84 m1009 cucv chevy blazer build-up

[Sharecropper]

Next I wanted to tackle that dreadful oil plug above where the oil cooler lines go.

I tried everything! I torched it, PB blasted it, WD-40ed it, tapped it with the hammer, broke a few 1/4 adapters, let it soak with Wd and pb over a week... Still could not get it off...

So I said screw it! I drilled a hole all the way threw and hammered in my #5 bolt extractor. It worked!

With my smaller magnet, I probed the oil port and got all the shaving out. I also cleaned up all shavings from the block and oil cooler line nipples.

Nice work. I’m actually using that same port over the oil cooler lines as the pressure inlet from the 24-volt aircraft pre-oiler pump. Suction will be from the oil pan up through the pre-oiler then through a check valve and down to the port. -06AN hoses through the entire routing. I’ll post some photos if you are interested.

 

[2INSANE]

Nice work. I’m actually using that same port over the oil cooler lines as the pressure inlet from the 24-volt aircraft pre-oiler pump. Suction will be from the oil pan up through the pre-oiler then through a check valve and down to the port. -06AN hoses through the entire routing. I’ll post some photos if you are interested.

Sure! It is nice to see others ideas.

 

[Sharecropper]

Sorry for the delayed post. Here are photos of my custom-fabricated aircraft preoiler pump and its related piping. The P400 oil pan is heavy cast aluminum, so I welded a bung on the side for the suction fitting and -06AN hose. I then routed the hose around the rear of the head through custom brackets and up to the pump, which will be mounted on the firewall in the same location as the OEM fuel filter. I fabricated a mock-up of the firewall to temporarily mount the punp to make sure everything would clear. The pump draws oil from the pan and drives it through a check-valve, and then down to the port above the oil cooler lines. I had to fabricate all brackets here in my shop and added a piece of heater hose around the -06AN hose where it crosses the oil pressure gauge pipe. By the way, I extended this oil pressure gauge pipe upwards from behind the block to facilitate eay access after the engine has been installed. The pipe will accomodate the OEM idiot light sensor (already installed) as well as another AN hose to the mechanical oil pressure gauge in the cab.

 

[2INSANE]

Sorry for the delayed post. Here are photos of my custom-fabricated aircraft preoiler pump and its related piping. The P400 oil pan is heavy cast aluminum, so I welded a bung on the side for the suction fitting and -06AN hose. I then routed the hose around the rear of the head through custom brackets and up to the pump, which will be mounted on the firewall in the same location as the OEM fuel filter. I fabricated a mock-up of the firewall to temporarily mount the punp to make sure everything would clear. The pump draws oil from the pan and drives it through a check-valve, and then down to the port above the oil cooler lines. I had to fabricate all brackets here in my shop and added a piece of heater hose around the -06AN hose where it crosses the oil pressure gauge pipe. By the way, I extended this oil pressure gauge pipe upwards from behind the block to facilitate eay access after the engine has been installed. The pipe will accomodate the OEM idiot light sensor (already installed) as well as another AN hose to the mechanical oil pressure gauge in the cab.

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Hmm. Thanks for sharing!

 

[2INSANE]

For this experimental water pump upgrade, I would first like to talk about the PPE!

Must haves!

Leather Gloves (Prevents metal slivers in hands)
Air tight goggles (Prevents slivers going in eyes)
Respirator (Prevents breathing in metal particles and toxic gas from Carbide)
Cheap painters suit (Prevents metal shavings getting on clothes and head)


Now let’s talk about the pump! It is a 251-603 #19168609 For a 2000+ Gm. I call it experimental because there is less then a handful that have done this modification and only a few sites with info about it. Also, I have never done porting before and not sure if is going to work. So for me it’s totally experimental.

The source of information I gathered in regards to this upgrade is found here in these two sites:

https://www.65turbogarage.com/stop-65-overheating.html

https://www.dieselplace.com/threads/251-603-waterpump-porn.561466/


So I got lucky on eBay. These pumps usually go for $200+ but I found an old new stock one for only $100. It’s new but been sitting on a shelf for many many years. AKA old new stock! Lol! The impeller is about 4 1/4” and it has 6 blades. Instead of a bolt on pulley, it has a pressed pulley. From what I read, it pushes out 130 gpm just like the 97+ but it has a 50/50 balance unlike the 97+. Assumed and sounded good to me! Let’s try it!

The end of the cast seems a lot smoother where the big coolant/radiator hose connects. This smoothness will help prevent leaks compared to the Oem 80’s pump cast.

 

[2INSANE]

The first thing I did was stuff the pump with paper towels and bolted the pump plate on without gasket or rtv. This prevents shavings going into the pumps seals.

With the pump plate on, I used a black sharpie and marked the areas that needed to be ported.

Heres pictures with the plate off...

Next I went to Harbor Freight and picked up some carbides and a straight Die Grinder. For this job, I used this carbide.


With the plate still on, I ported the water pump.

Picture with plate off after porting...

 

[2INSANE]

Few more pics...

All cleaned up! Not bad for my first port job ehh? Yes I will be using a gasket and rtv between the pump and pump plate but no gasket for the timing cover.

And in this picture you will see the gap between the pump and the pump plate. The plate is bent a little. Because of this reason is why you would want to do the pump, pump plate and timing cover at the same time so there is zero possibility of leaks with the rtv curing.

 

[2INSANE]

After work I picked up the timing cover crank seal and put it in the freezer when I got back to the house.


Then I washed the timing cover in soap and water. Mainly focusing on the seal area.

After it was cleaned, I let it sit in hot water for 10 minutes.

Using the Wife’s favorite towel as a shock absorber on the kitchen table. Then I got a piece of wood from the scrap pile and pounded the seal in. Easy as pie!

 

[2INSANE]

You know when you are a pack rat when you have too many water pump gaskets... Lol!

What do you guys think? Felpro or Mahle?

 

[2INSANE]

Truth be told! I only spend 15-60 minutes a day working on the motor. That is why it is taking so long with the exception of waiting on parts.

I ordered a 9 blade Duramax fan and Hayden Fan Clutch.

Getting ready for my first day off for the week tomorrow, I wire brushed the pumps bolts and put the Ultra Blue in the house to keep it warm. The goal tomorrow is to get the timing plate, water pump plate, water pump, fluidamper, aluminum crank pulley and dual thermostat cross over installed.

 

[dougco1]

After work I picked up the timing cover crank seal and put it in the freezer when I got back to the house.


Then I washed the timing cover in soap and water. Mainly focusing on the seal area.

After it was cleaned, I let it sit in hot water for 10 minutes.

Using the Wife’s favorite towel as a shock absorber on the kitchen table. Then I got a piece of wood from the scrap pile and pounded the seal in. Easy as pie!

So what purpose do the rusty nails serve?

 

[2INSANE]

So what purpose do the rusty nails serve?

Lol! I put them there to keep the zombies away!

 

[2INSANE]

Test fitting the timing plate to the block. You can see a big gap between the oil pan and timing cover. I will need to put a gasket in that location.

Also there are only 4 bolts that require some rtv on the ends of them. Here is picture of 2 locations on timing cover. I put arrows on the block and timing cover.

A professional skill learned in kindergarten... Finger painting! I sure love to finger paint RTV! Especially when there is sooo much pitting on the block and plates.

I did a basic bead of rtv on the timing cover and extra on the bottom. Extra on the corners and added the gasket. Rubbed in the rtv with my fingers for the corners.

 

[2INSANE]

Using thread lock on all the bolts except the 4 that need RTV.


After the timing plate is installed, I decided to put in the injection pump.

Don’t forget the inner plate!

Injection pump is now on! So easy!

Now let’s do some more finger painting!


Add the gasket...

Finger paint the pump and plate.

Felpro added...


And since the other side of the gasket is lonely, let’s add an rtv friend...

 

[2INSANE]

I have used this method of finger painting many times! It is a very thin layer of RTV and has proven time and time and again that it works! I never had any leaks... Ever.
This method really helps fill in the imperfections and pitting. Some may disapprove but IDC.

When putting on the pump I put Optimum black on these 2 bolt holes to prevent leaks from the threads.

And Optimum Black on these two 13mm bolts under the water pump.

Torquing the top 13mm bolts to 21 foot pounds and 31 foot pounds on the rest.
She is on!

 

[2INSANE]

While mocking up the dual thermostat crossover I noticed a few things. If I turn the inlet passenger side, it will be in the way of the throttle position sensor. Turning driver side, even with a custom bracket made, I’ll lose the high idle solenoid. Honestly, I don’t want to lose those. I live in a cold State and really really don’t want to lose the high idle solenoid.

Also apon more research, it seems the 6.5 single thermostat crossover is the way to go because of coolant pressures and because the thermostat restricts the bypass so the custom made restricter will not be needed.

Sorry guys... I know some of you were wanting to see this upgrade but it’s just not going to work for me.

 

[2INSANE]

So I took off the 1995 6.5 Single Thermostat crossover from the other spare motors and removed the old gasket with a razor blade, wire wheel and brake cleaner. Also cleaned up the threads on the bypass fitting.

Then added a thin layer of RTV on both the cross over and block.

With the 6.5 cross over on with the new bypass hose, I also installed the oil filler. A flaw with the design, they always leak from the rubber seal. To solve that problem, I add Ultra Blue in the valley of the seal and a thin layer around the fitting on the oil filler.

 

[Rutjes]

Any particular reason for using Ultra Blue or will The Right Stuff and/or Ultra Black do fine? I found a Permatex dealer over here and after seeing lots of people using their products with success I bought The Right Stuff, Ultra Black and Copper Spray-a-gasket.

 

[2INSANE]

Any particular reason for using Ultra Blue or will The Right Stuff and/or Ultra Black do fine? I found a Permatex dealer over here and after seeing lots of people using their products with success I bought The Right Stuff, Ultra Black and Copper Spray-a-gasket.

I have not tried Ultra Black or the Right Stuff. When I pull motors apart with Ultra Black on I usually see leakage. The black stuff seems to have more elasticity to it. When Ultra Blue cures, it turns into more of a harder compound.

Also I notice it is a lot easier to remove parts off a motor with Ultra Black and easier to clean it up from the parts. Ultra blue seems to seal better because it’s harder to remove parts with that product which tells me it seals better. And Ultra blue is a pain in the azz to clean up as it turns into a fine powder with the wire wheel. Ultra black comes off in chunks with the wire wheel. Just things I notice with engine tare downs.

The copper spray a gasket is a damn good product for head gaskets and Exhaust.

I have had great success with Ultra Blue and have not needed to try other products because of the success. This is my first time using the Optimum Black on the threads of bolts/studs.

When the $46 thermostat shows up, I’ll do a pressure test on the coolant system and see if I need to take the motor apart again.

 

[2INSANE]

Spent a few minutes today on the motor. I got the fluidamper back on


I made sure the aluminum crank pulley aligned up with the water pump pulley before installing the crank bolt.


I went to the loco auto parts store and could not find the 4 bolts needed for the crank pulley so I drove to Ace and got some.

Crank pulley bolt installed...

Not much clearance but it works and the pulley lines right up!


Pulley installed... I put thread lock on the ends of the bolts. Torqued to 40 foot pounds.

I then mocked up the 1995 driver side tensioner, bracket and alternator.