84 m1009 cucv chevy blazer build-up

[LT67]

I didn't look at the entire thread. Is this a 6.5 Optimizer?

 

[2INSANE]

I didn't look at the entire thread. Is this a 6.5 Optimizer?

This current motor is a 6.5 Optimizer yes sir!

 

[LT67]

I didn't look at the entire thread. Is this a 6.5 Optimizer

This current motor is a 6.5 Optimizer yes sir!

Thx.... I've got my eye on a 94 6.5 long block in good condition. Other than switching to an electric lift pump, I thought it was a straight bolt in and transfer all of my good accessories from my worn out 6.2 along with resetting the inj pump

 

[2INSANE]

I didn't look at the entire thread. Is this a 6.5 Optimizer

Thx.... I've got my eye on a 94 6.5 long block in good condition. Other than switching to an electric lift pump, I thought it was a straight bolt in and transfer all of my good accessories from my worn out 6.2 along with resetting the inj pump

you will need to take off a lot of the electronics and need a mechanical injection pump with electric lift pump yes. With bigger plungers 4911 pump will be good. I have a pump if u need one. $100 send pm if interested.

If 200,000+miles I would run away from it. 95% of any early 6.5 block with that many miles has cracks in heads and mains and crank usually blows because the harmonic balancer was not replaced every 50k.

 

[LT67]

you will need to take off a lot of the electronics and need a mechanical injection pump with electric lift pump yes. With bigger plungers 4911 pump will be good. I have a pump if u need one. $100 send pm if interested.

If 200,000+miles I would run away from it. 95% of any early 6.5 block with that many miles has cracks in heads and mains and crank usually blows because the harmonic balancer was not replaced every 50k.

Engine has 104K and still holds compression just fine. The #8 piston has hole in it, but otherwise that is an easy fix. Assuming the cylinder is not gored, it should be good to go. Just to be on the safe side the entire block and crank/bearings will be inspected beforehand.

My DB2 was rebuilt a few months and is good to go. I'm not going to use the turbo from the 6.5. It'll run naturally aspirated, so only a minor recalibration will be needed.

 

[2INSANE]

Engine has 104K and still holds compression just fine. The #8 piston has hole in it, but otherwise that is an easy fix. Assuming the cylinder is not gored, it should be good to go. Just to be on the safe side the entire block and crank/bearings will be inspected beforehand.

My DB2 was rebuilt a few months and is good to go. I'm not going to use the turbo from the 6.5. It'll run naturally aspirated, so only a minor recalibration will be needed.

if ur not gonna turbo it, then yes it is an easy swap. Sensors, intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, alternator and ps pump brackets, coolant cross over, water pump plate, water pump, vacuum pump, return lines will need to be exchanged from 6.2 to the 6.5.

Depends if ur gonna use V belt or serpentine?

I have 6.5 pistons if u need?

Honestly... If there is a hole in any piston, I would walk away from that idea super fast because it is a sign of overheating =Cracks.

 

[LT67]

if ur not gonna turbo it, then yes it is an easy swap. Sensors, intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, alternator and ps pump brackets, coolant cross over, water pump plate, water pump, vacuum pump, return lines will need to be exchanged from 6.2 to the 6.5.

Depends if ur gonna use V belt or serpentine?

I have 6.5 pistons if u need?

Honestly... If there is a hole in any piston, I would walk away from that idea super fast because it is a sign of overheating =Cracks.

Will use the existing V belt set up. It has a Vintage Air AC system lol

The # 8 piston hole is a common problem. Assuming there's no cracks, it's an easy piston swap.

**the 94 turbo set up requires several upgrades so the engine will last. And those upgrades are not cheap lol. Right now I just want the worn out 6.2 replaced with an engine that's good

 

[2INSANE]

Cost wise, it would be wayyyyy cheaper to just buy a nice 6.2 from BMI and swap over all the accessories from your old motor.

 

[2INSANE]

I purchased a Diamond Eye Exhaust Cross over that will need to be shortened and the down pipe is going to be a custom build 3” aluminized pipe. The down pipe is going to be fabricated out of 3 pieces. 1 90 degree, 1 45 degree and 1 upgraded 6.5 downpipe.

I did a lot of research and found these pictures that I am going to try and replicate. I will add heat wrap on the cross over and down pipe.

All the exhaust shops are booked out a month so more waiting...

 

[2INSANE]

The Optima Batteries I have are oversized so I relocated the windshield washer fluid reserve further back on the driver side. I had to remove the wiper motor for easier access.

The electronic lift pump I installed is a 4-7psi edelbrock model made for diesel trucks. I do not have it mounted yet and I am keeping all the passenger side electrical wires loose because I need to take the fender off soon for easier access for the exhaust shop to do the down pipe.

Temporarily, I installed a used 6.5 air filter box with a new air filter. I plan on getting a water tight air box to hook up to the snorkel.

Also here is a pic of the upgraded 7 blade fan installed.

 

[2INSANE]

My Daughter bought the M1009 a gift! It is called a Car Inclinometer Angle Slope Level Meter. I cleaned up a year worth of dust on the dash and installed it! It’s super cool!

The down pipe exhaust elbows arrived in the mail!

Pic of the FM100 fuel filter/fuel heater/water separator all hooked up with some gauges to monitor pressures and to notify me when the filter is getting ready to be replaced.

 

[2INSANE]

Side by side comparison of the Oem 6.5 Exhaust Crossover vs the Upgraded one.

I was disappointed with the Diamond Eye crossover because the flare flange on both sides had burrs that I had to grind off with a flap disk.

Installation was easy! There is less space between the motor, driveshaft and the cross over compared to the Oem crossover. The exhaust shop wanted it on to see how much will be need to shorten it.

 

[2INSANE]

Last night I installed the Pyrometer and Boost gauges over head on the LMC truck head liner. I ran the electrical down the pillar and wired them up behind the cluster.

 

[2INSANE]

Right now she is set at 7psi boost and it feels and sounds great going around the block! It turns a lot of heads!

I can tell the Th400 does not like the additional HP and Torque.

After the Downpipe and Exhaust is fully done in 1 1/2 weeks, I will up the boost to 10 psi max and take her on a nice long voyage and give full reports!

There are a few more add ons I want to do but can’t until the exhaust is complete.

 

[chevymike]

Last night I installed the Pyrometer and Boost gauges over head on the LMC truck head liner. I ran the electrical down the pillar and wired them up behind the cluster.

How well did that head liner work out? Been thinking about one of those as well.

 

[2INSANE]

How well did that head liner work out? Been thinking about one of those as well.

I have had it for a long time! I love it! It gets a lot of compliments! It was very easy to install. The speakers are like little tweeters and should not be hooked up to a normal Stereo because they can blow easily. However, the speakers work great for a CB radio! Very loud and clear! The center light is nice and now it holds the boost and pyro gauges! There is room for 2 more gauges if ever needed. It was worth every penny.

 

[chevymike]

I have had it for a long time! I love it! It gets a lot of compliments! It was very easy to install. The speakers are like little tweeters and should not be hooked up to a normal Stereo because they can blow easily. However, the speakers work great for a CB radio! Very loud and clear! The center light is nice and now it holds the boost and pyro gauges! There is room for 2 more gauges if ever needed. It was worth every penny.

Cool, thanks. Hey, looking at the last pic with the wiring down the A pillar, is the a DIY4x4 dash kit? If so, more pics and how do you like it and what issues did you run into, installing it?

 

[2INSANE]

Cool, thanks. Hey, looking at the last pic with the wiring down the A pillar, is the a DIY4x4 dash kit? If so, more pics and how do you like it and what issues did you run into, installing it?

Yes sir! It is a DY4X dash! Back in 2013 during my long haul trucking years I had purchased the dash, Phantom 2 gauges and paid a shop to install it. They said the hardest part was cutting out the old dash mount and doing the wiring. Back in 2013 it cost me $3,000 for all of it. I think it is the best interior upgrade one could get. No more cracked dash, plethora of switch and gauge options, custom engraved glove box door and powder coated black for easy clean up and to prevent the suns reflection going in your eyes. It also gave more room in the cab. I do not remember if I posted info and pictures here on SS. I am too lazy to go read back that far. I’ll post pics for ya when I am off work.

 

[2INSANE]

Pics of the Diy4x dash install/mock ups. 2013. You can see how much of the old dash mount has to be trimmed up.

 

[2INSANE]

More install/Mock up 2013 pics