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Haha I think your 25 cents is probably worth more than a quarter. I'm just trying to understand how the regulator dying turns off the blower fan when battery voltage is still present. Of course I've driven several times the last few days and it won't act up now. It's waiting until the worst time...

Does the tach need IGN signal from the PCB to function though? These issues are somehow all related because they happen at the same time and recover at the same time. The PCB seems to be the only common point that I can fathom.

Thanks! I'm about to head to the store to see if I can find some well nuts. Their product page listing says the hardware required for installation is included minus the fasteners. It was about $5 worth of stainless steel screws and bolts that I had to buy. I'm not sure why they don't just...

I 3D printed some bow frame side rail brackets that I will use until I can get the real metal ones. Should get me by for a few days until Midwest hopefully sends the missing stuff.

Guess I should have google'd it first...

I actually dug through the bins at Lowes today and found those. Lowes didn't have any that seemed like a close enough size to fit so maybe I will give Home Depot a shot tomorrow. I have to admit I was looking at them and couldn't figure out how they work. What keeps the whole thing from just...

Someone sent me a PM and said it would be helpful if I could provide the list of parts I had to purchase to restore the deep water fording system after GP gutted some pieces of it for whatever stupid reason they do that. So in case it is helpful to anyone, here is what I had to purchase to...

The soft top conversion kit and doors showed up yesterday. Unfortunately, the hardware to actually install the soft top was missing from the box and I am not yet having any luck getting Midwest Military Equipment to send the missing hardware so I am dead in the water for now. In the meantime...

I've never driven a non-turbo one but I was pleasantly surprised at the power that mine does have. It isn't a rocket ship but it isn't as slow as I was expecting either and my other car is a Tesla which is quite fast. I found the auction listing for yours and it looks like it should clean up...

Wow! Great find! I paid $15k for nearly that exact same truck last October and mine is a year older with a few thousand more miles.

Exactly the same as mine. I'm not sure I like the afterglow. It can't be helping the glow plugs to have a long life.

Afterglow on my yellow label box runs the plugs for one second pulses for 2 minutes after cold start. You should see your multimeter pinging from 0 to ~28v if afterglow is running. I can also hear an audible change in engine pitch every time the glow plugs are energized on my truck.

It happens when the A/C isn't running even or if Heat is selected instead. You can also hear the engine pitch change slightly when the alternator starts charging again (volt meter returns to green range). It's the same sound change as when the glow plugs are cycling right after a cold start so...

It's that 2006 M1152 in my signature. It has the 200 amp alternator. I suspect the PCB is cutting the output for tach, alternator field current and accessories for some reason or perhaps the PCB is losing the AC rpm signal from the alternator and shutting those things down? I'm not exactly sure...

Sure is. I need to follow that back to see where the source of this issue is. Maybe the PCB is cutting power to the tach, accessories and alternator field current but somehow not the gauges and IP fuel cutoff solenoid. I'll have to study the diagrams more closely to see if that's even possible.

You know what is also interesting is the PCB seems to somehow control the A/C fan power because the blower runs for about 2 seconds after flipping the ignition to OFF. I am thinking its that "+24VDC from control box" signal to the speed switch. I need to see if the tach signal passes through the...

Very interesting find! Now that you mention it, I am not sure that I ever specifically stared at the fuel gauge when it happens. I just know temp gauge and definately the voltmeter are still functioning. I'll try to get some video next time it happens to document the behavior for a closer look...

Awesome! Just what I was looking for. After looking at a bunch of pics it seemed like it should be very straightforward but it wouldn't be the first thing I thought was straightforward only to find out halfway through there is some kinda hidden gotcha. I'll order just the brake side from Mac...

Good idea. I wish I could easily recreate it in my driveway so I could check a bunch of things but of course it only seems to happen when I am out driving around.

I am probably wrong but I have a vague recollection of reading somewhere the turbo trucks get the tach signal via the alternator/regulator. The dash gauges stay operating but the voltmeter does dip down due to the alternator not supplying current. You can hear the reduced engine load when this...