84 m1009 cucv chevy blazer build-up

[Sharecropper]

Great advice! Thanks! I bought a Flow Kooler Water pump that rotates clockwise and is said to flow 110gpm with the 16 blades. I’ll post that up when I install it. Fan choice is minimal.

Yeah that’s the same Flow Koller I installed on my P400. I’m making the conversion to dual electric fans if I ever get around to finishing the dang thang. A regular fan/clutch won’t work on my engine now that I’m going to install a Bullet Supercharger.

 

[2INSANE]

Yeah that’s the same Flow Koller I installed on my P400. I’m making the conversion to dual electric fans if I ever get around to finishing the dang thang. A regular fan/clutch won’t work on my engine now that I’m going to install a Bullet Supercharger.

I did a shit ton of research online and read that there is a 1977 454 7 blade fan that would bolt right up with the clockwise rotation.

Could a HMMWV fan work that has the V-Belt?

Here’s link:

6.2 Fan Upgrade...

www.dieselplace.com

So you tried the cucv dual alternators with a 6.5 turbo installed and it fit great? I need to get to your build thread lol!

 

[Sharecropper]

I did a shit ton of research online and read that there is a 1977 454 7 blade fan that would bolt right up with the clockwise rotation.

Could a HMMWV fan work that has the V-Belt?

Here’s link:

6.2 Fan Upgrade...

www.dieselplace.com

So you tried the cucv dual alternators with a 6.5 turbo installed and it fit great? I need to get to your build thread lol!

No, I have not and do not plan on installing a turbo. The CUCV alternators bolted right up to my 6.5 P400. I plan to install a Bullet supercharger.

 

[Sharecropper]

Here’s a link to my thread about aligning the pulleys -

Squealing Belts - and How To Fix Them

I am currently finishing up the front end of my P400 engine, checking the alternators and power steering alignment, and it occurred to me that it might be helpful for some of our junior members to understand why belts squeal and wear out quicker than they should. And then explain what to do to...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[2INSANE]

Such a nice day today! I love having weekdays off work because all the businesses are open! Lol!

Got some stuff done today. I refurbished a 6.2 Water pump plate. First I scraped off all the old gasket and RTV with a razor blade, then used a wire wheel on my cordless to get the plate some what clean and bolt holes and then used the Roloc to fine clean it. I put it in the kitchen sink and washed it with Simple Green and scrubbed it with a Scotch pad. Dried it off and put 3 coats of gloss black on it.

While waiting between coats I refurbished all the water pump plate bolts with my wire wheel on the cordless.

 

[2INSANE]

I then ordered a boost gauge, pyrometer, wiring, probe and a mechanical turbo master boost controller from Kennedy Diesel.

 

[2INSANE]

The 6.5 Optimizer has quite a few oil port access locations. One is in the valley which I will not be using. I took off the rear oil port plug, put some Optimum Black RTV on the threads and relocated that plug in the valley oil port since it did not have a plug.

Using a new to me product to seal threads, I cleaned up and reinstalled the Phantom 2 Mechanical Oil Pressure Sensor and the 6.2 OEM Oil Pressure Sensor.

Afterward, I took off the oil pan and cleaned up the block where the oil pan mounts using a razor blade, wire brush and brakekleen on a paper towel. Remember I have a custom oil pan with a 1/8 npt bung welded so I can put the Oil Temperature Sensor on to get more accurate readings.


Just my luck again... The auto parts store did not have a oil pan gasket in stock... Back to the waiting game...

 

[2INSANE]

Just for reference. Here are 4 oil port locations on the 6.5 Optimizer.

 

[2INSANE]

When I purchased a plethora of 6.2 and 6.5 parts from a gentleman locally, I scored me a custom modified 6.5 Dual Thermostat Crossover that had its spout lengthened and a custom bracket for the throttle cable and high idle solenoid. I plan on attempting to use this in the near future if it fits with the set up I am going to run. Of course, I will get it cleaned up!

Also a sneak peak at the upper pentium and turbo oil drain tube

 

[2INSANE]

Today I got the modified oil pan on. With the motor upside down, I used Optimum Black RTV and a gasket to seal it. I also installed the Oil Temperature sensor on the oil pan.

With my second set of Injector rings, the first set I ordered did not fit, I put antisieze on the new injector threads and torqued them down to 50 foot pounds.

I cut the ends off a set of old injector return lines so they would seal better with the clamps, blew them out with compressed air and installed them as well.

Taking a chance with a used 4911 injection pump and injector lines to save some cash, I installed it on the Optimizer. Crossing my fingers...

 

[2INSANE]

I had some fitment issues with the intake manifold. The edges of the valve covers were in the way preventing the intake manifold from fitting snug against the gaskets. I ground down the lip on the valve covers with my carbide bit.

The Optimizer timing cover does not have a timing mark for the injection pump. I at first thought it was painted over, but after removing some of the paint it’s clear I will have to adjust the timing by ear once the motor is running.

 

[2INSANE]

It is water pump time! I noticed BMI did not clean out the valleys on the timing cover. A simple flathead and some scraping did the trick.

The water pump I choose to use is an upgraded 16 blade from Flow Kooler. It is said to flow about 115 GPM compared to the Oem 6.2 85-89 GMP. It was $177 shipped. They raised their price since the last time I bought one. I used the gasket they sent and added Blue RTV on both sides using my finger painting method. After I installed it, I put the fittings on the pump. Cap on the passenger side and 6.2 bypass nipple on the driver side.

 

[2INSANE]

Next up is the 6.2 water cross over, coolant temp sensor and heater core fitting nipple. I used some Blue RTV on the threads of the heater core fitting nipple and thread tape on the coolant temp sensor.

For the oil fill tube, I used a 6.5 because the 6.2 oil fill tube is not needed with the CDR being relocated to the air intake. To seal it, I put Optimum Black on the rubber seal. For now I will use the CUCV oil fill breather cap.

I also installed the 6.2 Motor puller bracket. I put thread lock on every bolt.

 

[2INSANE]

While working on the motor today, I took a quick parts run/break and test drove a 2004 Chevy Duramax Dually. I can not stop thinking about it! 165,000 miles and only $14,500.

It would be so nice to have this truck with a big camper and tow the M1009 to the trailheads.

 

[2INSANE]

Not forgetting the timing mark bracket...

Also got the Cucv J Code Dual Alternators installed. So far so good as far as figments go.

A quick mock up of the Quadstar upper plenum.

 

[2INSANE]

Well done for the day. I have to work this weekend and have some family coming to visit next weekend, so I do not know when I’ll get more time to work on this Optimizer. Stay tuned!

 

[2INSANE]

Along time ago I researched and researched for a 6.2 diesel fan upgrade. Well... there isn’t one... At least that I am aware of...

However there is a fan that is built for a 1977-1979 Pontiac 454 that bolts right up to a 6.2 Diesel fan clutch. They do not make them anymore either...

Here is the source of my information:

6.2 Fan Upgrade...

www.dieselplace.com

Well today I decided to hunt one down and got super super lucky with eBay! Yes I bought it! Score!

The fan is said to be a direct bolt on. 7 blades instead of 5 blades. The blades are wider and they stretch about the same as an OEM fan. 19 1/2”. Everyone that has done this has claimed it drastically increases air flow. Because of the additional blades and the fact that the blades are wider. I am super stoked!

When it arrives in the mail, I will get you more pictures and info on it.

I am thinking the fan upgrade, water pump upgrade and my bigger 4 core radiator should be enough to keep this optimizer cool. If not, I will try other options.

Today I spent a few minutes installing the water pump pulley bolts. I put lock tight on the bolts and double nutted them to get them tight.

I also installed a 6.5 oil dip stick since the 6.2 design does not work with the 6.5 Exhaust Manifold. I put a new rubber O-ring on the end of it and sealed it great with Optimum Black RTV since this is prone to leak oil. Besides, the 6.5 dip stick is in a much more convenient location then the 6.2 dip stick. I am happy with it.

I did not forget to put those little screws in that hold the injector lines to the 6.5 injection line brackets.

 

[2INSANE]

It finally warmed up and I have 3 days off work!

I installed an Oem 6.5 oil fill line for the turbo.

Then installed a 6.2 fuel return hard line and a used clear tube connecting the ip return to the hard line.

 

[2INSANE]

I cleaned up the water pump pulley in the sink and mounted it.

Compairing the 6.2 Oem 5 blade fan to the 1977-1979 Pontiac 454 7 blade fan, the new 6.2 fan clutch bolts right on! I washed the 7 blade in the sink and installed it just for a mock up.

 

[2INSANE]

I removed the new harmonic balancer and installed my Fluidamper.

Here is a real treat for you guys! Last year I scored a Dampened V-Belt Crank Pulley. They are super rare and are not made anymore. This one is still in like new shape. I cleaned it up in the kitchen sink from all the dust it accumulated from sitting over the years and I installed it on the Fluidamper. Compairing the Oem 6.2 V-Belt crank pulley, you can see how the 6.2 crank pulley gets a lot of mud stuck in it and makes the harmonics off. This Dampened V-belt crank pulley design helps prevent mud from getting stuck on it and it also helps dampen the harmonics with its 2 rubber seals. I think this mated with a Fluidamper is the number 1 best crank set up one could get for a 6.2 V-belt.