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I'm a farmer. We do EVERYTHING for ourselves. Thanks for the help.

I have the TMs on my computer at home. Unfortunately, I'm way out on my farm and only have my iPhone right now. A little help would save me a LOT of hassle and running around. Thanks

LOL, that's the first thing I thought of too.

What/where is the TPS valve? Thanks

Yesterday I had to merge into heavy traffic, so I floored the throttle and the truck responded normally. It shifted at the correct, later, points and everything was fine. Now, it will ONLY shift at those shift points, regardless of throttle position. ( 1-2 shift: 28mph, 2-3 shift: 39mph) When I...

10lb was the smallest I could find with a metal head.

After some trial and error, it turns out the extinguisher bracket takes 8-32 hardware. I tried mounting the new extinguisher I bought with these size bolts and I have NO confidence in their holding ability. The hardware is far too small. I'll be welding some new studs to the floor bracket and...

I will. I've got a tap and die kit somewhere (I just moved) that would be a big help. Maybe I can uncover it before I make it to the hardware store.

Ok, thanks. I'll pick up an assortment and see what I can make work.

Does anyone know the bolt thread size for the fire extinguisher bracket on the floor of these trucks?? My oh8 didn't come with an extinguisher, but I'd like to use the stock floor plate to mount the one I just bought. None of the leftover junk I have in my bolt box seems to fit though. Help!!

That's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!!

I read the "Billavista" thread on Pirate 4x4 about the beadlocks, but I'm looking for some more H1 wheel specific info. I need to take apart, clean/paint and reassemble a set of H1 wheels for my M1008. Is there a TM section that covers these things with torque specs, etc.? Thanks!

I thought about doing a rear mounted tank too, until I stumbled across that bed. 3 tanks, now that's just greedy! :-D

If you delete the vacuum pump, what sends the vacuum signal to the trans and the fuel pump? Sorry for the hijack.

I'm in the process of adding a second tank to my '84 M1008. I wasn't planning on doing it, but I found a replacement bed (my original was hammered) that had the right side fuel door. I ended up scoring the right side tank, filler and brackets in the deal so I can run both tanks and not have to...

I was able to verify that it feeds from the bottom of the tank. We needed a little fuel for the heater the other day so one of the guys pressurized the tank slightly. We were able to freely draw the 5gal we wanted from that capped port. Hopefully I'll never *need* to drain that tank, but if I...

I don't know what it will do if you just put power to it. Mine would move from E back to about 1/3 when power was shut off. As soon as power was back on, it went straight to E. Basically it was stereotypical "bad sender" behavior. Fortunately I was able to stumble across the actual culprit...

I *could* just pull it and see, but as you can tell from the picture, GM (in their infinite wisdom and foresight) placed the sending unit EXACTLY between the cab and bed. Basically, they force you to drop the tank to pull the sending unit. Of course, I have a full tank at the moment. Jerks.

I saw in my brief search that a capped 3rd line leaving the fuel tank is not uncommon on these trucks, but does anyone know if it is a vent or a pick-up? I'm looking at adding an in-bed fuel tank and I'm wondering if I can use this spare fitting as a fill point. Edit: picture was upside down...

I just went through this same issue on my M1008 this afternoon. I cleaned grounds, chased wires and everything checked out. However, the fuel gauge would still cycle to E as soon as the key was on (with full tank of fuel). I ended up tracking it to a crummy connection between the gauge itself...