803a 24volt draw

[DieselAddict]

You should be reading about 27v at the batteries with the unit running. If you are reading 24v it for sure isn't charging.

 

[RJM27]

Out of time today will verify tomorrow and report back!! Thanks

You should be reading about 27v at the batteries with the unit running. If you are reading 24v it for sure isn't charging.

 

[Guyfang]

You need to disconnect the positive cable and leave the negative on. Measure the resistance from positive cable(not battery terminal) to ground, then reverse the leads and see if that resistance changes.

A shorted diode in the alternator will read a low resistance in both directions. A good diode/s will read high in one direction and low in the other.







i just read this thread for the first time. If you do decide to test as Farmitall has suggested here, be very careful of what you do with that positive cable. You do not want to drop it into the gen set, or let it touch the gen set. Don't forget there are two batteries in the circuit, and you would have a real pretty light show it it were to happen.

Now i I have read this thread from start to finish. One piece of info that might help is what you start the set, right then, does the battery charging meter go up, and then go back down real fast? If so, that's a sign that the alternator is charging tha batteries, (the meter reads to the right) and when it brings the batteries up, it sinks back down to the left, but stays to the right of the red line. And then try it again later, but have the control panel open. Mesure at the ammeter shunt in the control panel. Then when you start, the charging voltage should go up to 27-28 volts. As the batteries take a charge, the voltage should sink, to 24-25 volts.

 

[RJM27]

Batteries charged, start generator read 3.9mv on studs of meter control panel read 24.9 volts on slave port studs . Control panel meter stays in red 2 clicks left. Unit is 2011 letterkenny reset with 275 hrs. Everything thing else seems to operate fine not sure if alt was working before, new batteries in December???

Out of time today will verify tomorrow and report back!! Thanks

 

[DieselAddict]

Not charging and your amp meter sounds like its working. Need to check the charging system fuse (I'm at work and can look at the manual). If that is good you will need to test the alternator.

Edit:

Double check the wiring at the alternator. It is possible for it to be wrong.

Also good to check for continuity between the alternator and the charging fuse in the control panel.

 

[RJM27]

[headed into work will start trouble shooting hopefully soon! Will need plenty of advice!!! Thanks
QUOTE=DieselAddict;2112050]Not charging and your amp meter sounds like its working. Need to check the charging system fuse (I'm at work and can look at the manual). If that is good you will need to test the alternator.

Edit:

Double check the wiring at the alternator. It is possible for it to be wrong.

Also good to check for continuity between the alternator and the charging fuse in the control panel.[/QUOTE]

 

[RJM27]

Embarrassed, embarrassed, still embarrassed! I just checked fuse one and guess what there's no fuse in there . Headed in the work does anybody know the size of that fuse I'm not near the manual or anything like that. Would like to pick one up on my way home from work . As always thanks for the patients in the help

 

[DieselAddict]

According to the TM it's a 30a fuse.

 

[RJM27]

Thank you. I'm using the voice activated text. So it's interpreting my words for me. I'll stop and pick one up at the auto parts store on my way home, install it and see if I'm charging.

According to the TM it's a 30a fuse.

 

[Farmitall]

Thank you. I'm using the voice activated text. So it's interpreting my words for me. I'll stop and pick one up at the auto parts store on my way home, install it and see if I'm charging.

A whole pack of them(usually 5 per pack of glass Buss fuses) will be cheaper than another run to the store if it blows again in the future. My philosophy is "two is one and one is none". More parts on hand is always beneficial to some extent.

No need to be embarrassed, that's how we all learn. Glad you figured it out and I hope it resolves your problem.

 

[Zed254]

Battery Charger Fuse (FU1): F03A125V30A

http://www.talonix.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=11670

 

[Guyfang]

A whole pack of them(usually 5 per pack of glass Buss fuses) will be cheaper than another run to the store if it blows again in the future. My philosophy is "two is one and one is none". More parts on hand is always beneficial to some extent.

No need to be embarrassed, that's how we all learn. Glad you figured it out and I hope it resolves your problem.

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeell,


TM 9-6115-641-10

Troubleshooting Diagram. Page, (PDF reader) 84
SYMPTOM
BATTERY CHARGE ammeter shows low or no charge.
MALFUNCTION
Check BATTERY CHARGER FUSE.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
If BATTERY CHARGER FUSE (WP 0004, Figure 1) is blown, notify next higher maintenance level.


TM 9-6115-641-24

Troubleshooting Diagram Page, (PDF reader) 63
19. BATTERY CHARGE AMMETER SHOWS NO CHARGE WHEN BATTERIES ARE LOW OR DISCHARGED.
Step 1. Check for broken or loose fan belt, paragraph 2-75-1.
a. If fan belt is not broken and tension is correct, do Step 2.
b. If worn or broken, replace fan belt, paragraph 2-75. If loose, adjust fan belt, paragraph 2-75-4.
Step 2. Check for defective BATTERY CHARGER FUSE (FU1), paragraph 2-25-2.
a. If BATTERY CHARGER FUSE is not blown, do Step 3.
b. If defective, replace BATTERY CHARGER FUSE (FU1), (MT4), paragraph 2-25.

You all are way nicer then nasty old Chief. This is from the -10 TM, AND the -24 TM. Its the very first thing the troubleshooting diagram points you to look at. That's why in post 23 I tried to get you to think about the meter, and what it reads. When you have a fault, go to the troubleshooting guide! There are several levels of troubleshooting, so don't just look at the first and throw up your arms in disgust when it doesn't help you. Look farther. The TM's are written for folks that know little or nothing about the gen set. They will help you if you let them.

No need to be embarrassed, that's how we all learn. No you should not be embarrassed about not finding the missing fuse. Just not reading the books. But since its 6000 miles between us, no K.P. Just a few hours in the books will do. Ten Hut!

 

[RJM27]

Is this fuse available at auto parts or does it have to come out of electrical supplier.

 

[RJM27]

HOORAY found the correct fuse up and running and charging!!! Life is good! Will down load TM's PROMISE! Thanks to ALL for the patience and tolerance!!
Bob

 

[pjwest03]

Is this fuse available at auto parts or does it have to come out of electrical supplier.

30 amp 3AB ceramic fast blow, That's going to be from an electrical or electronics supplier. Ceramic fuses are unusual in the automotive world. Available from Mouser or DigiKey.

Now, I believe a 30 amp 3AG glass fuse would work just fine in this application. These are readily available and are the basic automotive ones. The ceramic ones are used for their ruggedness and are generally faster acting.

 

[Farmitall]

Is this fuse available at auto parts or does it have to come out of electrical supplier.

Any 30 amp AGC type Buss fuse of the correct dimensions will work, as will any other 30 amp fuse in an appropriate holder. A fuse is a fuse and if a circuit is over loaded and going to blow a fuse, it will blow any fuse rated for the same current.

The only other requirements on fuses is "explosion proof" types required in certain equipment in certain working environments by their governing codes. But for general circuit protection any 30 amp fuse that fits the holder will do.

Do not pay premium prices for exotic fuses, that is completely unnecessary in this application.

Glad you got it up and charging, another step in the right direction.

 

[RJM27]

Was able to locate them at my local Hardware/electric store! Thanks

30 amp 3AB ceramic fast blow, That's going to be from an electrical or electronics supplier. Ceramic fuses are unusual in the automotive world. Available from Mouser or DigiKey.

Now, I believe a 30 amp 3AG glass fuse would work just fine in this application. These are readily available and are the basic automotive ones. The ceramic ones are used for their ruggedness and are generally faster acting.