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A/C Vacuum Source?

rtbcoop

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I am currently designing an A/C system for my truck and am looking at the Vintage Air Universal Vacuum Evaporator. I would like to use a vacuum controled system for relyability reasons (no dead electronics after fording). My questions is where can I pull a vacuum line from? Any suggestions? Thanks!
 

Warthog

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Diesel engines do not create a vacuum like a gasser. You either need a mechanical pump or an electric pump.
 
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Ford Mechanic

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Nope can't get one there either. The reason you get vacum out of a gasser is cause it has a throttle plate to restrict flow. You'd have to install a stand alone vacum pump, either electric or belt driven. I've not heard of a A/C system that used vacum???? Today's cars typically use a stand alone compressor.
 

Ford Mechanic

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The vacuam is used for thr air damper in the blowre box.
Id google 24 volt vacuam pump.
Are you talking about something like a blend door? Where it changes from hot to cold? If it's for something like that a F250-350 has a electric self regulating vacum pump that doesn't take much power to run and it provides enough vacum to run the plenum door actuators and the 4x4 lock hubs. They doo also use a vacum resoviour. But all this needs 12 volts so it's not helping you there. Or you could use cable driven doors.
 

rtbcoop

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The vacuum runs from the controls to the louvers. It's most common in older cars. A vacumm system means that you do not need any electronic servo motors/controllers which is my goal. I was thinking of a cable driven evaporator but I am not sure if anyone even makes them. Anyone have sources? Anyone know if you can use pressure instead of vacuum to control the evap? That way I could use the compressor. I'd rather not use a stand alone vacuum pump but I guess that would work if I had to.
 

chigger

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1) You will need a vacuum switch google search "f-4200 vacuum". Some are adjustable, some non-adjustable, and different fittings types for the switches. The vacuum switch is to turn the vacuum pump on/off. ~$30
2) Buy a standard automotive relay for turning vacuum pump on/off. Reason: the vacuum switches can't handle the current of the pump. ~$5
3) Buy a second hand electric vacuum pump from ebay. VW or Audi pump. You do not need the control module. (wire direct) ~$60
4) Buy a small check valve to go in between pump and vacuum system. ~$5
5) Optional: buy a vacuum accumulator from 80's chevy truck. AutoZone new ~$15
6) Buy hoses, reducers, adapters, wire, etc...

For 24v systems, you can pick 12v from the jumper cable between the batteries. Do not mount the vacuum pump to the sheet metal, fire wall, fender, etc. The noise will be out of control. Make a bracket to mount the pump to the frame or the motor. the accumulator looks like a plastic ball and will keep the pump from cycling constantly.
 

rtbcoop

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That's what I was looking to do since I couldn't find a better way to run a vacuum controlled AC unit. I found a Hurrican cable controlled AC unit that I am looking into now though. Anyone have any experience with these? Good/bad?
 

Ford Mechanic

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F250-350 has a electric self regulating vacum pump that doesn't take much power to run and it provides enough vacum to run the plenum door actuators and the 4x4 lock hubs. They doo also use a vacum resoviour. But all this needs 12 volts. .
1990-2006 or so I know for sure, mabey even more years than that.
 

Ford Mechanic

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Edenton, NC
1) You will need a vacuum switch google search "f-4200 vacuum". Some are adjustable, some non-adjustable, and different fittings types for the switches. The vacuum switch is to turn the vacuum pump on/off. ~$30
2) Buy a standard automotive relay for turning vacuum pump on/off. Reason: the vacuum switches can't handle the current of the pump. ~$5
3) Buy a second hand electric vacuum pump from ebay. VW or Audi pump. You do not need the control module. (wire direct) ~$60
4) Buy a small check valve to go in between pump and vacuum system. ~$5
5) Optional: buy a vacuum accumulator from 80's chevy truck. AutoZone new ~$15
6) Buy hoses, reducers, adapters, wire, etc...

For 24v systems, you can pick 12v from the jumper cable between the batteries. Do not mount the vacuum pump to the sheet metal, fire wall, fender, etc. The noise will be out of control. Make a bracket to mount the pump to the frame or the motor. the accumulator looks like a plastic ball and will keep the pump from cycling constantly.
Post #11 takes care of #1,2,and 3. Also includes a rubber insulated bracket. The noise is slight from these, you only hear them when engine off, hood open and working on it. Also very small and only 2 wires to hool up to it.
 

chigger

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Not a good idea.
It is a cheep way to do it. The pump only runs for a second or two at a time. Not enough to cause a problem. It could be wired from the 24v side too with the ground tied to the 12v side. The more expensive way is to use a voltage converter or battery equilizer.
 

steelandcanvas

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It is a cheep way to do it. The pump only runs for a second or two at a time. Not enough to cause a problem. It could be wired from the 24v side too with the ground tied to the 12v side. The more expensive way is to use a voltage converter or battery equilizer.
The way I see it, you're going to some labor and expense putting in vacuum controls for your AC, why go cheap now? Do it right, install a converter or equalizer. You can use the 12 VDC for other things down the road.
 

rtbcoop

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Tyndall AFB, FL
I'm doing a AC/heat combo system so that it fits where the factory heat goes. That's why I need the controls (and to switch feet/dash/defrost). I don't want to use a 12v AC system because that includes electric components. One river crossing and my whole system is toast. No one has any experience with the Hurricane systems?
 

rtbcoop

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Tyndall AFB, FL
Yeah that's the one I am looking at since it doesn't have electronics and doesn't require an added vacuum pump. I was just wondering if anyone has any good/bad experiences with it.
 
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