque wrench and know how to use it but the nitrile well nuts made me want to tear my hair out.

If your stove and dryer isn't making it register you need to check the actual load with a meter.

The spacer isn't to reduce the depth it is to prevent binding on the tank "step"you can see the step on the right hand side of the photo

The head torque on both my 831A's was way below specs. Oil seepage stopped when properly tightened.

They are available on occasion. You just have to keep punching in the NSN on Google and buying them as soon as you see them. I bought a pair last year and tried 2 minutes later for a second pair and they were out of stock even though a quantity of 10 was posted with the first purchase. I have...

Having spent my youth in Kapuskasing, Ontario Canada I can attest that square wheels were a reality for the first mile after start up at -40 .

My 803a had similar damage but not as severe. It was in mint condition except the rad filler tube had been twisted so the cap bound on the overflow tube. I was able to straighten it but I could never figure out how the heck it got damaged. There was absolutely no sheet metal damage.

Railroad ties just aren't going to cut it. A poured concrete base would be way way better

I brought my 803A home in my truck with front and back ratchet straps connected to the corner box attachment points. It didn't move at all.

Kurt I think you might want to reconsider. I thought we were talking about a VR for an 803A

The best option would be to buy Kurt's VR. It is very reasonably priced and has many positives including not needing the varistor and fuse plus it protects the quad windings. Save the old one for a spare in an emergency. I wouldn't have a 803 or 802A generator with the OEM VR now that Kurt has...

Good idea until you realize there are very few parts available for the 1040.

I wonder if Kurt will come up with a fix. It sounds like he has an inverter disassembled.

My 803A is a 2007, 15 hrs no quad fuse. It had a faulty low fuel sensor and didn't ever get deployed I would guess

Just scroll down on the forum list to "parts for sale" and list it.

Here are photos of the switch I have. I would guess Kurt has already fixed you up. Let me know. Ted

If it is the right switch you can have it for the shipping cost. I already mentally wrote it off as a dummy move. I will contact you when I can confirm the switch identification.