24v to 12v Question - Which Wire

[redwolf3]

Hey guys, finally found the time to finish up my 24 to 12v conversion on my M1009. I have about 90% of the conversion completed, and just have a few pieces left.

Specifically, in the Roscomm instructions, step 10. It says to remove the red 14-gauge wire on the smaller stud. They say that there's had a brownish-orange fusible link. On my setup, there were 2 wires that looked to be about the same gauge on the smaller stud. One had more red looking fusible link and one had what looked to be more orange, but in the picture they provided its hard to tell much more than that.

I am planning to just remove the orange one, but for some reason I dislike basing my entire selection on the color of the fusible link. Has anyone else done this and run into the same problem? I guess it would help if I knew exactly what this wire was used for and then I could just trace it to the right place.

Here's a picture of the 2 wires:

 

[redwolf3]

Well, nevermind, looks like the orange one was right. The CUCV LIVES! After nearly 8 months... haha.

Now its time to get some major maintenance done, the last major maintenance was about 4.5 years.

 

[appalacious]

does anyone know what these two wires do? (the red one and the orange one)
I'm having the same issue as this guy, and I'll probably just do what he did. I was just curious about the wires' purpose.
J

 

[doghead]

Why not post the question on Roscommon?

 

[appalacious]

I'm not sure what that is.
Link?
J

 

[TedG]

Try this...

http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/

 

[appalacious]

Cool site.
Didn't see a forum though.
Still hopin' someone here might know...
J

 

[doghead]

Cool site.
Didn't see a forum though.
Still hopin' someone here might know...
J

Have you looked at the Schematics in the TM's? Do you know what you are doing? Why are you doing what you are doing?

 

[appalacious]

Have you looked at the Schematics in the TM's? Do you know what you are doing? Why are you doing what you are doing?

lol
I love the earnestness.
I'm doing what the originator of this thread has did. That is, convert from 24V to 12V.

I'm doing it because I thought it'd be easier to diagnose/fix problems that way, being that it would be closer to the civvy version.

The REC instructions are pretty vague on the step in question, so I just wanted some more detailed info.

Yes, I've seen now that alot of folks are pretty taken with the 24V setup. Maybe i would've left it as is if I had read that, but I didn't before I converted it, and I have no desire to go back at this point. At least its turning over now.

I'm currently trying to diagnose gp relay/module issues. Apparently you really need glow plugs when its 10 degrees outside.

J

 

[mangus580]

I'm doing it because I thought it'd be easier to diagnose/fix problems that way, being that it would be closer to the civvy version

Not for nothing.... but how is hacking up your wiring, not really knowing exactly what you are doing, going to make it easier to diagnose/fix than a setup that many of us here can help you with off the top of our heads?

You realize that the military system is every bit as simple as the civvy. You just need to step back and look at it.

Good luck with your conversion. I hope it makes life easier for you.

 

[appalacious]

Not for nothing.... but how is hacking up your wiring, not really knowing exactly what you are doing, going to make it easier to diagnose/fix than a setup that many of us here can help you with off the top of our heads?

You realize that the military system is every bit as simple as the civvy. You just need to step back and look at it.

Good luck with your conversion. I hope it makes life easier for you.

thanks?

Maybe I should take a break from asking stupid questions (that no one can answer). I think I made mangus overheat a little.
J

 

[mangus580]

No overheating here... its like -1 out!!

I just have yet to see any real reason for wanting to convert it.... Personally I wish my wife's 99 Suburban was 24v.... My 1009 starts 10 times better than it! I guess I cant grasp why people think the CUCV wiring is that complicated. It really isnt.

 

[appalacious]

its complicated to the ignorant. And until i learn, thats what i am.
J

 

[mangus580]

its complicated to the ignorant. And until i learn, thats what i am.
J

So instead of arbitrarily converting it because you are ignorant... why not read up a little, look at the schematics, and ask questions?

Questions about the stock system are MUCH easier to answer, as opposed to some off the wall hack job conversion....

 

[m4A1]

If the wires you are talking about are connected together itsupplies 12V to the 12V components from the driver alt. and 12v to the pasenger Alt ground stud.

 

[appalacious]

If the wires you are talking about are connected together itsupplies 12V to the 12V components from the driver alt. and 12v to the pasenger Alt ground stud.

Thanks so much.
So I'm going to verify which wire went to the ground stud, disconnect it, and leave the other one that went to components.
J

 

[m4A1]

Yes, one goes off to the passenger side while the other goes to the drivers Alt. Disconnect the one going to the passenger side. Are you running a dual 12v or a single 12v system?

 

[appalacious]

dual 12v. both batteries are in parallel. I've already disconnected the alternator wires. My question was more about the smaller wires in the picture at the top of the thread.
J

 

[ida34]

The one thing I feel a need to add is converting the 24 volt system to 12 volt will not make the truck any easier to diagnose because you are not converting to the civilian 12 volt system. You are making an entirely new system that is just a modified military system. You will still have some civy mechanics stumped as to how to fix it. A good mechanic would be able to look at the military schematic and fix or diagnose the stock military 24 volt system. I only bring this up because you stated your reason for converting was to make it easier to diagnose. It will not be easier at all. If you had said you want to get rid of one alt because one had gone out or wanted to change to a more readily available 12 volt starter I would say you might have a valid reason. I am with Mike on this one and want to keep the thing 24 volt. I know some like having it 12 volt because of the problems associated with the glow plug system and they are a problem. I have only hade one problem with the glow plug system and other than that it has worked just fine. The downside to the glow plug system is the fact that the glow plugs are actually 12 volt plugs. The military wants the glow plugs to run off 24 volt so they can slave start the thing. This requires the large resister to drop the voltage to the glow plugs when under a load. The value of the resistor is calculated based on the load of all 8 glow plugs. When one burns out the load is less and the resister lets more voltage reach the glow plugs. This leads to more failures based on the higher voltage. Kind of like a snow ball rolling down a hill the more plugs start burning out at a faster rate until they are all toast. I had one wire come off one glow plug. A while later I noticed it was harder to start with longer cycle on the glow plugs. I found the wire off the plug and found three more burned out. This was a direct result of the one connector falling off. The military system also uses a much more complicated glow plug control system. I am not dumping on you. Just trying to give a little insight so you can learn the system to make an informed decision. Good luck with it.

Chuck

 

[ccequipment]

Sounds like you should of just painted a civvy blazer camo. The military version is really pretty simple, and really has very few 24 volt parts on it. They sure start up nicer, and make a good slave to jump my m35's