803A droop adjust screw?

[Ray70]

Either way, E- stop or S1, killing power to the fuel solenoid, causing its plunger to spring forward, pushing the rack forward rotating the metering pump pins to the fuel-off position is the ONLY way to shut it off.
With it running, watch what the solenoid does when you turn S1 off. it should immediately push forward and push the rack lever all the way counter clockwise.
Also, if you were to remove the arm between the lever and solenoid, rotating it by hand counter clockwise until it hits the stop, the engine should immediately shut off.
Your linkage could be binding, but still you should see no difference in performance between E- stop and S1 off, unless possibly a wiring problem with the 3 pin solenoid connector. IIRC it gets power from 2 locations, 1 while cranking and another while running. Perhaps there is a problem there, back feeding power when S1 is off, but not when the E-stop is hit.
Tell us what the solenoid does physically when s1 is turned off Vs. hitting the e-stop.

 

[Waterhouse]

Either way, E- stop or S1, killing power to the fuel solenoid, causing its plunger to spring forward, pushing the rack forward rotating the metering pump pins to the fuel-off position is the ONLY way to shut it off.
With it running, watch what the solenoid does when you turn S1 off. it should immediately push forward and push the rack lever all the way counter clockwise.
Also, if you were to remove the arm between the lever and solenoid, rotating it by hand counter clockwise until it hits the stop, the engine should immediately shut off.
Your linkage could be binding, but still you should see no difference in performance between E- stop and S1 off, unless possibly a wiring problem with the 3 pin solenoid connector. IIRC it gets power from 2 locations, 1 while cranking and another while running. Perhaps there is a problem there, back feeding power when S1 is off, but not when the E-stop is hit.
Tell us what the solenoid does physically when s1 is turned off Vs. hitting the e-stop.

Ok, I have confirmed the selinoid works in both cases. I just didn’t wait long enough when I turned the knob to off. That brings me to my next question. Why does my 5KW generator shut off almost immediately when I turn it to off and the 10kw runs for another minute?

 

[Ray70]

Ok, I have confirmed the selinoid works in both cases. I just didn’t wait long enough when I turned the knob to off. That brings me to my next question. Why does my 5KW generator shut off almost immediately when I turn it to off and the 10kw runs for another minute?

Because something is wrong with the 10K
Seriously, both should act identically. There should not be any delay and there should be no difference between an 802 and an 803.
Something electrically is wrong with your 803 if power doesn't disconnect and the solenoid extend out immediately when turning either S1 off or pressing the E-stop. They are "shut-off" switches, not "ramp down and slowly come to a turn off " switches ...

 

[Ray70]

The solenoid has 3 wires. A black common and 2 colored inputs, 1 from the cranking relay and the other from the malfunction indicator.
Take a look at the schematic and you can follow the wires.
Also below is a picture of the connector wiring at the FSS.
Pin 1 at the FSS should have power when the engine is running and power should disconnect immediately when you turn off the switch. ( I bet you will find residual power here even after the switch is off )
Pin 2 should have power only while you're cranking the engine, then disconnect as soon as you release S1 or the starter stops cranking because the engine has started.
Pin 3 ( black ) is the ground.

 

[kloppk]

.... Why does my 5KW generator shut off almost immediately when I turn it to off and the 10kw runs for another minute?

Does it continue to run at normal speed for the minute or it is running slowly and then finally stops?

 

[Light in the Dark]

The solenoid has 3 wires. A black common and 2 colored inputs, 1 from the cranking relay and the other from the malfunction indicator.
Take a look at the schematic and you can follow the wires.
Also below is a picture of the connector wiring at the FSS.
Pin 1 at the FSS should have power when the engine is running and power should disconnect immediately when you turn off the switch. ( I bet you will find residual power here even after the switch is off )
Pin 2 should have power only while you're cranking the engine, then disconnect as soon as you release S1 or the starter stops cranking because the engine has started.
Pin 3 ( black ) is the ground.
View attachment 920938

He could have a sticky IP or two as well, holding up the return movement.

 

[Waterhouse]

Does it continue to run at normal speed for the minute or it is running slowly and then finally stops?

First, to everyone, the selinoid slams forward (or back) the second you turn the switch to off by either means. So there’s nothing wrong with the selinoid or wiring to it.

Second, to answer the above quote, it runs normal for a maybe ten seconds, then maybe a little slower for another 20 seconds, then alittle rough for 20 seconds and then quits.

My 5 kw quits in less then ten seconds Completely.

 

[Guyfang]

Or a sticky linkage. The linkage should move freely. The linkage should move freely where the shouldered screw goes through it.

 

[Guyfang]

Make a film of the L5 when someone else turns the S1 to the off position.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I would unplug the FSS while running, and see if it shuts down in the same exact timed manner.

 

[Waterhouse]

Make a film of the L5 when someone else turns the S1 to the off position.

I’m assuming the S1 is the main control switch. What is the L5?

 

[Waterhouse]

I would unplug the FSS while running, and see if it shuts down in the same exact timed manner.

What is the FSS

 

[Guyfang]

I’m assuming the S1 is the main control switch. What is the L5?

Look on the gen set door. The schematic is there. L5 is easier to write than Fuel Shut Off Solenoid.

 

[Light in the Dark]

What is the FSS

Fuel Stop Solenoid

 

[Guyfang]

Or better known as L5.

 

[Ray70]

First, to everyone, the selinoid slams forward (or back) the second you turn the switch to off by either means. So there’s nothing wrong with the selinoid or wiring to it.

Second, to answer the above quote, it runs normal for a maybe ten seconds, then maybe a little slower for another 20 seconds, then alittle rough for 20 seconds and then quits.

My 5 kw quits in less then ten seconds Completely.

That's helpful information!
Previous posts kind of sounded like the solenoid action was delayed after turning off S1 but was the solenoid reacted immediately when hitting the E-stop.
You may have the metering pumps adjusted incorrectly.
Are all 4 sitting in the block with the fuel supply hoses touching the adjacent pushrod tube?
However this still wouldn't explain why it shuts off immediately from the E-stop but dies slowly when shutting off S1.

 

[Waterhouse]

That's helpful information!
Previous posts kind of sounded like the solenoid action was delayed after turning off S1 but was the solenoid reacted immediately when hitting the E-stop.
You may have the metering pumps adjusted incorrectly.
Are all 4 sitting in the block with the fuel supply hoses touching the adjacent pushrod tube?
However this still wouldn't explain why it shuts off immediately from the E-stop but dies slowly when shutting off S1.

I was mistaken when I said the E-stop was faster. What happened was I turned the switch off and it kept running, so I hit the E-stop and it shut down. I did this twice and it led me to believe it did something different. But on future shutdowns I found that if I hit the E-stop right away, it takes just as long to shut off.

Are the fuel hoses supposed to be touching the pushrod tubes? I’ve adjusted them several times and I’m sure I had them nearly touching. Can you tell me which way are they getting “richer”. (Clockwise or counter-clockwise)

 

[Light in the Dark]

You want them as close to the pushrod tubes as you can make them go... but uniformly across all cylinders.

 

[Ray70]

Once you have all 4 pumps oriented correctly test it again.
If you still have the same problem, loosen the jam nuts on the stop screw that the the shut off lever hits when the solenoid pushes it forward.
(If the screws are in the original setting they typically have red indicating compound on the threads)
Back the screw out about 1 turn and retest and see if there is an improvement.
Given the info now, I'd say 1 or more metering pump plungers is not turning quite far enough to completely shut off the fuel flow, allowing just a little fuel to still reach the injector(s)
Rotating the metering pumps counterclockwise and loosening the stop screw will both help ensure the pumps are in the full off position when the solenoid pushes out.

 

[kloppk]

Just a thought. You may want to remove the droop adjust plug and manually move the FSS from Run position to the Stop position and see if the end of the rack quickly moves all the way to the stop position (left) or if it slowly moves to the stop position due to a possibly sticky injection pump.