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When I did my front axle, the driver side axle gave me some fitting problems. When it came apart, it was revealed that 3 of the 4 outer ball bearings were worn/misshaped. Replacing them was easy, getting them back together was a little harder. I ended up leaving the axle shafts in the HOT...

It's not that hard to get to. It is easier if you remove the light switch though. You can take a flat head screw driver to remove the lever, then a pair of pliers to remover the nut that holds it on. If you are replacing the switch you have to plug the 3 wires in the same as the old switch.

That's hard to say, all the transmissions I'd normally float through gear were not equipped with synchros, so it was never considered bad to do it. Just as long as you don't grind the gears. When you have 10 or more gears, it does save some wear and tear for the clutch and your leg too. Once...

I do, but only from 4th to 5th and from 5th to 4th. The lower gears can be hard because you have to control the throttle more precisely due the how big the gap is in between the gear ratios. The bigger gap allows the engine enough time to rev down. From 4th gear to 5th gear is much easier...

Yeah, I took that picture when I first got the steps/cover for future reference. I didn't think to disable the flash.

I hope this helps

They Hemtt wheels WILL stick out a little further, but the wheels will be within the 8'6" maximum width. Also, you might have to adjust your will stops. Mine barely rubs the pitman arm when turning hard left.

Don't forget to replace cork behind the outer seal. It fits in the tab groove behind the grease seal. You have to find some cork and carve it to shape. Also, some rtv sealant on the outside of the grease seal in the tab groove helps to. Here is a really good write up from jpekarek. 5 ton rear...

Amen Brother!!

I had a similar problem when I first got my M818. I thought the poppets were malfunctioning, but it turned out to be the sprag air cylinder on the transfer case. The rubber gaskets on the brass piston had been replaced with O-rings instead of the cup style gasket. It somehow made it seem like...

I'm very interested in this transmission swap write up. How soon?

No, that's not my truck. The photo is about 5 years old. I did look at it when it was up for sale back then, but I didn't have the cash at the time. I was thinking it was the same truck because of the winch, bumper, lights, and spacers on the front wheels.

I'm wondering if this is the same truck, if it is where's the train horn?

M818's have a short wheel base which limits the amount of space you have. Be sure to look at the width and length of the transmission, and how close the forward drive shaft is to the transmission. The M939's have the wider automatic transmission which use an offset carrier bearing to locate the...

If the bushing isn't loose or spinning in the mount, you'll need a 2-1/4" striking wrench. I used a 3 lbs. short sledge to turn it. The striking wrench is the one at the top. It can be a real pain for sure, but that's what it takes to do that job... that and lots of curse words.

If you buy the safety bar bushings for a 5 ton, you'll find the price is about 6 or 7 dollars more than the regular bushings. You can find some more here. With a similar price, I just save myself a lot of work and swapped out all 12 bushings.

They manufacture a version of the 5ton under license. They made a few improvements, but most of the truck is the same.

I got mine from Army 6X6 parts.

I'd suggest getting the South Korean safety bar bushings. They prevent the torque rod from slipping off if the bushing fails. To get the axle back in line, a good ratchet strap might do the trick.

M818's and other tractor trucks don't have the bumperettes either.