7th times the charm?

[tobyS]

Thing is, the dog bones are only 3 link, which really isn't bad. I suppose you could mix and match brackets to get a true four link.

But do we really need it? The Pete set up I did is basically a "truck arm" suspension and they work very well, so well that NASCAR still uses them today. The pan hard bar on this is twice as long as it needs to be.

Not being critical of your design. Just saying it appears a true four would be possible for your opinion.

The trunion (that is usually removed) has holes directly above the bottom link that would line up to make a single axle into a four link, making the outer upper axle mount (for the bone end) where the spring was. It would be a true four link and have exactly the same drive shaft geometry as the existing 3 link. Bobbing gets the extra bone.

 

[74M35A2]

So MRAP seats, first with some upgrades from Those Military Guys (if they respond to my PM) and then the rear brakes. I bent up some channel, will get that installed this weekend.

Front disk brakes will be once everything else is sorted.


Starting to collect parts for the real engine turn up, now that my timing matches current fuel.

Oh and DiscoBall.... I think thinking about one of these: http://dieselautopower.com/blog/p7100-incab-tuner/



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQOtLgnGfsg

You going P7100? That slides the fuel plate in the P7100 pump. Doesn't fit MW, but surely you know this. Even then, most people go full plate slide or no plate and then adjust EGT via throttle pedal. System above just seems way to circumvent via a label change.

 

[grendel]

.

 

[grendel]

My boys are wiring brushing and using POR 15 on the interior today. Before I left, I did a set of 5" seat rises by bending up some 3/16" plate, 2.5" web, 5" flange. Should be pretty robust and not require much air in the MRAP seats we're installing.

 

[grendel]

.

 

[grendel]

.

 

[grendel]

.

 

[Another Ahab]

Pulled this into the shop today. Yanking the injectors tomorrow to send off to become 400hp injectors. Bought a set of used stacks for this.

View attachment 647188

They will be powder coated black.

Thinking about a Donaldson 13" air cleaner for it... on the side of the cab.

That's 4" pipe isn't it!?

 

[grendel]

.

 

[Another Ahab]

That sure looks sweet.
I think "she" might have said THAT, too.

 

[grendel]

.

 

[Ford Mechanic]

What, no pic of the turbo!? Or insight on how you removed the injectors?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[grendel]

.

 

[Csm Davis]

turbo is on it's way, via USPS.

I used an injector puller and pry bar. Broke three of them. These are not o-ring sealed.

Turbo picture

View attachment 647891

So about what does one of those cost new I think it might be about what I want for mine. And do you think that ball bearing and water cooled center sections make a longer lasting setup?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[grendel]

.

 

[grendel]

.

 

[74M35A2]

The turbo bought above is not ball bearing. It is traditional floating sleeve bearing. Ceramic ball bearing turbos are really only 1/2 true, or at least they used to be, because they only use the ball bearing on the colder compressor side of the turbo. Hot side has always been floating sleeve.

Water cooled really only reduces oil coking on the bearings after shutdown on a gasoline engine since their EGT's run hotter.

There is a copper disc washer seal at the bottom of each injector where it seats into the injector well.

 

[Ford Mechanic]

So how did you get the broken injectors out?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[grendel]

.

 

[grendel]

.