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2 of the switches I bought from SS members, the other two I found on ebay. The data plates for the switches were designed/commissioned by US6X4. I don't think he made those himself. I gave him the details of what I was looking for, and he didn't disappoint.

Here is where the ditch lights mount on the M809. This is the passenger side mount is a mirror opposite. The mounts do clear the windshield so as to allow it to lay down with out any interference. This is where I'm going to mount the Aux. Driving lights. The benefit of this design is that...

You're Welcome, but all the Thanks goes to you. Your quality work makes this project look like I found some N.O.S. parts, or so my friend from work said earlier today. I knew you put a lot of work into it, but seeing these pics really drive it home.

Just ask US6X4 for a pair of ditch light brackets, that would be a good place to start with some new lights

Now, I haven't done this to my 5-ton, YET. These just arrived today. It took awhile to get the light brackets, but when work slows down I'll start mounting, painting, and running wires for the new turn signa; lights with markers, new Auxiliary Drive Lights, the new Ditch Lights, and my Infrared...

When you where installing the new seal, did you use a driver/seating tool, or something else. You can always use the front hub cap to seat the inner seals. I don't this method would work on some different seals, but works well with stock seals.

I guess your setup would definitely put some sunshine on other drivers at night. For the headlight height issue, I have an idea in the works right now. My older M818 has more fender space for lights than yours, so my idea can work on my truck.

I like the bumper. I see you have lowered the lights into the bumper. Is that to be compliant with headlight height laws?

When I first got my 5 ton in 2016, I found a large mouse nest, and 2 dead mice in the air filter. The screen on the mushroom cap was damaged.

Wouldn't this be a M812A1, and are those the wheels and spacers from a bridge truck?

IN

Two group 8D's will crank the NHC-250 engine in a 5 ton without a problem anytime of year.

IN

Pretty much. I found a switch for a different military truck. The one I have on my truck uses the packard electrical connectors. I also used some Y connectors too. Pretty easy to do, took me about an hour to mount everything up.

HAAAA!! :LOL:

You have to plumb a pressure switch into the air line for the reverse sprag. I don't know the part number for the switch, but it is a military part. Then run a wire from the stop light switch, that will be your hot wire. It will only come on when you turn on your stop lights and have air...

Wait, do you mean to say that you drilled and tapped the torque rod bushings while they were still on the truck? I can see how that would not be fun. I had some serious rot on my all of mine so a replacement was necessary.

Here are some picks of the back up lights and torque rods.

Here's a short list of things I've done this year, and this week to my M818. Replaced all torque rod bushings with the upgraded bushings with safety bar. Added backup lights using MyothersanM1's thread Back up lights and alarm thread as the model to follow. Thanks I replaced my rusted out...

Does any one know what sizes and types the tube and fittings are on the return line that connects to the pt pump? This is on a M818, NHC-250 Cummins. I was mounting my rebuilt pump and when I was tightening the return line, I never felt it get tight, or even snug. Then I notice the fitting was...