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55mph detonation post mortum. . .

m16ty

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Well, the motor is going back in by itself, the tranny will go in from below.
Why? I have removed and installed several and I always do it with the engine and trans attached. Looks like it would be a whole lot more trouble to install them separately.

Edit: I went back and looked at the pics and see the winch is still in place. I've never installed a engine on a winch truck. You could be right about having to install them separately with the winch in place
 
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FMJ

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Why? I have removed and installed several and I always do it with the engine and trans attached. Looks like it would be a whole lot more trouble to install them separately.

Edit: I went back and looked at the pics and see the winch is still in place. I've never installed a engine on a winch truck. You could be right about having to install them separately with the winch in place
I am, it was a PITA getting it out with the winch in place. . .

Plus the clutch needed to be inspected. . .

And I have a very nice rig to set up to install and pull transmissions from these trucks.
 

G-Force

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just went back and looked at all of your pictures..........the reason......I was looking for the Bud bottle!!!!!!
It felt Iike it was a "Where's Waldo" book......:wink:
 

Keith_J

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Looks like a scuff on the crank journal. Can you determine if the scuff is pre or post rod bolt failure?

The rod bolts are only stressed by the momentum of the piston+rod masses. How does the #6 bore look?

Rod bolts are not torque to yield.
 

stumps

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Looks like a scuff on the crank journal. Can you determine if the scuff is pre or post rod bolt failure?

The rod bolts are only stressed by the momentum of the piston+rod masses. How does the #6 bore look?

Rod bolts are not torque to yield.
The scuff has marks going in the wrong direction. It must have been the result of the rod hitting the crank journal when it came around.

-Chuck
 

Nonotagain

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Looks like a scuff on the crank journal. Can you determine if the scuff is pre or post rod bolt failure?

The rod bolts are only stressed by the momentum of the piston+rod masses. How does the #6 bore look?

Rod bolts are not torque to yield.

If you look at picture 1 + 2 of this http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/44121-55mph-detonation.html#post492275 thread, you will see that the connecting rod appears to have made contact with something causing the lower portion of the rod to be bent.

I woould be interested in viewing the contact surface of the rod to see if the surface is roughened as in striking the side of the block or if it's smooth like it struck the crank journal.
 

Keith_J

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If you look at picture 1 + 2 of this http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/44121-55mph-detonation.html#post492275 thread, you will see that the connecting rod appears to have made contact with something causing the lower portion of the rod to be bent.

I woould be interested in viewing the contact surface of the rod to see if the surface is roughened as in striking the side of the block or if it's smooth like it struck the crank journal.
Although the bearing shells are missing, I see a scuff on the rod...:?:
 

FMJ

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I was looking for the tricycle
As requested. . .

Got the motor in and running, still need to install the trans, and PTO, winch driveshaft.

Both the fuel supply/return soft lines were leaking after installing the motor. Loosening them to remove the old motor and hooking them to the new motor caused them to leak from cracks in the hoses
 

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FMJ

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I noticed (after the motor was in) that the FDC was not bypassed on this motor. . . wondering if I should go ahead and do that or not? If the military saw fit to bypass them. . .
 

stumps

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I wouldn't bypass the FDC just for the sake of bypassing it. The test is super simple, remove the screws that hold the FDC to the IP, and turn on the electricity to make the in tank fuel pump work. If fuel drips from the shaft that leaves the FDC casting to control the movable stop, you need to replace the FDC. If not, use it, and check it again in a few years.

-Chuck
 
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