Ord22
Member
- 571
- 4
- 18
- Location
- Stockbridge, Ga
great write up and step by step instruction, with pics!!
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
My inner seal slides in and seats against a machined "step" in the axle housing. When the hub is installed, there is no place for the seal to go. It is firmly held against the machined surface.i disagree with the way you've done it. the inside bearing and seal should be installed in the hub first. the way you've done it, when you push the hub on it will just force the seal further onto the spindle because there's nothing to stop it. if you've ever installed an inner seal in anything you KNOW it has to be DRIVEN into the hub.it will NO WAY slide itself into the hub by magic. i've done ALOT of inner seals in my life of 60 yrs and i WISH it were that simple. as long as the outer seal is good you won't see any grease but i would'nt count on the innerseal keeping out water or dirt.
1.5" on my M54A2, plus the Budd nutsAnyone know the proper size wrench for the 5 ton hub nut?
now THERE is a snazzy trick I am going to have to remember.I am going to share a trade secret with all of you, this is something that we used to change inner wheel seals in the field.
Step by step
DO NOT DISMOUNT THE TIRES FROM THE TRUCK, IF YOU ARE SUPER SINGLED THIS WILL NOT HELP YOU!!
1.remove outer bolts holding in axle and remove axle.
2. remove outer seal, lock nuts, and retaining ring.
3. grab a piece of plywood about 4' long or longer and apply the contents of half a tube of generic bearing grease to board lengthwise about 6" wide.
4. jack up what ever axle you are working on behind the brakes, place the plywood under the entire setup with the grease directly under the tire contact surface.
5. slowly lower the axle assembly down until the tires lightly make contact with the plywood.
6. grab a hold of the entire tire assembly pulling away from the truck allowing the setup to easily slide on the grease with almost no effort.
7. spin the assembly around to access seal, bearings and pretty much everything.
8. reinstall in reverse order.
No broken backs, or marred threads and you can slowly install the unit watching to make sure the seal seats with no problems. As far as I know this has never been covered and I do all of my trucks this way unless I am flipping the hubs. Enjoy.
Respectively no you buy the right tools for the job.I've used a pice of tin on hard surfs when I couldn't find plywood. You use what you have were you are to get the job done.
This is true but at war I would not even worry about a leaking axle seal. It will run fine for months as long as no water is in the mix and the diff will allways have more than enough gear oil in the sump to lube it's self.Yes I likie the right tools for the job. When you are out in the bonnies you have to use what you can. I ran heavy equipment shops while in Air Froce and we had the correct tools and I do now for my own shop. But when you are playing at war or are at war for real you do what you have to do with what you have at the time.
We get it, advertisements are annoying!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!