803A droop adjust screw?

[Waterhouse]

So my MEP 803 has always seemed to run fast. The minute I start it, it just roars away. The star wheel adjuster has no effect. I backed off the stop screw so I can adjust the star wheel more. Still no effect. The no load Hz is slightly higher than 60. I don’t suppose that is terrible, but I can’t adjust it down at all. I would like to test it with a serious load, but my AC interrupter won’t cooperate right now. (Another issue)

I have a good working 5 kw also. On it I can dial the Hz up and down with the star wheel easily. I pulled the gear cover to inspect the governor and found a screw that the TM calls a “droop adjust screw”. It has a access plug in the gear cover so you can adjust it from the outside. Of course I didn’t even know it was there until I pulled the cover. Now I’m wondering if that is what was out of adjustment. Have any of you played with that adjustment? It appears to change the leverage of a spring on the governor. The star wheel adjusts the other end of that spring.

I will probably have to put the whole thing back together to see if that is my culpret. Is there anything else I should be looking at in there?

 

[Light in the Dark]

The droop adjustment, in my opinion, isn't in play in this problem right now. Can you take a photo of the rotating plate on your engine, which the frequency adjustment cable ties to? Can you visually see this part rotate, when you move the star wheel up front back and forth... or does it stay still? Do the stop posts and nuts appear to have been adjusted?

The photo will help aid in this I think.

 

[Waterhouse]

The droop adjustment, in my opinion, isn't in play in this problem right now. Can you take a photo of the rotating plate on your engine, which the frequency adjustment cable ties to? Can you visually see this part rotate, when you move the star wheel up front back and forth... or does it stay still? Do the stop posts and nuts appear to have been adjusted?

The photo will help aid in this I think.

Yes, I can see this plate move with the wheel. In this pic, you can see the plate is as far as it can go. In fact, I moved the stop screw so I can move it further. It had no effect. You can see the droop screw in this pic on the left. Not sure if you can see that it is adjusted completely out to the camera. This is how I found it. I assume threading it in will decrease the spring pressure and allow the governor to slow the motor?

 

[nextalcupfan]

MEP-803a Seems to be loosing power

A couple things off the bat, I bought the set Nov 2019 and it's run pretty well with only a few minor issues (oil leak at the valve covers that wont go away for example). After I bought the set I replaced all fluids and filters including draining the diesel out of the day tank and adding it back...

www.steelsoldiers.com

Here is my thread on the droop adjustment screw.
Hopefully it helps you a bit.

 

[nextalcupfan]

Usually it seems if either the set won't shut down or the freq adj knob isn't working it has something to do with the rack.

Like the pump arms aren't seated properly, or they are turned to far twords "more fuel".

You haven't mentioned anything about the set not wanting to shut down so this is probably a long shot, but it may be worth looking into.

 

[Waterhouse]

Usually it seems if either the set won't shut down or the freq adj knob isn't working it has something to do with the rack.

Like the pump arms aren't seated properly, or they are turned to far twords "more fuel".

You haven't mentioned anything about the set not wanting to shut down so this is probably a long shot, but it may be worth looking into.

Yes, I have a shut down problem. On my 5KW, when I turn the switch to off, I would estimate it takes less than ten seconds to completely stop. On this 10 KW, when I first turn it off, it doesn’t even react for 10 seconds! It just keeps on roaring away. After a bit, it starts throttling back and finally shuts off.

I will check your thread.

 

[nextalcupfan]

Yes, I have a shut down problem. On my 5KW, when I turn the switch to off, I would estimate it takes less than ten seconds to completely stop. On this 10 KW, when I first turn it off, it doesn’t even react for 10 seconds! It just keeps on roaring away. After a bit, it starts throttling back and finally shuts off.

I will check your thread.

Sounds like the rack is sticking or the IP's aren't seated properly in the rack.

 

[Waterhouse]

Sounds like the rack is sticking or the IP's aren't seated properly in the rack.

When you say “rack is sticking”, what does that mean? I know there’s a rack inside that moves to control the injectors. It moves freely when at rest.

let me ask you this stupid question. If the volts read about 240 and the Hz is about 60, does that mean the motor is running the correct rpm? That would seem right, but mine is so loud, I sware it’s going to blow up. Also, my 5KW doesn’t make any smoke when it’s not under load. (It makes some when it’s loaded) This 10Kw makes pretty good smoke at no load. It fills my shop in no time with giant doors open. (Sitting right next to the doors) I haven’t tested a load yet. I finally got my AC interrupter to work, so I guess I can test it under load soon. This unit is a high time, so maybe it’s just worn out.

When I was testing yesterday, I inadvertently left the oil fill cap off and started the unit. It blew about a pint of oil out in just 30 seconds. Is that normal?

 

[nextalcupfan]

When you say “rack is sticking”, what does that mean? I know there’s a rack inside that moves to control the injectors. It moves freely when at rest.

let me ask you this stupid question. If the volts read about 240 and the Hz is about 60, does that mean the motor is running the correct rpm? That would seem right, but mine is so loud, I sware it’s going to blow up. Also, my 5KW doesn’t make any smoke when it’s not under load. (It makes some when it’s loaded) This 10Kw makes pretty good smoke at no load. It fills my shop in no time with giant doors open. (Sitting right next to the doors) I haven’t tested a load yet. I finally got my AC interrupter to work, so I guess I can test it under load soon. This unit is a high time, so maybe it’s just worn out.

When I was testing yesterday, I inadvertently left the oil fill cap off and started the unit. It blew about a pint of oil out in just 30 seconds. Is that normal?

Unfortunately someone who knows more than me is going to have to explain exactly how the rack and IP's work.

As for the blow by a very small amount of oil might come out, but not a ton.
A good Field check is take a piece of paper and put it on the oil fill, vacuum from the crankcase should hold it in place.

 

[nextalcupfan]

Here is a video of my unit running so you can get a comparison.

Any chance you can get a video showing the behavior of your unit? that would help alot i feel.

 

[Guyfang]

Please stop. Take a picture of the fuel cutoff solenoid when the set is running. Because from the picture above, something look "fishy". So start the set. Take the picture. shut it down. Also, before going any farther, look at the attachment.

 

[Waterhouse]

Here is a video of my unit running so you can get a comparison.

Any chance you can get a video showing the behavior of your unit? that would help alot i feel.

I watched that video. It seems like your machine runs more controlled than mine. I will try to make a video today. I would like to get it slightly out side the shop, but my pallet jack can’t go out the door. I also would like to put a load on it. I don’t got a good set up like you. I will need to hook it to my shop panel.

Please stop. Take a picture of the fuel cutoff solenoid when the set is running. Because from the picture above, something look "fishy". So start the set. Take the picture. shut it down. Also, before going any farther, look at the attachment.

That attachment looks like something I need to do. Thanks!

On the cut off, I was thinking I need to check if it is completely shutting off the second I switch it off. It seems to have a powerful spring, but maybe it’s hanging up.

 

[Waterhouse]

Ok, I put an elbow on the exhaust so the smoke goes outside. I tried to do the adjustments on that attachment. When I was adjusting one pump, I heard a snap like the pin just snapped in to the rack. I ended up pulling two injector pumps. I’m not sure if the pins were in the rack or not. I installed them back following the instructions as best I could.

I started the unit. It maybe my imagination, but it seemed to run better. The freq knob still does nothing. After running a minute or so I pointed a temp gun at the heads like nextelcup did. The two inside heads were about 360 and the two outside heads were 180. Hmmmmm

Does this mean only two cylinders are doing the work? The two outside cylinders are the two pumps I pulled. Could it take very long for the lines and pumps to prime?

My AC interrupter didn’t work again. Grrrrr. So I couldn’t put a load on it.

I checked the shut off selinoid and it does move the lever against the stop when I switch off the switch. The machine still ran for awhile after turning the switch off.

One of my return lines had a screw clamp on it. The others had those cheap “snap clamps”. So somebody has worked on this before. Im going back out after lunch.

 

[nextalcupfan]

Ok, I put an elbow on the exhaust so the smoke goes outside. I tried to do the adjustments on that attachment. When I was adjusting one pump, I heard a snap like the pin just snapped in to the rack. I ended up pulling two injector pumps. I’m not sure if the pins were in the rack or not. I installed them back following the instructions as best I could.

I started the unit. It maybe my imagination, but it seemed to run better. The freq knob still does nothing. After running a minute or so I pointed a temp gun at the heads like nextelcup did. The two inside heads were about 360 and the two outside heads were 180. Hmmmmm

Does this mean only two cylinders are doing the work? The two outside cylinders are the two pumps I pulled. Could it take very long for the lines and pumps to prime?

My AC interrupter didn’t work again. Grrrrr. So I couldn’t put a load on it.

I checked the shut off selinoid and it does move the lever against the stop when I switch off the switch. The machine still ran for awhile after turning the switch off.

One of my return lines had a screw clamp on it. The others had those cheap “snap clamps”. So somebody has worked on this before. Im going back out after lunch.

360 is way to high.
I think the highest I've ever seen is like 210-215 and that was after over an hour at full load.

My opinion is the center 2 pumps are stuck on "full fuel" and in order to try and maintain RPM the other 2 pumps are basically minimum.

I'd pull and check the center pumps.

 

[Waterhouse]

360 is way to high.
I think the highest I've ever seen is like 210-215 and that was after over an hour at full load.

My opinion is the center 2 pumps are stuck on "full fuel" and in order to try and maintain RPM the other 2 pumps are basically minimum.

I'd pull and check the center pumps.

Will do.

 

[Waterhouse]

So I pulled the center pumps and reinstalled them. No change. Now I’m swapping the two front pumps. (got to let it cool first.

 

[nextalcupfan]

Can you post pictures of the pumps and rack?

 

[Waterhouse]

Can you post pictures of the pumps and rack?

The rack is inside. Can’t take pic unless I tear it all apart.

So it appears the pumps maybe at fault. When I switched the two front pumps, the front cylinder got hot. I say appear because these pumps are so hard to install. You can’t really be sure if the swivel pin goes in the rack or not. Very stupid design. I’m getting pretty frustrated. I pulled and installed those pumps so many times my fingers are sore. I’m thinking of buying a snake camera that I can feed in the gear case to see if the pin is going in the rack. Either that or buy some new pumps. Not sure if they can be rebuilt.

Of course, the AC interrupter didn’t work all day yesterday. So I guess I need to go in there again. Not sure if there’s a way to lubracate that. I’m thinking it is just sticking.

 

[Guyfang]

Hook the MM up to K1-X & K1-Y. Close S5. Is the DS7 lit? Do you get 24 VDC. If DS7 is not lit and you get 24 volts, the K1 needs to be opened up and cleaned up, so it functions right. You need to concentrate on one problem, and fix it. Jumping around brings you nothing.

 

[Waterhouse]

This is an old thread I started and got so frustated that I quit working on the generator. I finally got back on it yesterday. I got a borescope camera and was able to confirm one of my injector pump pins was not in the rack. I installed three of them in the rack with the camera. The forth one I can’t be sure of because I have to have one pump out to insert the camera.

Anyways, I started it and it seems to run better. It’s the first time I ever made power. I only checked at the convenience plug, so that might not be good enough. When I closed the interrupt switch, I did get the light, so it might be working. I will be testing this further.

I still feel it is running too fast and can’t be dialed down. It also takes a long time to shut off unless I push the emergency stop. Can someone tell me what the emergency stop does that the Off switch doesn’t?