1952 M35 Gasser repair and build

[Kaiser67M715]

Got fuel tank in, almost couldn't figure how to connect vent line-until I realized I was spinning the nut the wrong way, wasn't thinking about facing the wrong way.


Also got cable for parking brake in partially, need to actually find some boots for it, maybe the GM handbrake boots I have seen on eBay will work.

Redid that one kinked brake line, reused the rock guard spring, lines must be original, as they have some blue paint, insides are really clean too.

Seems the closer I get the slower the progress, but long days and some pretty severe humidity would probably damper anyone's spirit

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Didn't do much today, went to go look at a rust free 6.2 Chevy short bed. Rust free, yes, but everything needed work, frame was patched and welded at least twice on rear shock mounts, top flange had chunks missing, steering box section repaired and plated, needed front end work etc. Not worth my time or money,as it was not a $5,000 truck. And no interior except gauges and seat, he said usable, so I thought cracked. Dashpad, worn seat, normal wear and tear stuff. Plus he broke windsheild, and never mentioned it!

Anyways, blew out rear brake lines, got the replacement one in, worked a little on parking cable, but that is a tight fit, so gave up for the day on that, filled up steering box with so "00" grease, will adjust later.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Well its been a while, but received my final brake hose, so put that in, did up the remote reservoir, mounted it to the firewall. Will bleed brakes tomorrow after double checking all the fittings. Then I will move the truck outside, need the garage for my new acquisition, a 1985 GMC K10.

I will try to register it this week, gonna try antique plates, restrictions aren't that bad. Two year inspection(I won't skimp on inspections), and less registration cost.

final things to do are, wire in a temporary circuit breaker, can't find the correct one anywhere(I tried Saturn Surplus, but they haven't returned any of my calls, and the online order thing doesn't work), finish parking brake adjustment, ignition tune-up, get a new muffler, fill up the fuel tank and hope it works...oh and get a mechanical air gauge so I can have a fuel gauge.

 

[gimpyrobb]

What breaker are you looking for?

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Part number 7760416, Douglas connectors, the one with different size connectors, I have a want ad up, has the NSN. Need it for the horn to pass inspection.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Well registration is going to be harder, started a thread in Conversations. But I guess I need a Title for it being a tri-axle truck. I didn't know that, even though I thought I read through all the laws.

To Be Continued....

 

[Kaiser67M715]

bled the brakes, got most of the old fluid out, gonna run it, then have a go at it again, I blew out the lines before refilling, but the fronts still seem to have a lot of old fluid, although it looks clean.

regristaration may be a go, went to my dads shop, they called the DMV in concord, Concord said fill out VIN verification, and an affidavit for title, because no matter what Connecticut required NH law is any three axle truck requires a title, so my dads shop filled out a Vin Verification form, and because the Owner is an authorized Notary as well, filled out an affidavit for title for antique vehicles. Gonna go back to the town clerks tomorrow and try again, but I foresee no issues now.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Registration is done, still need insurance, but maybe I will be driving it on the road next week.


From another thread I started because to of the registration difficulty-

So I got plates and registration, I do not know how smooth it went at the town level, I had my mom do that so I didn't have to miss more work then I already have this week.

but she was in and out within half an hour, picked me up and we went to the Keene DMV to finish up. went pretty fast, gave the lady a copy of certificate of title(this was produced at the town level, from the Affidavit for Title on Antique Vehicles.) the registration form(again the town started it, but state has to finish) the bill of sale and the VIN Verification form.

the affidavit for title costs a total of $27.00 to complete and send in, state fees were around $13.50, town was $12.00,

Primary use for a vehicle with antique plates is for car shows, and other public interests, which I have no problem with, figure I can still use it every now and again for personal use

 

[Kaiser67M715]

well, put brake lines back on the list, while most of them look clean, the front frame has the tiniest pinhole, what kind of rubbed away with my fingers, turned into a rust bubble, so I will go and do ALL the lines, going expensive with FedHill nickel/copper line. Kind of good that I caught it, but still annoying, as a whole the lines looked really clean, and I've now wasted 3/4 gallon of B.F.

 

[rustystud]

well, put brake lines back on the list, while most of them look clean, the front frame has the tiniest pinhole, what kind of rubbed away with my fingers, turned into a rust bubble, so I will go and do ALL the lines, going expensive with FedHill nickel/copper line. Kind of good that I caught it, but still annoying, as a whole the lines looked really clean, and I've now wasted 3/4 gallon of B.F.

That's why I always recommend replacing all the brake lines on our trucks. Especially those running single brake systems. With the new FedHill brake lines you'll be able to pass this truck on down to your children without worrying about the brake lines rusting out.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

is there some sort of trick to flaring the copper line? can't get a decent flare, and now have a line that is probably too short to use, gave myself an extra inch, used 3", made 4 terrible flares. I can flare some 1/4 and 5/16 steel line I have perfectly fine, I just cant get the copper to do it. I even used two different flare kits, with the same results. one kit is my dads, he has had for at least 20 years, mine I got about 2 years ago, done at least 50 fittings with it. both are the simple(but quality) type one can get at the auto parts store

 

[peashooter]

is there some sort of trick to flaring the copper line? can't get a decent flare, and now have a line that is probably too short to use, gave myself an extra inch, used 3", made 4 terrible flares. I can flare some 1/4 and 5/16 steel line I have perfectly fine, I just cant get the copper to do it. I even used two different flare kits, with the same results. one kit is my dads, he has had for at least 20 years, mine I got about 2 years ago, done at least 50 fittings with it. both are the simple(but quality) type one can get at the auto parts store

What brand cunifer line are you using? I've only had consistently good luck with brakequip "ezi-bend" and fed hill, I believe all other lines in the shrink wrapped coil packages are made by the same mill with different labeling. They tend to be thinner wall harder copper so they don't bend as well and can also not flare. I have returned some of the shrink wrapped coils before since I couldn't get it to flare either (neither could the brake supply shop that sold it to me).

 

[musmilhist]

I just finished a 1953 REO Air Force deuce I have a nice extra gas tank if you need let me know call me 904 548 0772

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Using FedHill, spent the extra $100 so I wouldn't cuss and moan over the thinner stuff; I bought a short section of the autozone stuff AGS? kinked the line twice.

I am pleased with the Fedhill thickness, it bends well, I just can't get it to flare, the flare ends up lopsided, or out of round.

I have double checked how far out it sits, the adapter(flares 5/16 steel fine) burrs, and lopsided cut, but nothing is sticking out at me

 

[gimpyrobb]

A trick I was taught long ago might help. Before you put the tube in to flare it, put it in the "grab bar"(not sure what to call it) upside down. Run a file across it to insure the tube's opening is flat, then turn it over and flare.

Before I was told this trick, I was maybe 45% successful, now I am closer to 75%.

Hope this helps.

 

[peashooter]

Using FedHill, spent the extra $100 so I wouldn't cuss and moan over the thinner stuff; I bought a short section of the autozone stuff AGS? kinked the line twice.

I am pleased with the Fedhill thickness, it bends well, I just can't get it to flare, the flare ends up lopsided, or out of round.

I have double checked how far out it sits, the adapter(flares 5/16 steel fine) burrs, and lopsided cut, but nothing is sticking out at me

Well assuming the tubing and flare tools aren't the problem, the only other thing that I could think of might be how you deburr the inside and outside of the tube where you cut it. Make sure it's even, maybe try one flare with more deburring and one with less. If that doesn't work call up fed hill and let them know. I've had to call the mfg of the shrink wrapped coil stuff and they ended up doing a recall of a bunch of 1/4" line because it was cracking when it flared.

 

[rustystud]

Yes with the deburring. I also take a file and make sure the tube is perfectly flat then I deburr it. Also make sure the proper amount of tube is sticking out. I always look straight down on the tube to make sure it is out the correct length.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

Well took some good extra time deburring that seemed to do the trick, seems to take quite a bit more then the steel line I use.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

And another near perfect one. Definitely needs a whole lot more prep then the steel

Thanks for the input guys

 

[rustystud]

And another near perfect one. Definitely needs a whole lot more prep then the steelView attachment 568910

Thanks for the input guys

This conifer line does need more prep work then steel lines do, but it is worth the effort. Just think, you'll never need to replace it due to rust ever again !