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Adventure Trailer Build

t0mills

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Arkansas
There seems to be a lot of interest in the models, so I thought I'd toss up an example of how the model gets transformed into an actual, useable, part.


This example is of a bumper that a friend and I are building for our landcruisers.

First thing you have to do, is take LOTS of measurements from the rear of that cruiser, and create an accurate model of the frame. You'll be building off of this frame model, so making sure that it's 100% accurate is very important. If it's not, you'll find out when you have the pieces waterjet cut/formed and welded together! :twisted:
If it doesn't fit, then you're model was not accurate, and you get to scrap all of that steel/waterjet cut time. With the high price of good quality steel sheets, and $150/hr waterjet cutting.... it doesn't take too many times before you learn to triple check all of those measurements!


Anyway, after you have the frame model complete (or whatever you're building off of), you can start to dream up designs/ideas for the part that you're actually wanting to make. That's where the countless hours come into play...
Just in this bumper design/model alone, I'd estimate 200-300+ hrs of my time. Once you cut/form the parts, you want them to come together like a puzzle. To do that, every little detail has to be thought through, and incorporated into the design.

Once you have your design finalized, you can then cut the pieces, and form them. I use a CNC waterjet and a CNC press brake to do the work. From the model, I'll create tool paths for the waterjet. This requires detailed knowledge of how the waterjet operates, so that you're not just creating parts that look good on paper but can't be manufactured. Same goes for the press brake. You have to know what each die set will actually bend (radius, material stretch, ect).


After all of that, and you have your parts in hand, you can start sticking everything together!



I've attached some pics (hopefully in order), to show the progress of that build.

Sorry about the thread-jack, but some people may find it interesting.
 

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t0mills

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Nice welds! What is the weight?
Looks great!

Thanks! My buddy can TIG weld better than anyone I've ever seen.

The weight on this bumper, fully loaded, is around 275#. Is it heavy? Yep. Didn't want light weight on these, as we're both running rear spring rates designed for carrying the weight.
 

t0mills

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Powder coat or paint?

Are you going to lift your Cruizer?


Powdercoat.

Both cruisers are lifted. The one that you see in those pics (LX450) belongs to my buddy. It's lifted 4" and sits on 35s.

My cruiser is the gray one you can see in the background of one of those pics. It's lifted 8" and sits on 325/85 Michelin XMLs.
 

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scrapdaddy

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Dittmer, Mo.
Very well built bumper and alot of good thought went into it. Good job!

I'm following along, on your trailer build. If it's anything like the swingout, then it will turn out great. I was going to copy, some of your ideas, but I can't even spell CNC, much less, run one.
 

t0mills

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Location
Arkansas
Very well built bumper and alot of good thought went into it. Good job!

I'm following along, on your trailer build. If it's anything like the swingout, then it will turn out great. I was going to copy, some of your ideas, but I can't even spell CNC, much less, run one.

Thanks! Feel free to use anything you like off of this build. If you need more details on a particular area, just let me know.
 

t0mills

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Arkansas
Ok, back to the trailer build.


I'd like to filter the air coming into the cabin. My idea is to just design my vents to accept standard off-the-shelf air filters that can be purchased locally.

Anyone have any thoughts/ideas on this? Is there maybe a filtration system that the military used on a trailer that I can research?
 

joshlt

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dallas, tx
find an A/C unit off a M1010 they were NBC rated I think and should work well for your application. They are 24 volt though.
 

t0mills

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Location
Arkansas
Ok, so I've calculated some numbers to come up with a ventilation design.


I'll have 207 cu ft. of airspace in my shelter. For an area of that size, the charts are saying that I'll need 882.5 cu ft./hr of ventilation, which is 14.7 CFM. I'll be going with at least 20 CFM for this build.

I'm going to use an Overpressure Valve in my design (where the air exits the cabin). This, essentially, creates a slight positive pressure inside the cabin. It also allows me to control the direction of airflow throughout the airtight cabin.
I'll place a HEPA filter at the air intake, which will keep the air inside nice and clean.


Overpressure valve info can be found here, if you're interested:

http://www.americanbombshelter.com/manuals/TM-50-OP-overpressure-valve.pdf
 
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t0mills

New member
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3
Location
Arkansas
Running flow simulations on my cabin design, trying to find good locations for the ventilation intake/exhaust.

Current configuration still leaves some dead airspace inside. The air conditioning evaporator has it's own blower, and will help to mix up the air inside, but I'll still come up with a more efficient solution for the intake/exhaust locations.
 

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M1031CMT

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Ontario
One suggestion would be to have a system which lets you keep the positive air pressure in the trailer while you are driving around. That way it should help keep dust from being blown inside.
 
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