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yes, as has every other 'blown engine' thread as of late - you were either abusing it or running it at 15,000+ rpm. and if you prove that you didn't, well, then it must have been abused by 'Soldier A', because no one here will accept that the multifuel motor is anything less than the most reliable and bestest designed engine ever.... This turning into a "I told you so thread"
Apparently not.So I was all good at 55?. . .
LOL, well, I guess since I was driving it. . . .yes, as has every other 'blown engine' thread as of late - you were either abusing it or running it at 15,000+ rpm. and if you prove that you didn't, well, then it must have been abused by 'Soldier A', because no one here will accept that the multifuel motor is anything less than the most reliable and bestest designed engine ever.
yep, this was clearly your fault since it was in your possession.
It is pretty simple really....
After getting fuel in the crankcase oil, my multi started to develop a "knock" and very low oil pressure after the oil warms up, in the order of 5 to 10 psi.
Questions:
Can somebody elaborate in detail on what creates the mechanical "knock"?
A ring can only act as a seal. It is the clearance between the piston and the cylinder wall that prevents flopping around. The rings float in the piston's ring grooves.My 8x8 multi (LDS465-2) features pistons with a 5th ring near the skirt, in what way does that allow higher rpm, if not by itself, but how does it contribute, less flopping around?
The first number in SAE engine oil designations is the viscosity of the base oil used to make that particular grade of oil. The second number is the effective viscosity at 210F, and is due to the additive package used in making the oil product.In the case discussed in this thread, were there any, precursers or indicators, oil analysis result(s)?
In my case, the oil analysis results show an increase in wear metals as the oil pressure drops.
I have not managed my crankcase oil very well and am now paying for it. In contrast, the 8x8 oil has been changed twice since I brought it home and it hasn't been driven much at all. It also has a bypass filter installed, all to prevent the problems I'm having with the deuce.
I also read somewhere that straight 30W oil is equivalent to 20W50 oil, so we may need higher viscosity oil when using the multigrade oil.
That finding goes back a while, just did a search on Google and found this among other hits (from thunderpress.net):......
also, where did you read that 20w50 = 30W? because, by definition, 20w50 = 20W when cold + 50W when hot.
.......
It would certainly be worth doing, but I don't believe these rod problems have anything at all to do with the oil. I need to see a few bearing shells. I need to see some caps. They should tell more of the story.I'll tell you something I'm going to do different....This time we do oil analysis....Maybe this would have given me a heads-up to the eminent failure.
that reasoning did not work well when my friends allowed my generator trailer to burn to a crisp. At least you broke your own stuff instead of someone else breaking it for you.yep, this was clearly your fault since it was in your possession.
Chuck there is alot of Guys wanting to get to the bottom of this, me and FMJ especially. I don't plan on tearing the motor down real soon, this breakdown gives me an opportunity to do some refurbishing, painting, seals, tires, and other tasks that are put off during the parade/event season. However, and I've said this in another thrown rod thread, as soon as I tear into it, I'll have some real good photos and a narrative of what I find.
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