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5.9 Cummins, NV4500, Hydro-boost, and Disc Brakes

velheru

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olney, il
Mudguppy,

Awesome build! Very well thought out and planned. I hope to get a bobber deuce project going this summer myself. Quick question though, what are the measurements from ground to bottom of frame and bottom of each bumper? I want to do a bob on 53"s but have to contend with illinois ridiculous lift laws...

Thanks for any info you can provide, keep up the fantastic work, can't wait to see phase 2, phase 3, and beyond!
 

mudguppy

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duncan, sc
Update

so, i know it's been a while since i've last posted any sort of update.

i've been doing a lot of misc. type stuff. i think the electical wiring is about done - lights, horns, fan switching, air compressor, etc. i've used about 4000 zip-ties and 18 miles worth of e-tape and plastic wire-loom. that's fun. :roll: the only circuit left to wire is the wet tank drain solenoid.

i've recently installed a Viar compressor (380C) to complete the air system (pics to follow). it works well; i used an 85/105 psi switch which is about the lowest pressure switch feasible. this gives me plenty of air capacity since the only thing i'm using air for is the transfer case and horn.

btw - added an Ebay air horn for $50 shipped - i was following and contemplating the PVC horns but the pieces were going to be approaching that same cost, let alone build time. so, Ebay it was. and i'm glad i did - at full air pressure this thing is loud.

anyway, i also found out that my under-dash aux valve leaks like no tomorrow, so i need to replace it: it'll drain the air tanks to 0 psi in less than a day.

i've been putting several around-town miles on 'er. this thing drives amazingly. the ample power on tap is sooooo nice - imagine being able to actually accelerate to merge, catch a light, or just keep up with stop/go traffic. truly enjoyable.

oh - and it stops like a champ. gotta love having real brakes with real capacity and real performance. i don't know what else to say about that.

no, no videos yet. the weather is nice now, so maybe i can enlist some help shooting a couple vids. suggestions on what to shoot?

i haven't been off-road w/ 'er yet; there's an upcoming auto show i'm keeping her clean for. also, i'm focused on finding a trailer to purchase so that i may be able to attend Haspin - i really want to make it this year. it's looking bleek...

and i still have the winch to finish... :???:
 

tamangel

New member
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Location
Nor Cal Coast
no, no videos yet. the weather is nice now, so maybe i can enlist some help shooting a couple vids. suggestions on what to shoot?
here's one of my favorite vids, the GAZ 66.. maybe some ideas for your video shots and similar location types shown: (just make sure you are on the correct side of the road :) )

note old link died, substituting this one..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OXDkE-thqY



Mike
 
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Sutphensvc

New member
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Location
Bryson, Tx
I know that you're tired of wiring and such, but if you ever decide to regauge again, "Issopro" and "beedee" are very known in the commercial market and are easy to install and calibrate, plus you can swap out the tank sending unit with a probe style fuel sending unit.
 

jamesfrom180

Active member
532
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Location
Gainesville/Florida
Mudguppy-glad you are rapping up the final on this. Where did you mount the horns? and did you go with the train manual valve? Can't wait to see the final product. Should post up a new thread "this is the truck that should have been built".
 

mudguppy

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duncan, sc
Mudguppy-glad you are rapping up the final on this. Where did you mount the horns? and did you go with the train manual valve? ...
on the inside of the pass-side frame, just in front of the motor mount - a pic would explain better. guess i should take one...

the horns came with a 12/24V solenoid; my horn button doesn't work, so i just installed a push-button. eventually i want to take the steering column apart to find out what happened to the horn wire - doesn't seem to be one. :cookoo:

so i spent last weekend e-taping, wire-looming, and zip-tieing.

yesterday i finally got around to mounting the extra drive-side toolbox and step. i'm pretty happy with how that turned out.

i appologize - i will focus on getting some pics this upcoming weekend.
 

mudguppy

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duncan, sc
sure, Kevin - proceed.

the rears had the sticker on them; i don't remember seeing a PN on the fronts. i'll try to see if i can see anything on them now on the truck or if it was on any of the paperwork that Steve provided. the PN may be stamped somewhere not able to be seen since it was assembled on the hubs.

i don't think he provided those numbers, but the one mentioned in the Pirate link looks to be correct - that thread was one that i was also researching to DIY before i decided to just go w/ Steve's. even w/ the PN, there is still some machining needed to fit in combination with the thicker inner bearing races.

i'll go look and let you know.

btw, if i had to do it again (and figure i will in the future), i'd probably still pay to buy Steve's kit; at least for the front, likely rear(s), too. having the research, machining, and assembly done for a true bolt-on goes pretty far in my book. besides, Steve's caliper brackets are also machined and hardened for kingpin wear - not just a piece of mild steel...
 

cyrus-the-virus

New member
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Location
Washington
This thread is relevant to my interests.

How much pressure do you have to put on the brake pedal? Better/worse than stock?

ETA: Why is it that you didn't convert to full 12v? forgive me I'm not to familiar with the deuce, but is there equipment that still requires 24v?

ETA2: How hard and expensive is it to replace the brakes now?
 
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mudguppy

New member
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Location
duncan, sc
pedal effort feels about the same as my pickup, maybe easier.

didn't go to 12V-retro because of all the zillion other little things that are 24V, not including the existing electric winch in the back. i likely have spent more money in the route i went but like the fact that the high demand stuff is 24V.

brake replacement should be about as easy as any other disc brake equiped vehicle - couple of minutes once the tire is off. cost shouldn't be that bad, though pricier than an average pickup. however, if i even expected to get as 'little' as 20,000 miles out of a set of brake pads.... how long would it take to rack up that many miles in a deuce driven recreationally???? i'm not sure i ever expect to replace brake pads again.

oh - that and one more reason to add to the "why go disc over drum brakes" discussion: i can walk into any auto-parts store and get replacement brake parts. maybe not the same day, but likely the next day. i've never checked, but i'm not sure you can get deuce shoes or cylinders that quick/easy/freight-less ... ?
 

mudguppy

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Location
duncan, sc
thanks. for now, just repowering the winch to hydro. once successful, i may add another hydro winch for the rear if the electric doesn't seem to cut it.

after that, it'll be the standard increase in power, increase in drivetrain strength, and then see what doesn't make the cut from there.

it'll likely need a repaint next year, though...
 

rustyg

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Location
gap, Pa
Awesome work, Job Well Done!

But it's never "done" is it?
I just read all 18 pages, what you accomplished is inspiring.
I'm runnin big wheels too, so the braking upgrade is relevant to my interests.
I keep going back to the pics on page one and looking at your visor.
Is that something you built yourself? I would love to have some info. on that.
Thanks again for letting us tag along on your adventure!
 

einstein

New member
24
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Location
bountiful utah
So what transmission did you use with the cummins? If you had to do it over again would of you slid back the motor a little so you could use a mechanical fan? What clutch?


Matt
 
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