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You should be reading about 27v at the batteries with the unit running. If you are reading 24v it for sure isn't charging.
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You should be reading about 27v at the batteries with the unit running. If you are reading 24v it for sure isn't charging.
You need to disconnect the positive cable and leave the negative on. Measure the resistance from positive cable(not battery terminal) to ground, then reverse the leads and see if that resistance changes.
A shorted diode in the alternator will read a low resistance in both directions. A good diode/s will read high in one direction and low in the other.
i just read this thread for the first time. If you do decide to test as Farmitall has suggested here, be very careful of what you do with that positive cable. You do not want to drop it into the gen set, or let it touch the gen set. Don't forget there are two batteries in the circuit, and you would have a real pretty light show it it were to happen.
Now i I have read this thread from start to finish. One piece of info that might help is what you start the set, right then, does the battery charging meter go up, and then go back down real fast? If so, that's a sign that the alternator is charging tha batteries, (the meter reads to the right) and when it brings the batteries up, it sinks back down to the left, but stays to the right of the red line. And then try it again later, but have the control panel open. Mesure at the ammeter shunt in the control panel. Then when you start, the charging voltage should go up to 27-28 volts. As the batteries take a charge, the voltage should sink, to 24-25 volts.
Out of time today will verify tomorrow and report back!! Thanks
According to the TM it's a 30a fuse.
A whole pack of them(usually 5 per pack of glass Buss fuses) will be cheaper than another run to the store if it blows again in the future. My philosophy is "two is one and one is none". More parts on hand is always beneficial to some extent.Thank you. I'm using the voice activated text. So it's interpreting my words for me. I'll stop and pick one up at the auto parts store on my way home, install it and see if I'm charging.
A whole pack of them(usually 5 per pack of glass Buss fuses) will be cheaper than another run to the store if it blows again in the future. My philosophy is "two is one and one is none". More parts on hand is always beneficial to some extent.
No need to be embarrassed, that's how we all learn. Glad you figured it out and I hope it resolves your problem.
30 amp 3AB ceramic fast blow, That's going to be from an electrical or electronics supplier. Ceramic fuses are unusual in the automotive world. Available from Mouser or DigiKey.Is this fuse available at auto parts or does it have to come out of electrical supplier.
Any 30 amp AGC type Buss fuse of the correct dimensions will work, as will any other 30 amp fuse in an appropriate holder. A fuse is a fuse and if a circuit is over loaded and going to blow a fuse, it will blow any fuse rated for the same current.Is this fuse available at auto parts or does it have to come out of electrical supplier.
30 amp 3AB ceramic fast blow, That's going to be from an electrical or electronics supplier. Ceramic fuses are unusual in the automotive world. Available from Mouser or DigiKey.
Now, I believe a 30 amp 3AG glass fuse would work just fine in this application. These are readily available and are the basic automotive ones. The ceramic ones are used for their ruggedness and are generally faster acting.
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