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1952 M35 Gasser repair and build

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
So tore down air pack, found this in first two minutes, kind of fell apart, breaks look old, as I had to pry a piece off cause it was stuck to the stud
uploadfromtaptalk1432590086086.jpg
Will post want ad shortly
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
rebuilt almost whole air pack, got fluid side done, still on search for cover, emailed Memphis, will see tomorrow if they can supply, if not, I'll get it welded, Thought I might have had a line on one here in NH, but from pics looks like the aluminum corrosion was starting to kick in. Guy also wanted $75, for the whole air-pack, which I couldn't quite justify when I need just the cover. great price, good spare I guess, but not right now, more pressing matters that need the money saved away for

I can't believe I didn't take pictures, but I don't think my air pack could have been any cleaner if it was new; sure there was a little dirt on fluid side, but I didn't even need to hone it, bore looked great after rubbing it down with a scotch pad.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
I got parking brake shoes in, cable and springs will be next, need to get a replacement bolt for the cable hold down.

started on drivers side axle, got seal and retainer in with thrust washer, washed all the hardware...but that was as far as I got. I ended up going for a ride with the parents in my dads CJ2A.

Don't think I posted this yet; and this is more for a reminder for me, but I got the silicone boot on the passenger side and the rubber boot on drivers, so if one fails I'll know which one. the rubber one I believe was a year newer based on the date stamp.

I'll try to remember pics tomorrow, been lacking in that department lately.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Got the end piece for the air-pack(Thank you Greg)

so finished that, little annoying, got the end gasket on, was sliding it onto the studs-Snap! broke the gasket, so I used some rtv- nasty stuff, try to avoid using it except as a last resort.

finally assembled(this is pretty much how it looked when I took it off the truck as well)
sdfa 391.jpg

and painted(guess the primer weren't good enough to topcoat, it said can topcoat within the hour, so I waited 45 minutes, think it was still too wet/tacky needed some more time, the green looked like it was cracking)
sdfa 392.jpg

and got the steering box all assembled, got a partial rebuild kit from George@White Owl, took the picture before feeding the horn wire through. my rubber plug was a little messed up, but I used some RTV there as well; will be using "00" grease upon install, so the chance of anything getting to that plug now is pretty small, I think with the oil, any sort of hill would allow the fluid to travel up the column, then into the extension tube for the horn wire(which I made a new one, the old one had the casing falling off from the 60+ yrs of oil baths)

m35 steer 001.jpg
I also took apart one of the windshield wiper motors, couldn't really see anything wrong with it, so I threw it back together. might have just been too cold, and too much moisture in the system when I tried them.

and some pics from yesterday when I started the drivers side axle assembly, the retainer for the passenger side should be arriving from Memphis Equip. tomorrow(Tuesday)
sdfa 390.jpgsdfa 389.jpgsdfa 388.jpg
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Got booster back in, and worked a little more on parking brake. Got springs on, pita. Need to work on the cable hold down-either grabbed wrong bolt, or threads are messed up. Really hard to see.

Installed the steering box. Pretty easy, except to line up bolt holes through frame.

Also should be getting brake hoses at some point next week, will just need fluid to have operational brakes...well still need to install the fronts, should go pretty quick, just need more nitrile gloves.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
m35 brakes 006.jpgm35 brakes 005.jpgm35 brakes 001.jpg

some pics from last night, still need to adjust steering box, so that is why there is a missing bolt, and still want to blow out the brake lines, so output is disconnected from booster

lookin at the picture of the steering box, guess I should have cleaned the frame a bit...at least it won't rust now
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Did a little bit today, got both knuckles all greased, axles installed, wheel cylinders rebuilt, brakes all back together.
uploadfromtaptalk1433639794172.jpg

Need to get more wheel bearing grease, already used 16 lbs, at least 10 of that was for the knuckles, another 4 lbs should do it to finish front bearings
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I pretty much did the same thing today. Everything took twice as long as it should cause I kept forgetting things and had to take-apart and re-do EVERYTHING! Some days it doesn't pay to get out of bed.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
yay!...or not, got drivers side all together, bearings adjusted, cleaned bearings for passenger side, pitted outer bearing and race, inner bearing race all scratched up, and no auto store in my town carries the 3994, 392, and 3920 bearings and cups, so I have to wait for tomorrow when my dad and brother go to work and hopefully can get the correct bearings.(they both work at a big rig/truck repair shop, Dad is a mechanic, brother works in parts)

sidelined again for an indeterminate amount of time. Do still have to wait for brake hoses from Peashooter(Aaron), and still have to order brake fluid, but still. At least all the other bearings were good, so I saved a bit of money there.

so coming down to the final details(minus a paint job, that will be done much later, still gonna go Stata Blue) but finish emergency/parking brake, finish lining fuel tank and install, headlights(got 24V H4 uprgrades), figure out why parking lights don't work, adjust steering box, finish steering wheel install, ignition tune up, coolant drain, flush and refill. cant think of anything else, but if it all goes well, should be ready to ride around at the end of the week
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Post up a video of it running when you are ready to drive if you can.
Will most certainly try, biggest thing I want to install is a 12 volt plug to run a Dash camera, just ordered a 24V to 12V converter.

also almost couldn't get a 392 bearing. My dads shop is Timken dealer, and well after talking with one of the Timken guys, they had NO stock in 6 warehouses. Luckily Amazon had some in stock so I snagged one. Could have ordered from a surplus dealer, but might not have been a guarantee of a Timken Bearing.
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
well my dad brought home the two races and inner bearing, total cost $47.50, just the outer from Amazon cost me $45.95.

anyways, got the races installed, outer bearing should be in tomorrow, so final assembly tomorrow night. past two nights have been kind of wet and very humid, so I haven't done as much as I would have liked, still hope to be driving it around the yard by the weekend though....or not, forgot I still need to get brake fluid; can't forget that now
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
All wheel bearings, knuckles packed, drums all adjusted, waiting for brake hoses, and waiting to hear back from Iris about brake fluid
uploadfromtaptalk1433982681734.jpg

This is the converter I got, 20amp model, 25 bucks on Amazon, should work fine for a single cigarette lighter, most I see are only 15 amp at best
uploadfromtaptalk1433982654832.jpg

Also put a couple coats of paint on the gas tank, really just to cover the sections that were rubbed down to bare metal where the straps sit
uploadfromtaptalk1433982780738.jpg
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,280
2,988
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
You also usually get a price break from "Iris" when you buy four or more gallons. I run DOT 5 in all my vehicles now, except the Subaru since it has anti-lock brakes. You cannot run DOT 5 in anti-lock brakes as the pulsating causes foaming of the silicone fluid.
 
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