84 m1009 cucv chevy blazer build-up

[2INSANE]

This thread has upgraded from Awesome to TOTALLY SPECTACULAR! All you 6.5 and 6.2 gurus are gonna love this!! Stay tuned!

 

[2INSANE]

I am not going to bore you guys and gals with all my failed attempts to make this dual alternator serpentine belt system work without a/c and without the vacuum pump.

So to get started here’s what I did...

I used the 6.5 1996 Tensioner with bracket and alternator and put it on the passenger side of my 6.2.

Next I installed the OEM J code driver side alternator and bracket and removed the V-Belt Pulley...

Then I removed the pulley from a 1995 6.5 Alternator and installed that pulley backwards on the J Code alternator with the J code Alternator fan.

I checked alignment and see that a washer is needed between j code alternator and bracket.

And here is the final result! Everything aligns 100% perfect!


I have never read this method being done before. The only downside I see is that I will have to do some minor rewiring of the passenger side to match the 6.5 alternator. But here it is! It beats spending $200 for an incomplete bracket.

See link:

https://www.amer-grp.com/content/gm-10244209-dual-alternator-plate


This new method that I created will solve a lot of people’s problems! 6.2 and 6.5 alike!

Your welcome! And happy Halloween!

 

[2INSANE]

Time to hand out some candy!

 

[Rutjes]

I have never read this method being done before. The only downside I see is that I will have to do some minor rewiring of the passenger side to match the 6.5 alternator. But here it is! It beats spending $200 for an incomplete bracket.

Good work! Wish you figured it out a couple of days earlier though...

Last week I decided to go serpentine on mine. I'm having a bracket made. I came across the same bracket you linked, way too expensive! Figured the easiest and cheapest way to acquire one was finding an old Chevy ambulance scrapped for parts, but I couldn't find any. So, I made a mock up of the bracket using some cardboard and after a bit of drawing on the computer I sent a file off for cutting. I hope to have it here for test fitting next week.

If anyone is interested, let me know, I can have some more made. Shipping from the Netherlands for just a bracket isn't that expensive, the cutting isn't that expensive and I don't need to make a profit on them so it'll be way cheaper then the $200 one.

And thanks for your thoughts about Permatex sealants.

 

[2INSANE]

Good work! Wish you figured it out a couple of days earlier though...

Last week I decided to go serpentine on mine. I'm having a bracket made. I came across the same bracket you linked, way too expensive! Figured the easiest and cheapest way to acquire one was finding an old Chevy ambulance scrapped for parts, but I couldn't find any. So, I made a mock up of the bracket using some cardboard and after a bit of drawing on the computer I sent a file off for cutting. I hope to have it here for test fitting next week.

If anyone is interested, let me know, I can have some more made. Shipping from the Netherlands for just a bracket isn't that expensive, the cutting isn't that expensive and I don't need to make a profit on them so it'll be way cheaper then the $200 one.

And thanks for your thoughts about Permatex sealants.

Did you use the 6.5 steering pump or the 6.2 steering pump with serpentine pulley?

 

[Rutjes]

Did you use the 6.5 steering pump or the 6.2 steering pump with serpentine pulley?

Too be honest I haven't thought of that yet. Probably the 6.5 steering pump (with EVO bypass to make it work?).

As for the alternators, from what I've gathered it shouldn't be very difficult to convert them to isolated ground to make it work with the stock CUCV wiring.

AC pump to be replaced with a bypass pulley. OR, find a way to make the AC work on a CUCV...

 

[2INSANE]

Too be honest I haven't thought of that yet. Probably the 6.5 steering pump (with EVO bypass to make it work?).

As for the alternators, from what I've gathered it shouldn't be very difficult to convert them to isolated ground to make it work with the stock CUCV wiring.

AC pump to be replaced with a bypass pulley. OR, find a way to make the AC work on a CUCV...

I’ll test fit the 6.5 and 6.2 power steering pumps and let you know. I’m sure my 6.2 power steering pump will fit perfect with the serpentine pulley. I am thinking the 6.5 bracket might require the 6.5 power steering pump to align it. Will see in a few days. I have an overnight run at work today and tomorrow.

 

[2INSANE]

I mocked up the 6.5 powering steering pump and it does not fit without the 6.5 bracket.

I installed the hard injection lines.


I installed the return to fuel lines, lift pump hard line and bent them according to the Banks instructions.

 

[2INSANE]

Knowing the 6.5 powering steering does not fit. I knew it would not fit without the 6.5 bracket. It was just a mock up to show you all.

Anyhow, I installed the 6.2 powering steering pump from ORD (Off-road Design) and did a series of test fits with the different pulleys from the 6.5 parts. 6.5 Pulley part number #15589752 fit the best and aligned well with the rest of the serpentine pulleys.

 

[2INSANE]

I bought a new alternator for the passenger side. I tried 3 higher amp alternators but they were too big and hit the banks turbo casing. Ended up doing the 105 amp as it’s the best fit.

After running back and forth from the auto parts store about 6 times... I finally found the best fit Gates Serp Belt to fit my Newley created serpentine set up. Gates Belt #K060942-94 3/4” long.

I was able to make adjustments with the belts tightness by moving the 6.2 powering steering pump and 6.2 J code Alternator.

Here are a plethora of pictures with the belt on. You can see there is plenty of clearance between the Water Pump pulley and lower tensioner pulley. Also the 6.2 oil fill vent for the CDR hose comes close to hitting the tensioner pulley but there is just enough room.

More pics continued...

 

[2INSANE]

More pics...

 

[2INSANE]

After getting the kids ready for school, I took a nice long nap! Lol!

When I woke up, I cleaned the Garage and then installed the old used injector fuel return lines after cutting the ends to make them fit snug. They were special ordered years ago because they are heat resistant with fiber bradding on the outside.

Then I put 3 coats of copper spray on the down pipe flange and installed the down pipe according to banks instructions.

 

[2INSANE]

Next I ordered from Banks some missing parts from the kit.

Banks parts

Washers 91019
Exhaust stud 91504
Cross over gasket 93155
Rubber washers 91209
Air filter 41501
Water pump hose heat shield 26050
Downpipe gasket 93001
2 caps 92028
2 clamps 92878
Pyrometer Gauge kit
Boost Gauge kit

 

[2INSANE]

Then I temporarily installed a 6.5 oil cooler with lines and driver side exhaust crossover. (Waiting on parts for the Passenger side)

I found a fitting in the spare parts to block off the water crossover hole for the heater core hose.

I cleaned up the turbos top oil filler fittings and put optimum black on the threads and installed.

I removed the 6.5 water temperature sensor and went to Ace to get a fitting for the Phantom 2 Autometer gauge water temperature sensor. Installed.
Waiting on more parts to arrive.

The goal is to get the motor mostly dressed and ready to do some testing and start it up on the motor stand. The most important test is going to be the coolant pressure test. Then a compression test.

Finally another temperature test with a laser thermometer gun to see if the rear of the block actually gets hotter then the front. I imagine the rear of the block would get a little hotter then the front because of the design of the cooling system. This last test will bust any myths in regards to the rear getting hotter then the front. I would say if there is a 10 degree difference, there should be another upgrade in the future...

 

[Rutjes]

I have never read this method being done before. The only downside I see is that I will have to do some minor rewiring of the passenger side to match the 6.5 alternator. But here it is! It beats spending $200 for an incomplete bracket.

A $200 bracket for about $18. Template I made wasn't perfect, but close. I will be able to test fit it by Monday or Tuesday and finalize the design. Left a bit of meat around the 2 bolt holes where the alternator mounts, might have to grind some off.

 

[2INSANE]

View attachment 817502

A $200 bracket for about $18. Template I made wasn't perfect, but close. I will be able to test fit it by Monday or Tuesday and finalize the design. Left a bit of meat around the 2 bolt holes where the alternator mounts, might have to grind some off.

Sweet! Let me know when you are all done!

 

[2INSANE]

I took the injector lines off so it’s easier to clean up the intake holes. I’ll install the intake manifold after I do the coolant pressure test. I can not do the coolant pressure test until the thermostat shows up at the parts store. Hopefully tomorrow...

I deleted the glow plug sensor. I might put a coolant pressure gauge there. Have not decided yet.

Also got the starter on and wired it up with some extra wire I had laying around.


Got the IP wire ready.

Next I installed the oil dip stick with a new O-ring and some Ultra Blue to go the extra mile to prevent leaks since that is prone to leak.

 

[dougco1]

I took the injector lines off so it’s easier to clean up the intake holes. I’ll install the intake manifold after I do the coolant pressure test. I can not do the coolant pressure test until the thermostat shows up at the parts store. Hopefully tomorrow...

I deleted the glow plug sensor. I might put a coolant pressure gauge there. Have not decided yet.

Also got the starter on and wired it up with some extra wire I had laying around.


Got the IP wire ready.

Next I installed the oil dip stick with a new O-ring and some Ultra Blue to go the extra mile to prevent leaks since that is prone to leak.

What are your plans to control the operation of your glow plug system?

 

[2INSANE]

What are your plans to control the operation of your glow plug system?

I did a manual override push button switch years ago. Because of the override, it is to my understanding that I don’t need that sensor anymore?

I’ll tell ya a story. There was this one time in Moab... I met up with a random group of Jeep’s and Toyota’s. I did not know anyone of them personally. When I first joined the group on the trail, I was in the back of the group line as “that noob with the heavy Chevy”. My K5 M1009 dominated them all! By the time we got to the end of the trail, I was now the badass with the blazer and the group leader, first in line. The only embarrassing moment I had on that trail ride was when we stopped at an overlook for 30 minutes and the blazer had a hard start. I only needed 2 seconds of glow time but the stock sensor read the motor as still warm and would not turn the plugs on. It embarrassed me so bad I did the manual override with a flip toggle switch.

Then there was this other time I got so wasted with 2 girls. When we got to the Motel I accidentally hit the glow plug toggle flip switch with my knee when getting out of the Blazer. When party time was over in the morning, we checked out and the blazers 2 new yellow top Optima Batteries were fried, glow plugs melted in combustion chamber, resistor fried and relay was toasted. While things were getting hot inside the Motel that night, the Blazer got even hotter! Lol! That’s when I switched the glow plug toggle flip switch to a push button and deleted the 2 big resisters on the firewall. Ahh the memories!

 

[dougco1]

I did a manual override push button switch years ago. Because of the override, it is to my understanding that I don’t need that sensor anymore?

I’ll tell ya a story. There was this one time in Moab... I met up with a random group of Jeep’s and Toyota’s. I did not know anyone of them personally. When I first joined the group on the trail, I was in the back of the group line as “that noob with the heavy Chevy”. My K5 M1009 dominated them all! By the time we got to the end of the trail, I was now the badass with the blazer and the group leader, first in line. The only embarrassing moment I had on that trail ride was when we stopped at an overlook for 30 minutes and the blazer had a hard start. I only needed 2 seconds of glow time but the stock sensor read the motor as still warm and would not turn the plugs on. It embarrassed me so bad I did the manual override with a flip toggle switch.

Then there was this other time I got so wasted with 2 girls. When we got to the Motel I accidentally hit the glow plug toggle flip switch with my knee when getting out of the Blazer. When party time was over in the morning, we checked out and the blazers 2 new yellow top Optima Batteries were fried, glow plugs melted in combustion chamber, resistor fried and relay was toasted. While things were getting hot inside the Motel that night, the Blazer got even hotter! Lol! That’s when I switched the glow plug toggle flip switch to a push button and deleted the 2 big resisters on the firewall. Ahh the memories!

Nice stories; alcohol & 2 girls is always an interesting mix. But, I think I will keep my stock glow plug system as is; it gets my engine started just fine "without the alcohol".
Your build though is amazing and you know your s--t. Keep up the good work.