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84 m1009 cucv chevy blazer build-up

2INSANE

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Wow that is almost stupid money! Clearly the pricing reflects government contract of fleet replacement when the checkbook doesnt have your name on it.

Call me crazy but if you want a Navistar V8 diesel a Ford or Schoolbus probably has a cheaper option

I guess if you are looking for a drop in replacement then you have no choice but to spend the money. I think there are better options then $14,500 plus shipping and labor to get a diesel in a GM.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
I agree. A p400 at that price is retarded. I would rather buy a Duramax for that price
 

2INSANE

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I am getting ready for the Optimizer so I took the 6.5 upper and lower plenum to the machine shop and had them cleaned up nice.

I bought a brand new GM8 made in China turbo for $284. It had great reviews and the seller sold many of them. The cheap price is worth the risk. Out of pocket cost after selling parts and motors $0.

Next I order from Quadstar a upper plenum and turbo oil drain kit. I have seen how restrictive the 6.5 upper plenum is after it was cut in 1/2. Also every 6.5 I had touched or seen always leaked from the turbo oil drain. Total cost for both shipped $380.27. My out of pocket cost after selling parts and motors $0.
 

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2INSANE

Well-known member
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Belgrade, Montana
More preparation for the Optimizer motor, I wire wheeled the gasket rtv off one of the spare 6.5 oil pans and took it into a welding shop to get a 1/8 NPT bung welded next to the oil drain so I can install my 1/8 NPT oil temperature sensor for my Phantom 2 gauge. $50 Then I took the oil pan to the machine shop to get jetted and cleaned up $20. I will do a fresh coat of black paint on it when I get more time. OOP cost $0
 

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Skinny

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I agree. A p400 at that price is retarded. I would rather buy a Duramax for that price
Uh... you can buy a Duramax with a truck attached to it for that kind of money.

Im thinking a forced induction Raylar 8.1 for the same money is the hot ticket. Cant polish a turd. This way you can haul and drag race. As long as there is a fuel stop along the way.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
 

2INSANE

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93
Location
Belgrade, Montana
The new made in China Gm8 turbo arrived. Looks great! Even has new gaskets.

What I find interesting is the gm Oem turbo downpipe flange is bent with a crease. I can see why egts tend to get higher on the GM model.
 

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2INSANE

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93
Location
Belgrade, Montana
Sold more parts and ordered Autometer 2 1/6” Pyrometer and Boost gauge. They are the Phantom 2 to match the gauges on the dash. There is no room on the dash so I will mount these over driver head on the LMC truck Headliner. It’s going to be sweet!

Where is the best place to drill the 1/2” NPT hole for the Pyro probe on the 6.5 Manifold?
 

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Rutjes

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The new made in China Gm8 turbo arrived. Looks great! Even has new gaskets.

What I find interesting is the gm Oem turbo downpipe flange is bent with a crease. I can see why egts tend to get higher on the GM model.
The OEM you are looking at is probably not a GM8, probably a GM3 or 4?. One of the improvements of the GM8 should be a smoother elbow. I picked up a GM8 a little while back because I couldn't leave it for the price the guy was asking. Thinking of swapping it with the GM4 just until I get the funds together for a HX40 or Super 60. Performance should be the same, but the smoother elbow supposedly does decrease back pressure and lower EGT's from what people are reporting on forums. Makes sense.
 

2INSANE

Well-known member
725
823
93
Location
Belgrade, Montana
The OEM you are looking at is probably not a GM8, probably a GM3 or 4?. One of the improvements of the GM8 should be a smoother elbow. I picked up a GM8 a little while back because I couldn't leave it for the price the guy was asking. Thinking of swapping it with the GM4 just until I get the funds together for a HX40 or Super 60. Performance should be the same, but the smoother elbow supposedly does decrease back pressure and lower EGT's from what people are reporting on forums. Makes sense.
Yes sir you are correct! The spare Oem one is a GM4. It is up for sale. Cheap! It is in good working order. I took the heat shield off to get a good picture of the elbow on it. I figured since I am getting a good clean Optimizer, it would be smart to get new stuff for it.
 

2INSANE

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Location
Belgrade, Montana
This was a great thread. Did he ever finish it? Be great to see the pics
This thread will never be done unless I die ;-) Here’s a few popsicle pictures for ya! Stay tuned! I am always changing my mind on things. Right now it’s dead set on this Optimizer!

He's still working on it. I just bought some parts from him! Awesome dude! Water pump, injectors, and an injection pump.
Thank you sir! Glad you like the parts!

Some parts arrived in the mail today for the Optimizer. Quad star upper plenum and quad star oil drain pipe. The motor should be shipped tomorrow unless the -30 degree weather stops that.
 

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2INSANE

Well-known member
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93
Location
Belgrade, Montana
I just drove 89 miles to Butte, Mt and picked up the Optimizer from YRC. On way home with it right now. The roads are crappy and it’s -11 degrees.

I might leave the motor covered in the back of the truck until it warms up a little before I take it out and put it on the motor stand.
 

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2INSANE

Well-known member
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93
Location
Belgrade, Montana
It finally warmed up enough for me to take the Optimizer out of the back of the truck. But before I do, I need to get the flex plate inspected and cleaned.

I took 2 flex plates to the local machine shop and had them cleaned in the jet machine and inspected to check the wobble and for cracks. Of the 2 flex plates, I choose the best one.

One of them was very bad with a lot of wobble and marks on the teeth and body. I threw that one in the scrap pile.

It is crucial to have a wobble free, crack free and good teeth flexplate. A bad one will give you starting problems and bad wobble can make the harmonics off and cause cracks or a broken crank in the motor.
 

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2INSANE

Well-known member
725
823
93
Location
Belgrade, Montana
Next I took the protective canvas and plastic off the Optimizer that is in the back of my truck and pulled it out with my Motor Puller. I did a quick inspection and so far so good.

A little trick I learned to get the heavy motor and Motor Puller to move where I want it to and move over ledges is to use a crowbar to help push it or lift an end of the Motor puller.

Before putting the Optimizer on the Motor Stand, first I need to install the good flexplate with the notched teeth toward motor. Also clean the bolts with a tooth brush and Simple Green in the kitchen sink.

Using a 17mm socket and Torque Wrench, I put blue thread lock on the bolts and torqued the flexplate to 65 ft pounds.
 

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2INSANE

Well-known member
725
823
93
Location
Belgrade, Montana
Getting the motor on the motor stand just right with the perfect size grade 8 nuts and bolts so the flex plate does not hit anything can be a PITA!

Here’s a few more pictures with the Optimizer on the motor stand and some casting numbers.

I put plastic over the motor until I get more time to put it all together.
 

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royalflush55

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Reydon, OK
Next I took the protective canvas and plastic off the Optimizer that is in the back of my truck and pulled it out with my Motor Puller. I did a quick inspection and so far so good.

A little trick I learned to get the heavy motor and Motor Puller to move where I want it to and move over ledges is to use a crowbar to help push it or lift an end of the Motor puller.

Before putting the Optimizer on the Motor Stand, first I need to install the good flexplate with the notched teeth toward motor. Also clean the bolts with a tooth brush and Simple Green in the kitchen sink.

Using a 17mm socket and Torque Wrench, I put blue thread lock on the bolts and torqued the flexplate to 65 ft pounds.
What is the purpose of putting flex plate on before mounting on stand?
 
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