rustystud
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- Woodinville, Washington
Well I'm one step closer to my "Alaskan Adventure" . I finished the 12 volt towing box for my travel trailer. Now my deuce can tow any 12 volt trailer. Just plug it in and go. I have both the "7 pin Flat (RV) style" and "7 pin round (commercial) style" plugs. Plus the original 24 volt connector.
![002.jpg 002.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/482/482092-236c779ef83ab69924220f4135161e56.jpg)
![004.jpg 004.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/482/482093-42afa68e904aaa4a88830075be75e0b2.jpg)
![006.jpg 006.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/482/482094-fabf0b87f7e31bbfcea181e4c88ce40a.jpg)
![009.jpg 009.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/482/482095-cf9be5ce447fef7e309ebf14a9c29712.jpg)
![011.jpg 011.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/482/482096-b3a879a310e7c6b8477055c531f78127.jpg)
![012.jpg 012.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/482/482097-7682f989e40013a62883052c40451165.jpg)
![010.jpg 010.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/482/482098-bc2d6a225207b0bc4f94050e7173ce5a.jpg)
![016.jpg 016.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/482/482099-e9cd57a4cced1cc514fcff941286b03d.jpg)
This box controls everything. It has inputs from the "brake controller" on the dash to the turn signals and taillights and a signal from the air-pac for the stop lights.
The cable that goes to the back of the truck is a "10-gauge 7 wire cable" that is wrapped in a "nylon" sleave and then goes into a 1" PVC pipe that is clamped to the frame. The power inputs are 12 volt from the auxiliary battery and are #4 cable. Also there is the reverse signal from the nifty switch I got from "Peashooter" !
All connections are crimped, then soldered, then heat shrink wrapped. I have a spare "light module" and of course spare fuses. I made it so that if the light module goes bad I can simply change it out by just unscrewing the screws on the junction strip.
![002.jpg 002.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/482/482092-236c779ef83ab69924220f4135161e56.jpg)
![004.jpg 004.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/482/482093-42afa68e904aaa4a88830075be75e0b2.jpg)
![006.jpg 006.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/482/482094-fabf0b87f7e31bbfcea181e4c88ce40a.jpg)
![009.jpg 009.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/482/482095-cf9be5ce447fef7e309ebf14a9c29712.jpg)
![011.jpg 011.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/482/482096-b3a879a310e7c6b8477055c531f78127.jpg)
![012.jpg 012.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/482/482097-7682f989e40013a62883052c40451165.jpg)
![010.jpg 010.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/482/482098-bc2d6a225207b0bc4f94050e7173ce5a.jpg)
![016.jpg 016.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/482/482099-e9cd57a4cced1cc514fcff941286b03d.jpg)
This box controls everything. It has inputs from the "brake controller" on the dash to the turn signals and taillights and a signal from the air-pac for the stop lights.
The cable that goes to the back of the truck is a "10-gauge 7 wire cable" that is wrapped in a "nylon" sleave and then goes into a 1" PVC pipe that is clamped to the frame. The power inputs are 12 volt from the auxiliary battery and are #4 cable. Also there is the reverse signal from the nifty switch I got from "Peashooter" !
All connections are crimped, then soldered, then heat shrink wrapped. I have a spare "light module" and of course spare fuses. I made it so that if the light module goes bad I can simply change it out by just unscrewing the screws on the junction strip.
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