All 5-tons: Heavy Duty Torque Rod Ends

[74M35A2]

Simp has had numerous of the ball joint type wear out early. He does run a lot of weight, so you be the judge. I did the retaining plate myself, and if you do it yourself is quite low cost. Access to large and mill makes it go quick and easy. I went full disc washers, and see no signs of running, even after being off-road. Rectangular plate would guarantee no contact. I like mechanical fastening, due to not wanting heating of the center when welding things onto them.

 

[8madjack]

Simp has had numerous of the ball joint type wear out early. He does run a lot of weight, so you be the judge. I did the retaining plate myself, and if you do it yourself is quite low cost. Access to large and mill makes it go quick and easy. I went full disc washers, and see no signs of running, even after being off-road. Rectangular plate would guarantee no contact. I like mechanical fastening, due to not wanting heating of the center when welding things onto them.

I watched his videos and posts on those ball joints wearing out and I also read your entire thread where you put the plate, and I put a plate on one of mine that's going out. (Posted in what have you done to your 5 ton)

The one with the rectangle already attached I assume was built like that before the rubber was attached by the look of it. Seeing as how I can get them for $80 at 6x6parts it seems like a no-brainer but I like double checking before I pull the trigger.

I like mechanical connections too, especially in an application like this where you could damage the rubber.

 

[Neophyte]

Felt a slight tug when accelerating, looked in driver side mirror, rear axle tire “poking out”.



I got real lucky.....the spring pack is still on the axle (barely), no torn lines (phew). I’ll lift it up and do a field repair....but now considering changing out all 6 dog bones. It’s a 925.......easier to pull bed and work from the top (for the top dog bones)....?

Thank you

Bob

 

[simp5782]

Felt a slight tug when accelerating, looked in driver side mirror, rear axle tire “poking out”.

View attachment 776419View attachment 776417

I got real lucky.....the spring pack is still on the axle (barely), no torn lines (phew). I’ll lift it up and do a field repair....but now considering changing out all 6 dog bones. It’s a 925.......easier to pull bed and work from the top (for the top dog bones)....?

Thank you

Bob

Nope. Wrench will fit between the spring pack and the frame to get the uppers loose and then you can work from sitting on the ground to get the bone off the axle clamp. On normal cargo trucks its pretty easy. The wrecker suspensions are the pain

 

[74M35A2]

Agreed. I did all 6 rods on the ground with nothing removed or jacked up. Went fine. Don’t make it more work than it needs to be. The cotter pins may not cooperate. I just turned the nut right through them to shear em’ off. All 12 went fine this way.

 

[Neophyte]

Thanks gents. I’ll lift her up, pound the torque rod back on, get it on a flat surface.....and call Erik.

 

[74M35A2]

If you are unable to get it back on, which could be the case, I have successfully used two of the wider commercial type ratchet straps to act as the control arms instead to get the truck home after a link end disconnect. One around the axle housing pulling tightly in each direction, forward and rear, and she drove home pretty darn well. I even went faster than I should have, but she did great.

 

[Neophyte]

Got the dog bone back on! Used a farm jack to lift the spring pack......then used a Bobcat to push the tire in.....while pulling with a John Deere tractor from the front (long strap). I tried using a come along initially....not enough pulling power.



I greased up the rubber on the insert along with the steel mounting post.....then used a large C clamp to pull them together. I cut a steel 5” disc, 1/2” thick.....and added the “Steel Soldier Keeper plate”.....thank you to you guys!!!! Great idea, excellent advice.

Bob

 

[vvwilkins]

Very interested in how these ball-joint style torque rod ends manage axle wheel hop. The rubber bushings appear to provide some active damping. Do the ball joint style provide some type of damping? My M923A2 exhibits extreme axle hop while hill climbing and subtle wheel hop on highway above 50mph. But then, my torque rod ends are completely shot...Looking to replace all 12 asap.

 

[simp5782]

14.00s bounce. so do 1600s. 395s do not. Especially the excess bounce on the front tandem axle. its just something with the tires

 

[Mos68x]

If you have wheel hop, it is most likely caused by lack of balance in the wheel. When I bought my truck it had 14.00s on it and I added about half a gallon of anti-freeze to each tire to balance the wheel after driving from AL to MS with slight hopping. I never had any issues with wheel hop after I added the anti-freeze. Looking back I would not do that again, although as a temporary fix it is just fine, it is just a mess to clean up. I now have 395s and don’t have any hop...as long as I don’t have mud packed in the rims lol, but I would like to get some air soft BBs to throw inside the tires to deal with any little bit that is there and at least that won’t be a mess to clean up in the future when I have to change tires again.

 

[74M35A2]

I’d recommend 12 new stock type ends with retainer plates installed. Easy to do before installing.

 

[Jbulach]

I’ve never experienced hwy bounce with 14’s, unless your talking about the whole truck bounce when hitting bumps? Off road, hop while climbing or pulling is typical...

 

[Brutacus]

If you replace your torque rod bushings, get the ones with the safety bar. They only cost a few dollars more than the bushings without the safety bar. You'll need a 2-1/4" wrench too.

 

[74M35A2]

If you replace your torque rod bushings, get the ones with the safety bar. They only cost a few dollars more than the bushings without the safety bar. You'll need a 2-1/4" wrench too.

View attachment 792511
View attachment 792512

Safety Dance

 

[Glenngineer]

All my bushings are good ,but I wanted safety bars so this is what I did for $60 using 2.5 inch flat washers lots of water /air and short welds.Not the best looking welds ,very awkward to get a good position .Got all twelve ends done this way .

 

[74M35A2]

Something is better than nothing.

 

[Ajax MD]

Nope. Wrench will fit between the spring pack and the frame to get the uppers loose and then you can work from sitting on the ground to get the bone off the axle clamp. On normal cargo trucks its pretty easy. The wrecker suspensions are the pain

Wes, the wrench will fit but how do you get enough torque on it to break the nut free? I feel like there's no way human strength will budge these after years of being tight.

 

[simp5782]

Wes, the wrench will fit but how do you get enough torque on it to break the nut free? I feel like there's no way human strength will budge these after years of being tight.

I use a hammer on the wrench or I use a long chisel and use it against the notches in the castle nut to get it moving

 

[74M35A2]

Wes, the wrench will fit but how do you get enough torque on it to break the nut free? I feel like there's no way human strength will budge these after years of being tight.

I just put a fabric tow strap on mine and pulled it with a pickup. Was gravy, went perfect. Smooth, controlled, and done.