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5.9 Cummins, NV4500, Hydro-boost, and Disc Brakes

Unforgiven

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Mudguppy,

How are those front rotors mounted? Are they welded to the hub? You said the hubs were included b/c you bought multiple kits. So if you ever had to replace the rotors due to warping or gouging would you have to re-order an entire hub/rotor for Differential Engineering?

Also, is the "special" bearing race a commonly found one? I don't understand why the race had to be changed.
 

mudguppy

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Mudguppy,

How are those front rotors mounted? Are they welded to the hub? You said the hubs were included b/c you bought multiple kits. So if you ever had to replace the rotors due to warping or gouging would you have to re-order an entire hub/rotor for Differential Engineering? ...

the rotors, both front and rear, are assembled behind the hubs by pressing the lug studs through both.

from what i can tell, the rear rotors could be stock, but the front have a bit of machining on them to make them fit. so re-order is a 'yes and no' answer. but i honestly don't know how on earth i could ever go through these rotors. i think it would take a ton of miles of a fully laden deuce in heavy stop/go traffic to eat/warp these rotors...

hubs are OE items. he just threw in assembled hubs as a perk. otherwise, you'd re-use your hubs to make your own assembly.


... Also, is the "special" bearing race a commonly found one? I don't understand why the race had to be changed.
the 'special' race is just a 1/8" thicker bearing race. it just gets the hubs 1/8" farther away from the knuckle to increase clearance / reduce the amount of machining on the rotor. it's a standard part from Napa.
 

joec

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i'm not sure this would be the same - the alternator i used was the OE NipponDenso split-eared case (internally cooled) that fits under the stock 8-rib serpentine. any other 24V that i could find was a Delco style with large foot and external fan - this wouldn't fit well.

but if your part number would fit, well... dang.


I was side tracked so, I will have the number and take a look at it to take a picture of the alternator. Then you can compare to see if it would work.
 
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mudguppy

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So what was the conclusion on the upper end noise?
ran out of time today; didn't adjust the valves.

i spent the afternoon re-aligning the drivetrain (drilling a bunch of holes :roll:). i got the jack shaft aligned much better and took it for a hard drive; the vibrations that i was having is much reduced, although still there. there may be other issues elsewhere in the drive line. but it's fine for now.

i've got a ton of honey-do's tomorrow to get ready to head to FL for the holidays. i'm going to try and get to the valves to see if that takes care of it - i don't think i can be gone for a week wondering about that noise...


i ordered gauges the other day (all from VDO). i finally got tired of trying to work with Stewart Warner - they can keep them.

also, i got relays in the mail today, so i could wire up my headlights and aux lights...... but i seriously doubt i'll have time to do that.
 

jamesfrom180

Active member
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Gainesville/Florida
Mudguppy,
Just some encouragement my Popcorn is getting cold!!!! Can't wait to find out how the bober does in some mud or this year some snow! Hope the weather was to your liking down here in the far south, lol.
 

patracy

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VGT is the new cats meow in the diesel world. Variable geometry means instant spool and 1:1 pressure to boost ratio. It is turning the cummins world upside down.
Don't buy into the hype. The standard HE351vgt has the same turbine and compressor wheel measurements as the HE351cw. (60/60) The exhaust housing is the only difference. The cw has a fixed housing measurement of 9cm. The vgt is variable from 2cm to 21cm. The only true gain is the "exhaust brake" effect it can do. You're still limited to the ~35psi of flow the compressor side can deliver, same as the cw turbo. I had a vgt ready to install on my truck, until I learned all of this. So I went with a cw instead. Now the cats meow would be a HE451 from a ISX 15.0 engine found in heavy trucks. They use the same can-bus controls as the HE351vgt. The compressor and turbine wheels are larger on the '451.

yes, mainly the HE351V's from what i've read. however, i haven't seen a stand-alone controller yet - i've heard for a year that Fleece is working on one, but...?
Fleece has one, but only for 2nd and 3rd gens. He's not release, as of now, a standalone controller. A stand alone controller would need to monitor boost pressure, RPM, and throttle position on a mechanical engine to work properly.

There is one now from what I understand. $600...ouch
That's the price of the current controller. I'd have to assume the stand alone controller for mechanical engines would be even more costly due to the added complexity.

actually, what i don't understand is if that one is fully stand-alone or not. the video shows the dude turning the knob to open/close the turbo. neat, but i don't have a 3rd hand to keep tuning the turbo everytime i shift or mash the throttle. a circuit board and potentiometer isn't what i'd call a 'controller.'

actually it's a cheap-o Summit filter that's branded "K&N". :mrgreen: that is just to get me running. i would like to keep my BHAF, but it will require a mount and wierd intake tubing to fit - there's less room under the deuce hood than the ram... :roll:
I believe the video you're referring to is one of a young man that built his own "controller" from a linear actuator and a window knob to crank it up and down. Purely manual and not very practical. He removed the electronics and motor from the vgt turbo and pieced it together. More or less a proof of concept rather than practical example.

Do yourself a favor and ditch the K&N crap. Your engine and turbo will thank you. I've see too many dusted engines and chewed up compressor wheels from K&N's to ever run one. There's several sizes of "BHAF"s you can pick up. Just check the flow rating is over 410cfm and you're doing better than the stock filters dodge put on the trucks.

:beer:
 

Unforgiven

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Las Vegas, NV
Mudguppy,

Did your disc brake kits come with a Parts Number list for replacement parts?

Other than the custom brackets, it seem to me all the parts in the brake kit are off-the-shelf components.

While I applaud the engineering, I'm sticker-shocked by the price. It seems to me those kits should be half the price, including the machining of the hubs.

If he machined your hubs (or provided new ones) that means the rotors are out-of-the-box. Otherwise he would have machined the rotors instead. Likewise, the calipers are right from the warehouse. And likewise bearing race, seals, etc are stock items.

He should offer a "brackets only" kit and let us source out the rest. Doing two axles of his kit already exceeds the price of the entire truck!

I would be interested in parts numbers if you have them. Now I'm not saying I'm gonna rip the guy's idea off. I'm just saying I'd be curious to put together a price list of the components and see exactly how much the "custom brackets and machining hubs" actually costs.
 

mudguppy

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What's happenin with the truck there Mudguppy?
not much until, probably, next weekend. i got relays in the mail before i left and i think gauges should be there when i get back. so i've got a ton of wiring to do.

and, of course, i have that upper end to do on the engine to see if that rids the 'thump'.



Mudguppy,
Just some encouragement my Popcorn is getting cold!!!! Can't wait to find out how the bober does in some mud or this year some snow! Hope the weather was to your liking down here in the far south, lol.
i grew up here, but i don't miss it. the last couple days the weather has been nice (50's), but the early part of the week it's been ~38° and 90% humidity. i'm just so tired from roofing that i don't even care that the weather is nice. i just want it done.

and i do appreciate the encouragement. my popcorn is cooling off as well...
 

mudguppy

New member
1,587
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Location
duncan, sc
Mudguppy,

Did your disc brake kits come with a Parts Number list for replacement parts?

Other than the custom brackets, it seem to me all the parts in the brake kit are off-the-shelf components.

While I applaud the engineering, I'm sticker-shocked by the price. It seems to me those kits should be half the price, including the machining of the hubs.

If he machined your hubs (or provided new ones) that means the rotors are out-of-the-box. Otherwise he would have machined the rotors instead. Likewise, the calipers are right from the warehouse. And likewise bearing race, seals, etc are stock items.

He should offer a "brackets only" kit and let us source out the rest. Doing two axles of his kit already exceeds the price of the entire truck!

I would be interested in parts numbers if you have them. Now I'm not saying I'm gonna rip the guy's idea off. I'm just saying I'd be curious to put together a price list of the components and see exactly how much the "custom brackets and machining hubs" actually costs.
the rotors are machined, too. (i thought i mentioned that?)

anyway, the hubs and rotors are machined. from what i can tell, the rotors are machined a tad different front vs rear. i think the hubs are machined the same front vs rear, but i don't know that since they were assembled prior.

the brackets are obviously 'custom'. however, i think that the entire package is the trick - the hubs, rotors, and bracket alignment must be spot-on in order for proper alignment of the caliper on the rotor. besides that, there are certain other 'proprietary' mods done to the brackets; i'm guessing heat treating or other hardening methods so they will survive under the kingpins.

the short answer: yes, everything is 'off-the-shelf', but everything is modified.

here is a rotor part no.:
 

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